Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

trigger pull when switching to a glock


MetropolisLake

Recommended Posts

Got fairly good with a 1911 but I pulled back while flexing all my finger joints. I hit a coyote at 50 yards and was confident in doing so, so it seems to be all good. I'm not very good with a glock though. Noticed that if I dry fired with the same pull, when the striker dropped the gun would jerk to the right a little. Then I noticed that if I used the pad of my finger and didn't flex that last joint as much and pull back straighter that it would stay on target better. Is this a good or bad habit and what else might I try? The jerking isn't a lot but I'm used to being able to dry fire a 1911 or an fnx-40 and it not budge so its aggravating.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the way you are pressing the trigger is resulting in less movement of the gun and is a methodology that is repeatable, then the answer to your question is: YES. Do what works for you! What you described makes perfect sense considering the geometry of a 1911 trigger compared to the geometry of a Glock trigger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am also trying out a Glock from shooting mostly Springfield XD and 1911, and in addition to getting used to the grip angle, the trigger is certainly very different. For me at least, shooting slow fire is fine, but when I start getting up to speed the longer trigger pull is causing me to push shots low if I don't concentrate on a smooth trigger pull. Had a string in last weeks match where we were shooting a line of simulated 8" plates indoors. I had a lovely string of perfectly centered shots which were all about 2" below the targets at 18 yards or so.

I just try to focus on the most fundamental basic of shooting, that being the ability to pull the trigger without disturbing the sights. Whatever method does this for you the most effectively certainly makes sense to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got fairly good with a 1911 but I pulled back while flexing all my finger joints. I hit a coyote at 50 yards and was confident in doing so, so it seems to be all good. I'm not very good with a glock though. Noticed that if I dry fired with the same pull, when the striker dropped the gun would jerk to the right a little. Then I noticed that if I used the pad of my finger and didn't flex that last joint as much and pull back straighter that it would stay on target better. Is this a good or bad habit and what else might I try? The jerking isn't a lot but I'm used to being able to dry fire a 1911 or an fnx-40 and it not budge so its aggravating.

IMHO, the raised safety bar lever on the Glock trigger is best handled by using the pad of the trigger finger. Trying to use the joint of the trigger finger produces inconsistent pressure on the trigger bar that prevents it from moving smoothly, and can cause jerking, flinching, heeling the gun, or a pre-ignition push downward.

With the pad of the trigger finger you get a more consistent straight back trigger pull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of the experts here some time back posted the trade secrets about fixing up a Glock trigger including changing the pivot hole in the trigger. I did it to mine and it does make the trigger a lot better.

That said, I still don't like the Glock trigger so don't expect miracles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I had the same problem with my Glock after the smooth trigger pull of my 1911, and I was told, by an instructor, to bottom out the first trigger pull (smoothly) and keep it bottomed out and when you are ready for your second shot, barely let the trigger out until you feel the reset and then pull off the 2nd shot...in not releasing the trigger all the way out after the first round, the 2nd, 3rd, 4th shots were tighter groups than I have ever shot....

Best advice I ever had on mastering the Glock triggers...now I love my Glock again..

My problem was releasing the trigger all the way out after my shots and that was yanking the gun...now it is steady as a rock

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If this is a range/competition gun check out the Zev Fulcrum trigger. My wife and I both run them in our 34's. Huge improvement over stock. With the Glock be sure you are doing a short reset for your follow up shot(s). After the first shot breaks slowly release the trigger until you feel a click. Once you feel that click you are ready to shoot again. It reduces the trigger travel on second shots by 1/2-2/3's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I first shot my Glock, all my shots pulled left. I knew I jerked the gun when I pulled the trigger. I was having a hard time with the 5.5lb trigger so I changed to competition springs and a 3.5lb connector to lighten the trigger. This helped me a lot and made me shoot straight, However, I soon used my Glock for IPSC Production and the minimum trigger pull for the division was 5lbs so I had to change back to stock springs. A strong grip and lots of dry fire was very important for me to shoot with stock springs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no secret answer. Lots of good advice already. Practice shooting off a rest, two hands. Then work on strong hand and weak hand. Learn what type of trigger pull you need to fire and accurate shot. I agree with not letting the trigger out all the way, but just enough that the sear resets. Dry fire alot as well. The only thing I will add that was not mentioned is to grip the gun firm. A firm grip will counter any sideways movement your trigger finger is causing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you can set an empty case just behind you're front site and break a dry fire shot without moving the case then rock on. my finger placement won't work for you and yours won't work for me.

