want2race

Thanks. 185gr Missouri LSWC over Clays. The 185's hit closer to point of aim with my fixed sights.

Unless it's Stainless and the slide galls on the frame. Seen it. On an SA gun. "Just Shoot it" made it worse. Galling doesn't fix itself. I suggested to return it to SA to have them address it. Instead another option was chosen.

If you're looking for a compensator, it will be loud if it is effective. There is no way around it. Look into the Firebird Precision compensator. I have a Titan and my rifle is very very soft and flat (see youtube link in sig). If you want quiet, it will compromise effectiveness.

To check if this is it, push on the side of the trigger which will keep it from moving. Now rack the slide hard a couple times. If the hammer falls, it's not trigger bounce.

Late to party yes, but since there are so many posters that have way more experience with plumbing than I do... I was considering a new faucet but I don't think the old one is my problem. When I turn it on, it takes a second or two before the water starts. This is something that has just started a couple weeks ago. Starting to annoy me. Pushes air for a sec then spits, then flow starts. Faucet or something far worse?

I ran an 11 for awhile. It's a delicate balance though. If you get light strikes, the slide is likely not closed all the way. You won't fell a difference between the 11 and the 13 except that the 13 is more reliable. Don't change striker spring! It's not a Glock, the striker spring in an M&P only changes the trigger pull weight .25# or less. If you feel you must run an 11# recoil, then you will have to reduce the striker spring weight to keep the slide closed. Once you have a few light strikes in matches you will change it back. Your grip strenth and recoil management also play into how light you can get away with.

Put it in completely dry. Nothing to freeze. You only need it once. Mine is in the liquor cabinet, usually the first place I go when I get home. I just watched that episode. I guess he went for a swim while wearing it before storing it in the freezer as it was frosted over pretty good.

I can't stand the extended slide stop and have cut a few. I like that Speedway. Production legal? It's internal. Very easy to do with some bedding compound and black dye. oh, and the will to dremel!

I like the sound it makes when dryfiring.

Just got my results back last week. 13. Still below OSHA standard (40 uh oh, 50 you get the $1500 meds). My blood was drawn the day after an all day indoor match. I'm sure that didn't help. I reload with gloves on. Doc wants to see it below 10. Normal for my area is 3. Normal for the human body is 0.

Results are posted! http://www.bgslinc.com/modules.php?name=BGSL_Sport_SSPROREV&file=page&load=Match%20Results.html Fun match! This was the first time I used the "load2" chest rig. I practiced with it about 10 times or so and it proved very easy to use in a match. The all steel pistol only stage was a blast to shoot!

Jeep, see post #6, click attachment. Be carefull about making the block a dome. The trigger bar does not ride straight over the center of it. It's offset just like the Glock. If you overdo it you can induce light strikes because the block won't be pushed far enough out of the way and the firing pin will "rub" it. Ask me how I know. Using the light spring and rounding the corners is usually enough.

This is my pattern that I do on all poly frame guns. I can get a pic of an M&P later today.

I've modified a Milt Sparks Watch Six for a 4.20 slide version of the VIP. It will be a bit big for the VIP. Alessi has a snap on OWB that's as snug as an IWB. It's nice. Kydex hybrid, maybe the Bladetech piece.

To redefine, how about inexperienced to USPSA shooters? New to handguns, I agree with LPatterson. Familiar with handgun fundamentals but new to USPSA, I like Braxton's concept.

I've quit using large safety paddles. The safety I just fitted to my limited gun resembles the old Colt Gold Cups, except mine is not an ambi. It's about as wide as an EB tactical, but does not extend forward any. I just need to be able to disengage it, which I can do no matter how small it is. My weak hand can click "on" about any size extended paddle, at the worst times. I shoot thumb-on-thumb but my weak hand is so high that the safety is burried under my hand (strong thumb rides on weak hand since the weak hand is covering safety). By going smaller instead of larger, my hand position is irrelevant now. Since my thumb is not on the lever trying to push down, one less pressure point to add inconsistencies (...re: Enos' book). If you can find one, a King's safety might work. If that is who makes what I'm thinking about. I have one right in front of me but it came off a gun so I don't know exactly who made it. It comes with a dovetailed hammer pin that retains the right side ambi paddle. The levers are 1/8" or less below the top of the safety panel (main body). I'll see if I can find the mfg. Otherwise, for now I'd try an EB tactical, single side and cut the extended part of the lever off. You can also make the safety engage with a much more pronounced CLICK. I do that on mine as well. I actually put the safety "on" with my left hand thumb. Otherwise it wears out the to of my strong thumb. It's pretty stiff, but goes "off" very easy. ETA: Yes. Google image "Kings Ambi Safety". You'll see the low paddle and special hammer pin.

