want2race

No but moving the resting position of the trigger to the rear, or modifying the externally visible safety is an external modification. It had been discussed on here at length. I researched it when I started working on M&P's. If NROI has ruled on this specifically, I haven't been able to find it.

But if on a production gun, can't modify the external safety. I use the Glockworx springs and their race connector. Free up the friction and the trigger will reset and the safety will work.

12 year old F150 4x4, extended cab with a shell. Stock wheels, missing center caps, not lifted or lowered, not even tinted windows. Basically the same model of truck these yahoo's were in. I leave the racing on the track or at the range. My 11 year old minivan is actually quicker. If I've cut off somebody because I didn't see them or anything like that I can deal with some anger based on my actions, but this was totally unpromted. I should have turned the radio on so at least my son didn't have to know what was going on. I thought about revving a couple times and act like I was going to hammer it at the green. Then just sit there when it did change, hoping they would take off and get popped for speeding/racing. There was a lot of pedestrian traffic around though and I didn't want them to race off the line and hit someone. Like at the end of Back to the Future. I had time sitting at the light to go through a lot of options.

OMG! That is what I'm talking about, Wrong! Wrong! Wrong! If he's not sitting in jail right now he's lucky. I had a camera with me, and my phone. After the fact (of course), I realized I could have videoed them. The weird part was, we had just left the downtown area for the parade and there were cops everywhere. This thread has been thereputic. Rage is like a jack-in-the-box. People keep turning the handle, it's only a matter of time before evil pops out.

I was packing at the time, appendix carried 9mm. That was the other reason a face to face "discussion" with a truck full of idiots would be a bad idea. We talk about it all the time in training, as a CCW we are held to a higher standard when it comes to confrontations. I can ignore a lot, but when it comes to my kids I HATE public profanity. I've taught him from an early age that he will hear adults using language we don't use. "We are smarter than that, we don't need to use words like that." Last time I went off on somebody for yelling profanities it was inside a Great Clips hair cutting place. It is a family oriented hair cut place and I flipped out on some high school aged kid, who was with his mom, who then appologized as he was autistic. I almost felt bad, almost. I was too pissed off to feel bad. This kid was telling a story, but dropping A-holes and F bombs and no one else was correcting him.

I'm at a stop light with my 6y/o in the truck with me. We just left the down town parade where he got to ride on a fire truck with his cub scout den. A trucks rolls up beside me after I had been siting there a while. I hear yelling and swearing. Realize that it's coming from a back seat passenger in the truck next to me. The are egging me on to race, using profanity that was very audible even after I rolled up the window. I kept looking at the passenger and driver, they would not look at me, the idiot in their backseat was the one yelling. Dark tint on the back window of their black F150 XLT 4x4 with temp registration so I could not actually see him. I was furious! I don't swear around my kids. Why doesn't that happen to me when me son is not with me? I tried to explain to him that it was far smarter to roll up windows and ignore them. His safety is more important to me than confronting them about the rudeness and error of their ways. Remember when Big Mike just slumped his shoulders down and "powered down" instead of destroying Jake's face on "that show"? Yeah, that is hard to do, but the right thing to do. They shadowed me for three lights, fingers waving and everything, right next to my truck. I ended up pulling into a gas station to avoid anything from escalating.

The Remi truck will be at my local club for a Versa demo. I'm interested to go check it out.

If you have too much reset tension it can create excessive drag and the reset will be sluggish. I had experimented with different tensions (amount the bar was bent), then once I got it right measured before and after. Now I can do it by feel, then confirm with measurement. I have actually never installed a RAM so I can't comment on doing both other than what I mentioned above.

Pull out the slide release lever and recheck (disassemble and reassemble without the lever). I bet the trigger will reset without the slide release lever installed. If it does, then you can fix it. The release lever spring can cause some binding issues with your spring combo. I've fixed that issue as easy as slightly bending that spring. The benefit is that removing that friction will lower your overall trigger pull weight as well!

