G17

So what's it have for a rear sight? Still the stock? I think the biggest thing is practice and getting use to it. The Glock 19 was my first glock and i shot way better with it in the beginning then with my 17. Once i put the time in with the 17 i far exceeded what i could do with the 19. Realistically your guns capable up pretty small groups at 25. Just keep shootin'.

Just go shoot what you have at the moment so you know. I highly doubt you're going to shoot your hand off. It sounds like your getting the hang of things anyway, have a little confidence. How many rounds do you have loaded up that you feel pass the chamber test.

Read it, tried it, the bullet didn't seat any deeper. I flaired the mouth, seated the bullet and pushed it in until it was even with the top of the barrel, but when I go to remove the bullet, it either pulls it back out to the original depth or something else because I don't get any different of a reading OAL wise when I do this. Thanks for the link though, very informative. The article said nothing about flairing the mouth. All you wanted was a piece of unsized brass that would firmly grip the bullet but still let it slide through. You may have to test multiple unsized brass to get the one that will do this. It needs to fit snug because as you slowly push the back of the headstamp into the chamber it's pushing the bullet into the case, then when the case finally bottoms out in the chamber if you slowly back it out with your fingers wherever that bullet is minus maybe .015 would be your max OAL. If the mouth was flaired when you tried to do what the article said i'm not sure how the bullet would stay still for you to get an accurate reading. Anyway, it sounds as if you got things working, so regardless congrats. Hope everything keeps going smooth for ya.

As i mentioned the first thing you should be doing is determine what the max oal for that barrel and bullet is. Once you determine that you can rule out whether your oal is too long or it's a problem with the case. I think it's a problem with the case. Again, here is the link http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.msg189131#msg189131 Do this, and get back to us with what you find.

I don't see why not. It sounds like they could possibly be a little harder to set off though. Not sure what your set ups like. I have been using Rem 1.5's in my 9major loads and i dont see any issues at all. It's all i could find at the time so i bought them. I found a new reloading shop so i'll probably switch. Once again, they'll probably be ok but maybe just by 1k to start off and see how you like them.

I don't know if you visited my thread that is a few down entitled "need help with 115gr MG JHPS". A member posted this link and when i did as instructed i then realise my issue had nothing to do with oal. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.msg189131#msg189131 The reason my cases were getting stuck in the chamber, and when i mean stuck i mean i literally had to get a screwdriver to pry it out because just pinching with my fingers wasn't working, was a combo of my sizing not going down enough and not a proper crimp. I'm crimping at .375 and all seems to be good now. Initially i kept loaded my projectile shorter and shorter because i thought the oal was too long, but when i followed the steps in that link i realised that it had nothing to do with the oal.

Are you sure the OAL is the problem. I had this same issue recently, as i am a new reloader also. It was the case it'self getting stuck in the chamber, it didn't have anything to do with the oal. I kept thinking i had to load shorter and shorter and in all reality it was the case itself. Besides lets say the oal is way to long and the bullet is hitting the rifling, it's not going to cause the case to get stuck in the chamber like that. Make sure your sizing all the way down. What are you measuring your crimp at? Maybe paint a case with a black sharpie and stick it in there. Might give you a better idea whats holding it up.

My digital is pretty good about holding a zero, but sometimes it will drift off. I'll reset it and it will still drift off. I tried to research the problem and someone recommended spraying a bit of windex on a towel and lightly wiping the scale down. (maybe something do with static electricity or something, idk, not quite sure) Anyways i found it immediately worked. Anytime it starts to drift i wipe it down and my scale is good to go for the rest of my session. It's kind of funny because i was at publix getting groceries and the lady ringing me up was having trouble getting the scale to weight my blueberries. She pulled some windex out sprayed it down and it was good to go. So i guess there must be something to it. After reading all of this i'm very excited to get a powder measure and get away from the digi.

Excellent response, thank you.

Yah, i believe you guys. I'm really looking forward to being able to use a powder measure and speed things up. I understand that that its more then acceptable for what i need it for. Was just curious what everyone had to say. This thread isn't meant to be a debate between the two or anything. Obviously the powder measure is the preferred method.

