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cvincent

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Everything posted by cvincent

  1. Same. Don’t even case gauge. When I had hundreds and hundreds of rounds that didn’t pass the case gauge, then all but 1 worked in the gun, which had a visual defect. Stopped gauging. When I load mags at a match I’ll spin the round in the feed lips and look for defects. If none, it’s gtg.
  2. I’m kinda liking the 20 moa circle only on the 507 comp.
  3. I tried a few minor loads with 180s. Didn’t like the feel of it. I use 140gr acme at 126 ish PF. Shot out of a 2011, so dropped the recoil spring and hammer spring down. So much better than 180s at similar PF.
  4. I broke one when I first got it, while using the Swage-it. Never again since. 4 or 5 years ago maybe. But don’t use that swager anymore either. I Have replaced springs, the black case inserter thing, the case drop lever thing, primer wheel arm. Small stuff. Some of its processing brass. But close to 100,000 cycles on it for sure.
  5. The biggest thing is to get the press, and feeders running 100% before adding autodrive. Otherwise it will make the issues worse it seems. Then you may have to tweak it once automated. Keeping everything clean and lubed helps a lot. I’m on a mark7/650. Works amazingly. The machines integrated clutch sensors stop it, when there’s an issue. Just have to keep it as low as possible. Bullet senser stops from having a bin full of empty cases and powder everywhere. I made a primer wheel not rotating “sensor”. If I have a stoppage from the primer wheel from advancing, don’t have primerless ammo. Never any squibs or double charges. Pretty unlikely on a functioning 650 without user error. It’ll run .40 on 1200 rounds per hour forever. 9mm takes more effort to resize, so if I get a case with not enough lube it may stop the machine due to excessive force required to size it. Also have it setup to process .223 and 300blk. Brass. Convert 223 to 300blk brass. And load both of those. tweaking required for sure, especially when setting up new calibers. But when it’s set, it’s pretty much good to go. It does seem to wear out parts quicker. Springs mostly.
  6. I don’t believe it will be a major issue.
  7. So, build quality seems pretty good. The torch holder has so much movement, you can position it anywhere really. But with the hose attached, it causes movement in the torch easily. Really have to crank down the wing nuts so it doesn’t move. Positioning on short cases is a little tricky, while trying not to melt the orings on the bottom wheel. I’m using it for 6mmBR. The prep station tools have a wobble, they don’t spin true. The wheel has a screw that activates the drop chute, with a tab on the chute. At low speeds this tab would stop the wheel from turning, because the chute hit its end stop. I had to file down the screw till it no longer maxed out the travel of the chute. That’s the worst part of the machine. Feel like that’s an important detail that was overlooked. After all that, ran 30 cases through and ran good. So far, I think I would buy it again. But I have no other annealing machine experience. So…
  8. No, but I have been looking at it for a week now and I just ordered one. Reviews everywhere seem good. I’ll let you know, when it shows up and set it up.
  9. I use this with the recommended router and the boring bar instead of the endmill. https://fastandfriendlybrass.com/product/honey-badger-trimmer-adapter/ https://fastandfriendlybrass.com/product/honey-badger-boring-bar-two-carbide-inserts/ dillion carbide trim dies. Use it on a mark 7 with a 650. You’ll need a short trim toolhead for 300blk. Also if converting 223 to 300blk in one stage all on the press, I would have a lot brass chip build up in the vacuum manifold and the vacuum hose. Ended up plumbing pvc pipe instead of the flexible vacuum hose. Less clogging. The boring bar helps to break up the chips, as an endmill seemed to produce long “strings” of brass that clogged everything up worse. If you can’t clear the chips from the cutting process the router overheats, clogs the die, trips circuit breakers, etc. clogging may be not as much an issue if your not automated, ie. slower feed rate. But I don’t know. Just trimming to length is not an issue. Very little brass shavings, obviously.
  10. According to my notes (haven’t loaded it in awhile) but my data is 11.2 grains 1680, at 2.089 oal. Avg velocity of 991. 220 grain coated lead bullet. Used to be leatherhead, now gallant bullets. Maybe double check your seating die. Doubt you are compressing the powder of your putting 11 ish grains in there.
  11. Interesting.. all I’ve used so far is the leatherhead, before “gallant” coated bullets. With 1680 out of an 8” barrel, can plink USPSA head boxes at 200 with an Eotech, prone, all day. Just copied a load found in the interwebs, 10-11gr or so, not sure off the top of my head. No issues at all.
  12. Curious for any responses. I’ve been using coated lead with good results with 1680. Just got some berrys for free, haven’t loaded any though. Hope they work.
  13. I made the CR Speed versa pouches work. Remove the stock belt attachment and put one of those pronged t nuts on the back of the ELS fork(don’t think I had to drill the fork, but can’t remember) star lock washers between the fork and pouch. Rotate to your desired location and tighten it up. Works pretty good.
  14. The M die is really the way to go. You can try more flare with whatever you’re using right now.
  15. A few thou. Oversized is not uncommon for a coated lead bullet. It’s pretty typical. Are you using a M die, to expand and flare the case mouth?
  16. As far as I can tell just the rails. It’s based on gen 3. I used a gen 4 barrel ,trigger assembly, and all the slide parts had them laying around. Everything else was gen 3. Used a Brownells branded slide.
  17. I just built one a few weeks ago. You have to drill the holes straight, need a drill press or something to keep the drill 90 degrees to the frame or you will fight the pins. The rear rails don’t fit. I had to fit it to the frame, kinda a PIA. The whole thing had to drop lower in the frame to align with the pin hole. Had to piece out the lower parts kit, because no one had a kit in stock. Only have about 200 rounds through so far, but no malfunctions yet. Something is binding when I try to put the slide assembly on, not sure what it is yet, takes some wiggling and cussing to get it on, but once on, it’s fine. I would build another one. Actually I have another one, for a rainy day. Polymer 80 frames.
  18. https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=33_34&products_id=322 I bought it from ammo bot. It works good. It won’t detect the small steps cases though. Only the large steps like maxxtech (sp?)
  19. It did. The new one also measured .003” larger than mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Cupcakes for ants? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Same, i was getting shaved bullets all the sudden after tens of thousands of flawless rounds. The new funnel measured .003” larger than the one I wore out, and the lip was gone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. How’s the bullet tamping compared to the DAA from the bullet dropper? Nice and tight? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Hmmmm interesting. I’ll have to try one. Thanks for the post. I’m on my second DAA funnel, wore out the first one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Yeah, gotta keep the bullet on the case when indexing. I mean, it was more work than setting up 9mm, but less work than 300AAC. Search in the reloading forums. Many topics on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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