this drill helps me a lot

highly recommend this type of drill

I sometimes do it by placing a coin on the front sight instead of a casing behind the front sight, I think it makes it a little tougher

Edited by polymerfeelsweirdman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems like with some striker fired guns it doesn't matter how still you are, just the vibration from the striker being released will make the front sight kick a little. Even when i'd put the gun on the counter and pull the trigger i'd still see the front sight pop a little.

Try to lighten up the pull on your Glock a little. Either make or get a trigger housing that you can adjust the pre/over travel. You can get the travel pretty limited. i noticed when i took out the over travel the front sight pretty much stopped moving during dry fire. just an idea. With the right work the Glock trigger can be improved a lot.

Edited by G17
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I had this problem with my G34. Everyone i would talk about it to were Glock fan biyz and would say I didnt know how to pull a trigger. But there was almost no way to not have that side to side movement when the striker released. I polished, I did all sorts of things…Finally I bought a Vanek Trigger and that was all it took. No more movement. Its still a glock trigger haha but I can keep the sights perfect in dry fire.

I could never tell if it was the trigger spring causing that movement or what….Vanek re drilled where the trigger spring fits into the trigger bar and that has a huge impact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a Glock. I shoot and love them but come on, it's still a Glock. You can get it somewhat close to a decent 1911 trigger but not a nice 1911 SAO. And if you bring the striker spring weight down too much you pretty much limit what primers you are reliably popping. Focus on the basics and dry fire. A lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really like Glocks and I can shoot them very well, but I get the best results when I try to shoot with a 'rolling trigger', when I try to find a point where the trigger breaks it just doesn't work, because that break point is mushy and not very consistent.

But if you can manage the Glock trigger it's a very fine gun, accuracy itself is not a problem.

BTW, I shoot a Gen4 34 with a Wolff reduced power striker spring and a ZEV v4 connector and that is a quite nice setup, but the trigger is not nearly as nice as my tweaked CZ.

Edited by pevadijk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

It seems like with some striker fired guns it doesn't matter how still you are, just the vibration from the striker being released will make the front sight kick a little. Even when i'd put the gun on the counter and pull the trigger i'd still see the front sight pop a little.

Try to lighten up the pull on your Glock a little. Either make or get a trigger housing that you can adjust the pre/over travel. You can get the travel pretty limited. i noticed when i took out the over travel the front sight pretty much stopped moving during dry fire. just an idea. With the right work the Glock trigger can be improved a lot.

Just as an update, after dry firing a blue million times, I found that even without a trigger job if I used the tip of my finger instead of being well onto the pad, movement pretty much ceases. It still vibrates but it doesn't violently whip to the side like it was. I guess I'm supposed to be shooting like this anyway but I will have to train myself to do so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an update, after dry firing a blue million times, I found that even without a trigger job if I used the tip of my finger instead of being well onto the pad, movement pretty much ceases. It still vibrates but it doesn't violently whip to the side like it was. I guess I'm supposed to be shooting like this anyway but I will have to train myself to do so.

This is what i found works best for me as well, problem is, not very comfortable after a while and i'm still not very accurate with glocks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I started shooting Glocks, my shots were always 2-3 inches right (Im lefty). I knew it was me. I played with the trigger finger postion, tip versus the pad etc.. More finger on the trigger helped a bit. The real breakthrough was when I taught myself to press straight to the rear without slowing down or staging the trigger. I think I got into the habit of being too deliberate with my trigger pull, thinking smoother would mean more accurate. With a 1911, you can be as deliberate as you want since the trigger is in a track and is not really affected by how fast the trigger goes back, but how smoothly.

Now, I press the trigger straight back in one continious motion. Dont slow down or try to stage the trigger. Prep and press in one continious motion. You may surprise yourself that you can pull the trigger pretty fast and more accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...