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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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If it only happens when you are "really into the gun" you might consider swapping out your recoil pad for a limbsaver.

The inertia system needs the gun to move in recoil. Marginal ammo (your ammo) aggressive shooting (what you describe)

can make create an ejection issue. I would for the few bucks change out the extractor and spring for M2 parts as well.

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The 10008 pad will NOT work well if you take more than maybe 1/2" off the stock. There is a plastic lip around the base of the pad, and even at 3/4" shorter the lip comes off part of the pad but not all. It comes out as a hack job. Also, there is a pocket inside, and if you grind the pad too narrow it will rupture under recoil. Keep in mind that the Limbsaver material is MUCH harder to work with than the Sorbothane that Kick-eez uses. I am not saying NOT to do it, just making sure everyone knows what they are getting into.

I will post a picture of a Stoeger extractor I just got back from a customer gun after maybe 1,000 rds through the gun. Definite heat-treat issues and resultant wear causing extraction problems. Benelli extractor is the right fix, and Brownell's had them in stock yesterday at least. Springs are available at Midway if you shop by Benelli part number and not description. The M2 spring is sold out, but the SBE spring is in stock (for more money of course). Benelli stock number is the same.

Replace the Extractor, and use better ammo for the matches only. Save the cheap jstuff for practice. I have seen the "match only" malfunction more than once, as we seem to be more tense and drive the gun a little bit harder under match conditions. If you collapse the recoil pad with shoulder pressure prior to the shot, the gun can't move enough to energize the inertia spring.

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Pat, how much did you take off? and is the limbsaver longer than the stock pad? My 5'6" Irish frame doesn't play much basketball ;)

That is one of the nice features of the M3000. There is no spring, or any other action parts, in the stock. You can cut it to the length you need. Disclaimer...I think there is some law about shortening the stock too much, so check before making a stumpy.

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Overall length of the gun must remain over 26". Not an issue with the barrel choices we have :)

Neb- Check Midway for the spring. Brownell's has the extractors but never springs, Midway vice- versa. Midwest Gunworks sometimes has both, but they are a bit more money. The Stoeger spring does not have as much tension, even when brand new. Benelli part is a definite upgrade.

I don't know what is going on with the random font sizes. Sometimes when I start typing the font is too small to see, sometimes it defaults to big. Poltergeists or something :)

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I only need to take an inch or so off total, so Im sure it would be fine. Youth shotguns have shorter LOP than what I need.

I have T Rex length arms so a youth model length stock would work for me. Edited by tnorman
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So has anyone done any stippling jobs on their M3000? Any pics would be cool to see. Thanks

Gump

I didn't stipple mine but I made templates and cut grip tape to match the areas that the stock is textured from the factory. I will snap some pics later

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I was seriously considering the carbonarms tube simply because of rust. Mine rusts all the time, but mostly inside. I kinda wonder if its not the springs rusting also. But overall, my M3000 is a rust magnet. Takedown pins rust, mag tube, springs everything but the barrel seem to rust. I own browning, Remington, Benelli, Winchesters, Topper, H&R, both old and new, and none of them rust like this gun does. I am considering duracoating the whole thing though to fix the rust issue, but the magtube wont hold it with the springs running on it.

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I wiped on a light coat of remoil.

I think M3000s are allergic to that. :)

Our tube is slick, rust resistant (stainless steel) and in the economy 10 round version, you really can't even beat the price.

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I agree that rust is "generally" not an issue on these. I shot a match this winter in the pouring rain, fell in the mud with the shotgun twice, and didn't get a chance to pull it apart until the next afternoon. I was prepared for the worst when I pulled it out of the range bag. There was light surface rust on the rib and a couple spots on the barrel, which wiped off with a rag wetted with Hoppes oil. No other rust on the gun, in spite of the fact that it still had water on and in it. I leave a light coat of Hoppes oil on the outside of the mag tube for reduced friction, not rust prevention, but it works well for that too. Are you in an area with salt air, or is your storage area warm but not dry? If it was a constant issue I think I would contact Stoeger about refinishing it, since it seems like yours is rusting more than normal. For the mag tube, the SS Carbon Arms unit is a viable solution to ending the problem for good.

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I doubt stoeger will want to warranty the gun, since I polished the mag tube, stippled the grip, and opened the loading port... I live in Nebraska, as far from salt air as you can get. My safe has a golden rod, and 2 big ol' desiccant packs. It never rusts in the safe, nor do any other guns in there, but if I dont clean the thing each and every time it gets remotely wet, itll rust. I duck hunt with the gun with the mag tube off, and snow goose hunt with it on :goof:! I even quad load on them and can almost keep up with my buddies that shoot Saiga's :closedeyes:

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