Who in this thread blamed the powder measure for anything? I'm pretty sure i blamed my digi scale for not holding a zero though..

Forgive me if this question sounds silly. I'v only been reloading for a short time now, and i'v done it all on a single stage press. I have a lyman digital scale that only weighs one decibel place over. ex (0.0). I know there are some more expensive ones that will go two decibel places over (0.00). Basically, i feel like i'v gotten the hang of things and no longer wish to dump an excessive amount of time into reloading like what is required with a single stage press. I'm going to either order a Hornady LNL or a Dillon 550. I know very little about the powder measures they use and how they work other then they use some type of a disk system. My question is how accurate would one of those powder measures be as opposed to weighing each charge out on a scale. Are the powder measures pretty easy to set up and operate? Do they have much of a variance? Just a few question that have been in my head and was hoping to have a better idea of what to expect when i get my press. I'm so ready to be done with weighing each individual charge out on this scale, spraying windex on it to try and get it to hold a zero. Anyway, thanks in advance for any input. 0Chris

Sell or trade it for a gen 3/4 Glock 17.

I'm sure there are quite a few places who do it but the only one i can think of off hand is Glockworx. https://www.glockworx.com/products.aspx?CAT=3720

10lb wolf spring in a Glock 17 7.4gr WAC, 124 PD JHP, REM 1.5's. 1.150 I have 11 and 12lb springs which i'v tried alternating. 10 Definitely feels the best and ejection is much better.

You sound like a badass dude Rapidrob, welcome.

What the gentlemen above me said. Another option and one i prefer are the Dawson adjustables.

If i had unlimited funds and were looking to set up a limited Glock to my liking this is personally what i would do.. Gen 3 G35 or possibly the 24 Dawson serrated black adjustable rear w/ fiber optic front KKM barrel Zev Heavy brass magwell w/ the large brass insert "DK custom trigger" from glockcustomtriggers.com Stainless Steel guide rod Take off the fingers grooves and wrap in griptape Dawson or TTI ext basepads

I like the black, personally

That's pretty cool. You need more pistol calibers though.

I personally wouldn't invest money into fixing that. Just buy a new one.

Just out of curiosity, what happens if you accidently try to fire a bullet that is too long and into the rifling? Will it still fire properly and the issue will be with how it feeds and ejects? Edit: after thinking about it for a sec, it probably won't be able to chamber properly and have the slide close all the way, right?

Ya, i think 1.160 is about the max, i'm just trying to give myself a little room. I'm loading them at 1.155 now and all is well.

Guys i'm sorry for wasting your time, im a dumb@ass. When i was doing the plunk test i wasn't using the crimp die yet. I figured the bullet seating die would crimp it enough that it wouldn't matter. Then i started measuring it and realised it was way too wide. Once i ran them through my lee crimp die and crimped to .375ish they all passed the plunk test. I did gain some valuable knowledge from that link and determine max oal though and i am very happy about that. I took an a bullet and found an unsized spent case that would accept it snuggly yet still allow it to go in. I then did like the illustration said and pushed it into the chamber slowly then when it stopped i took a measurement. It maxes out at 1.15(85). It said back off .15 so bullet is not touching rifling. I pushed the bullet in just a tad and measured and i'm getting 1.15(30). It drops and spins freely, thats where my bullet seater is set. I just made up 20 rounds at that OAL which i feel very confident with. They all fit the mags/ chamber up, i racked them all through the gun, everything looks good! I'm pretty happy with this because last night it was frustrating the heck out of it. I had to just walk away, lol. Thanks again guys

I resized and used the powder thru/expander die. Could it possibly have to do with my case flare? It seems like they're just enough flare to except the bullet so..idk. Everything looks good. It seems like at 1.085-1.090 they're consistently passing the plunk test. But anything over then that and it gets weird. I'll have shorter bullets hitting the rifling and longer bullets passing. It makes it hard to get a consistent OAL.