I use my Safariland 771's for STI. Just tighten the screws a little and they work PERFECT for the M&P mags. They are cheap too. Open front, fastest pouches I've used. I use them for every division I shoot.

I put this in my Top Shot audition vid: Everytime you get up to get a beer (can), pop it open in the kitchen but don't put the pull tab back down. Leave it straight up, now grip the can with both hands and look through the hole in the tab. Now airgun (tap can to pull trigger) back to the couch. You have a FULL can of BEER and an aiming referrence. Walk smooth or spill BEER. Swinging from target to target (you have targets all over your house right?) your transitions must be smooth or you will spill BEER. Once you get back to the couch your movement drill is over, at least for another 12oz. It's similar to Burkets water bottle except you have an aiming reference and instant feedback (wet hands) if you muck it up.

NOT A DISCUSSION, continuing the HATE! I saw a trick or treater with more facial hair than ME! FULL freakin BEARD! And it was NO costume. He didn't come to my house, but I saw him walking around with bag in hand going door to door. Some kids with no costumes is to be expected? I swear, my neighborhood gets hit by the "flea marketeers." It's like they're going to resell the candy they get.

I should have specified my correction of -5.25, or somerset around there.

I was the opposite. I think glasses are far better. You can tell your Optimitrist to make the focal point higher in the lenses for shooting with a slight head down posture. When I tried contacts that corrected my vision properly I could see the sight crystal clear but everything beyond it was a total blur. If I looked at targets, the sights were not just blurry, but nearly gone. The focal length (area in front of and beyond my point of focus) was so short that anything I wasn't focused on was terrible. For rifle I couldn't even see the rear sight to center the front in it. Glasses have a longer focal length. I'm not sure on the correct terminology. The distance from glasses lens, through eyeball lens, then to retna is longer. My glasses corrected my right eye to 20/30 before I went to replace them. This gave me an even longer focal length. I could see the sights well AND the target well. Things in front of and beyond my point of focus were much clearer with glasses. I've spoken to many eye docs about this and the theory behind it. Glasses give you more fudge factor. Example. Looking through the sights but focusing on a 10 yard target, with glasses I could still see a (although somewhat blurry) sight picture well enough to see the front was centered. With contacts doing to same test, I couldn't even make out the front sight. Yes, I know..front sight focus. This was a test. The opposite was true. Focus on front sight with glasses, 10 yard target was visable enough to make out the C vs D zone. Contacts, target image was very bad. In the end, I got Lasix. I requested they "dumb down" the correction factor. Thay can do a 20/10 correction although they don't gaurantee it. I requested 20/20-20/30. They complied. I was 20/25 the day after surgery. A year later I'm 20/15 in both. If I want the same, longer focal length that I with my old glasses, I can wear +1 lenses to acheive it. I've since adapted my shooting to use no corrective lenses. For gunsmith work, I now use a 5x Optivisor with 10x loop. Whereas I used to just be able to take my glasses off and see 2inches in front of my face. It's the best money I've ever spent.

Nice to hear Otto is making a "skinny" version. After getting mine and practicing for a bit, I'm not giving up weak hand caddy loading, but those will be back up for higher round count stages. The rig will be primary. I trimmed up the Otto carrier. I cut off the end two to make it an 18 round carrier. It does two things. First it fits me better as it's only as wide as my stomach. Two, it stores easier since it's now flatter. I still have room on the weak hand side to access a belt mounted caddies should I need 22 or more rounds. I've never shot a shotgun stage that required reloading more than 20 rounds. I don't shoot the 3G Nation tour. I still practice both methods of loading to maintain flexibility.

One thing I do is hit the zero range. Confidence building if nothing else. Shoot groups at 25 and 50 yards. I do a little dry fire, not for speed but for muscle memory of what perfection is. Clean the gun(s), inspect ammo and mags. Write down my packing list of everything I want to take. Bug juice and vanilla spray is usually number two on the list for SS nationals. My diet doesn't change. For warm climates I prehydrate at least 24hrs before the match. This has helped me at more than one extreme heat major match. Then I just remember that I'm going to have a good time. I shoot at my peak performance when I'm having a really fun time. That is the biggest thing for me. I have to let go of all negative stress and just REALLY enjoy it. The difference is night and day.

Too much light on both sides of the front sight is bad for me. I've tried it. The front sight dances back and forth and leads to less accurate shooting. I have to spend more time makeing sure the sight is actually centered in the rear notch. With a .115 (or .125) rear and a .110 front it's just a sliver of light on both sides. If I can see the front sight through the rear sight I KNOW it's centered. When I tried a .090 front and .125 rear on my 6" gun my points went down a bunch. As soon as I changed the front back to a .110 the points came back up. If the front sight hugs either side of the wide notch, it's a C/D hit. YRMV.

Take the mainspring housing and the grip safety back out, re-install. Sounds like the right leg of sear spring is not where it's supposed to be.