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Lubing my 1911 for SS.... Best lube?


G17fan

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Slide Guide, FP10, Seal1... Check a few and see what you prefer.

Here's a link on lubrication that I really like. I would add only that I put a drop of oil on the base of the cocked hammer for the hammer/sear interface at the beginning of each shooting session.

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml


Is it ok to add oil to the base of the cocked hammer? Sorry but I have not heard of this before? It won't make it "slippery"?

I use Brownells action lube on a few of mine, no issues. It is dependent on how the trigger is set up though. If the trigger is correct geometry it should be fine. YMMV

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Here's a link on lubrication that I really like. I would add only that I put a drop of oil on the base of the cocked hammer for the hammer/sear interface at the beginning of each shooting session.

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml

Is it ok to add oil to the base of the cocked hammer? Sorry but I have not heard of this before? It won't make it "slippery"?

I think that the sear and the hammer hooks are being jammed together by the main (or trigger) spring. As you pull the trigger, the sear slides along the hammer hooks and you've got finely machined steel sliding on machined steel. If we have some oil in there, hopefully it will be slippery and not wear out these critical surfaces too fast. I am going to continue doing this until one of the more experienced guys on this website tells me not to. I haven't had any problems with the trigger or A.D.s from doing this.

Edited by jmbaccolyte
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Being new to the 1911 platform I started out using a light coat of CLP on my Les Baer and I had some function problems. Another shooter told me oil the heck out of it and that helped but I was throwing oil all over the place. I changed over the slide glide lite and it runs great! No function problems, stays where you put it, and the slide runs smooth. It is a little more messy cleaning afterward but worth it.

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I use a very light grease. I have been out in unbearably cold conditions and my guns still run, so it must work. NGLI #0 grease for me.

By "unbearably cold" conditions I mean about zero degrees. I used to live in the midwest.

Edited by twodownzero
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Wipe the whole thing down with CLP and some slide glide on rails (very light coating). I rack the slide about 10 times after the gun's reassembled and the extra comes out the end of the rails. I've shot from 30-100 degrees and no problems with the slide glide getting too thick.

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Mobile one synthetic wheel bearing grease, particularly in hot weather. It stays where you put it and can take hugely elevated temps and impact loads.

I use this stuff on just about everything but ARs and .22s. Stays in place longer than any of the "weapon specific" lubes I have used.

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Slide Glide Light or #1 on the locking lugs, slide stop and bottom lug lock-up surfaces, mainspring housing bore and top of cap. 50/50 mix of Militec and Mobil 1 5w20 on the rails, the flat surface in the slide where the disconnector cut is, link, barrel and bushing, full length guide rod (if you're using one) and the fire control bearing points - sear and hammer pins, sear spring center leaf (where it contacts the disconnector), and the hammer strut pin.

Edited by gino_aki
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I put a little CLP on my hammer and sear, everything else geats a heaping helping of Slide Glide, Love that stuff. I am going to install a grease zirk on my next 1911 build to inject slide glide. But I have a loose gun these days after 30k major loads through it.

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Slide Glide Light or #1 on the locking lugs, slide stop and bottom lug lock-up surfaces, mainspring housing bore and top of cap. 50/50 mix of Militec and Mobil 1 5w20 on the rails, the flat surface in the slide where the disconnector cut is, link, barrel and bushing, full length guide rod (if you're using one) and the fire control bearing points - sear and hammer pins, sear spring center leaf (where it contacts the disconnector), and the hammer strut pin.

I often wondered about this. So grease on sear to hammer contact point and their respective pins? What about on mainspring?

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Slide Glide Light or #1 on the locking lugs, slide stop and bottom lug lock-up surfaces, mainspring housing bore and top of cap. 50/50 mix of Militec and Mobil 1 5w20 on the rails, the flat surface in the slide where the disconnector cut is, link, barrel and bushing, full length guide rod (if you're using one) and the fire control bearing points - sear and hammer pins, sear spring center leaf (where it contacts the disconnector), and the hammer strut pin.

I often wondered about this. So grease on sear to hammer contact point and their respective pins? What about on mainspring?

Main spring - a light oil.

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