AznDragon533 Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Hello, Just wondering what is everyone's opinion on the best parts to make the ultimate 1911 trigger for competition? My plan so far is to get the following parts below and then send to a gunsmith for a trigger job, goal is ~2lb. -1911 40 S&W - 14lb recoil spring and a 17lb mainspring - EGW Hard sear - EGW Long disconnector - Colt sear spring - Doug Koenig 1911 Low Mass Hammer - SVI Trigger Bow - Single Stack - SVI Trigger Insert - Medium Flat Suggestions? Comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Those parts are all excellent. Extreme eng parts are good as well as Infinity. As long as they are set up correctly you will have a great trigger for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 I would only request the trigger bow assembly you want, any g'smith worth his salt knows what parts he wants to use to produce the best work. That is what you pay him for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 If you have a Series 80 safety, throw it all in the trash and get the little plate from Brownells to fill the space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openmike Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I just did one with a Harrison Design True Radius Kit with an SVI trigger. Really high quality! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I would only request the trigger bow assembly you want, any g'smith worth his salt knows what parts he wants to use to produce the best work. That is what you pay him for. this. smiths will have their own favorites to work with and its best to let them use what they like instead of forcing something on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes777 Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Hello, Just wondering what is everyone's opinion on the best parts to make the ultimate 1911 trigger for competition? My plan so far is to get the following parts below and then send to a gunsmith for a trigger job, goal is ~2lb. -1911 40 S&W - 14lb recoil spring and a 17lb mainspring - EGW Hard sear - EGW Long disconnector - Colt sear spring - Doug Koenig 1911 Low Mass Hammer - SVI Trigger Bow - Single Stack - SVI Trigger Insert - Medium Flat Suggestions? Comments? If you are going to send it to someone, call them and order what they want to use. Better yet, send them the money, they get the parts at cost, increase their profit margin, make your $$ do the work. FYI, for the cost of a gunsmith trigger job you could get all of the tools/jigs you would need to create similar results on your own, depending on skill level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Use a Nowlin sear spring rather than a Colt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAZZ Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) I use the same parts in all of my race guns, bar stock is the way to go, SVI and EGW go in my guns. Instead of 14lb recoil I use 12.5lb Edited August 26, 2013 by FAZZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogiebb Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) Hello, Just wondering what is everyone's opinion on the best parts to make the ultimate 1911 trigger for competition? My plan so far is to get the following parts below and then send to a gunsmith for a trigger job, goal is ~2lb. -1911 40 S&W - 14lb recoil spring and a 17lb mainspring - EGW Hard sear - EGW Long disconnector - Colt sear spring - Doug Koenig 1911 Low Mass Hammer - SVI Trigger Bow - Single Stack - SVI Trigger Insert - Medium Flat Suggestions? Comments? i have the same exact set up as yours except i use a Top Curve insert... i have mine set at 1.5lbs and very crisp have shot almost 2k and still ok.. i do check my trigger once in a while to maintain that pull and make it last Edited August 26, 2013 by ogiebb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtuns Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I put a stock Les Baer hammer and sear and a 22lb. hamer spring and ended up with 3.5lb trigger Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I recommend Infinity or EGW. I have an SV gun (my build from back when they sold frames) with all SV tri-glide parts that has 1.5 lb. trigger and is 100% reliable after 50k+ rounds. And it is a nice crisp trigger, not mush (gun has a 23 lb. mainspring and SV ti sear spring). As was stated, finding a good gunsmith is a major part of the equation. But you also need quality parts if you expect it to last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paopao Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I used ed brown internals and doug hammer. Crisp 1.5# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jriera Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Don't forget an extra long firing pin and to use Wolf or ISMI springs. Get a Dawson sear spring. If a gunsmith is going to do it, let him know what you want and let him/her put the parts he/she likes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slide4949 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I got a infinity ignition kit for my SV open gun and the sear spring is not bent to a 90 degree angle where it goes into the slot in grip. Instead it's bent about 70 degrees and sticks up to for to get the mainspring housing on. How is these supposed to work? Can you bend spring steel without it breaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 On 3/2/2018 at 2:22 PM, Slide4949 said: I got a infinity ignition kit for my SV open gun and the sear spring is not bent to a 90 degree angle where it goes into the slot in grip. Instead it's bent about 70 degrees and sticks up to for to get the mainspring housing on. How is these supposed to work? Can you bend spring steel without it breaking? My experience is that if you try to bend it it will crack. I don't use the ti springs any more, but when I did, I would grind down the tab until it got to the point where you can install the ms housing. All you really need is a small piece to fit the cut in the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncman Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 EGW /Koneig setup, Matt McLearn extended firing pin, Geppert Convex trigger. I am in love with the convex trigger! EGW extremely crisp out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 big fan of EGW as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Mostly good parts. I'm not keen on the SVI trigger bow. Also, if Series 80, consider what you shoot before converting. Many organizations have rules against defeating any safety mechanisms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 as much as it is important to use high quality parts, as you are. what makes the trigger job a "trigger job", is the contact area between the sear face and hammer hooks! along with everything else that contributes that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tailgunner Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Wilson Bullet Proof firing group. Wolff springs. Brown thumb safety. Using a Smith, I would let him pick. Why have him "learn" your parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuckinMS Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 If you do it yourself spend some money on the vyapori sear tool. It allows you to pin the sear and hammer in it just like they are in the gun. With the built in microscope yoh can check the engagement of their respective angles and achieve gunsmith results and know that it will last, have no hammer follow, and enjoy! +1 for egw, who makes the Koenig ignition parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 I've built just slightly over a 100 1911 and 2011 guns and this is what I've found out in that experience. But great parts, polish them, fit them correctly ( a lot easier now than 40 years ago, due to the quality of Good parts) and adjust the springs to suit your needs. When Adjusting the leaf spring go slow and in small increments and don't try and go as low as possible 2-2.5 lbs is as low as 95% of shooters will ever need or want. If you buy a set of good parts it is SO simple today to make a good trigger as long as your frame is correctly toleranced! Good fortune! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Another option is to put a True Radius on the sear and mate the hammer hooks to it, if necessary. I have built with both conventional and TR, and honestly I cannot tell the difference between them in trigger pull. I will say the TR approach is a whole lot faster, and you don't need a microscope. If your frame is in spec, it will be, or close to be, a drop in. You can buy a properly prepared, good sear from Harrison Custom. He sells both kinds, so be sure to order the True Radius sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuckinMS Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 4 hours ago, zzt said: Another option is to put a True Radius on the sear and mate the hammer hooks to it, if necessary. I have built with both conventional and TR, and honestly I cannot tell the difference between them in trigger pull. I will say the TR approach is a whole lot faster, and you don't need a microscope. If your frame is in spec, it will be, or close to be, a drop in. You can buy a properly prepared, good sear from Harrison Custom. He sells both kinds, so be sure to order the True Radius sear. I would like to see a pic of what that engagement looks like if you can provide one. It is an interesting concept. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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