Easy, Take out the trigger, bend the trigger bow. I put the longest portion against a straight edge and measure, then bend it to increase the distance by .010-.015. You CAN overdo it. I take my measurement at the near 90* angle. Yes a picture would help but I'm at work. Hang on.... ...painting.... See if this helps M&P reset adj.bmp

I was shooting 180gr JHP Zero's up until now. I called Donnie at Bayou and requested a .400 finished diameter 180gr bullet. I've had issues with .401 and .402 diameter bullets before. I have a different barrel that I throated for oversized bullets but I wanted to be able to shoot Greenies and Zero's through the same barrel. Just because. Donnie made some up for me and I tested the first 100 in a match. 100% perfect. Velocities were way up, accuracy was great and zero smoke (just like my JHP Zero load). I worried about gas getting around the .400 bullet causing issues but so far nothing. Loaded over 4.9gr of Universal I was averaging 1010fps. I dropped two tenths of powder which is even lower than my lead load. Donnie had to get a new bullet mold just so I could try it. I already ordered and received more, I'll be shooting them again tonight at the indoor match. I just hope he can keep up with production!

After checking out the CMC flat triggers at pro-am I ordered two of them. I had the JP trigger and hammer in my AR and liked it but wanted to try the flat trigger since all my guns have flat triggers. My JP broke at 3.5# using the yellow hammer spring. Reset was short and light. The CMC breaks at 2.5# if measured in the middle of the flat trigger. 2.0# if measured at the bottom. The reset is much stronger since it uses heavier springs than I had installed in my JP. The reset distance is slightly longer than my JP, but since I don't ride the reset when I shoot I don't think it's a deal breaker. It's not a great deal longer, I had both triggers installed in lowers and was able to compare side by side. I've only used the CMC in one stage so far but my initial opinion is good. I like the feel of it and the pull is very good. I bought two, the other one is sitting in a stripped lower still. Now I just need to build a rifle around it.

I don't like the tension of Bladetech's. I use a CompTac made for a 5" Edge. I put a few layers of masking tape on the slide, heat the end of the holster and push it through. Only about .5" of muzzle protrudes through. I don't really care for the DOH part either. I run my limited gun in the same place as my production and single stack holsters. Steel1212 and I both hit .69 draws from kydex on the same night. I like the comfort of knowing it's not ever going to fall out.

Just cut off two end shell holders, recut the slot for the belt. There you go. Thin man's version.

I only had 5 Charlies, did a combo. Shoot/move on first 3. Then posted up for the other 3 groups of 4 targets. Oh, you weren't referring to my run were you...LOL. I was .6 off your pace but I had to do one more reload. I think for SS it made sense to post up because of the target arrays vs. reloads. With more rounds in the gun it would make more sense to shoot/move. That's like a 15hf stage shooting Ltd. It was fun.

Sounds like it's dremel and hammer time!

Try this. Insert magazine. Now mash the mag release, hard. Hold it in as hard as you can, now try to remove the mag. If you feel it dragging, the mag catch is pinching the magazine and holding it in the gun. I've seen this a few times. The mags stick, so you mash the button harder, which makes it worse. The mag comes out about an inch because it starts to come out, then gets pinched by the mag catch. If you mash the mag catch and the mag has no friction, then I'd look at the feed lips and springs (mentioned already).

I've installed an Edge trigger kit. The one issue I had was the firing pin safety plunger activation. Reducing the pretravel puts the trigger bar bump right under the plunger. I spent a lot of time looking at all the safeties after I installed it. I can duplicate the entire kit myself but I was trying out the kit for research purposes. The drop safety was still intact with all of the pretravel reduced. The trigger safety was modified and thus still functional. My concern was the FP plunger. I assembled the slide, minus extractor, so I could watch the plunger movement throughout the trigger travel. I ended up mofifying the trigger bar bump and FP plunger as well as increasing the pretravel a little to ensure the firing pin block safety was functional. The production legal kit doesn't reduce pretravel and has none of the safety concerns described above.

More "Do not double Stack".... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ7M33iEk0Y&sns=em

Nice shooting, is it just me or at :32 does your gun start ejecting brass out to the left? It's quite possible. As I was holstering up at the safe area that morning I noticed brass marks forward of the ejection port, that I had not seen before. My ejector was broken. Shot the whole match with it like that. I didn't have my tools with me so I couldn't even smooth out the rough edges. Tried to use a multi tool (file), but it didn't do anything to the ejector. EB long ejector was a perfect replacement, didn't even have to match it to my slide. I trimmed the length so the mags won't hit it if they over insert. The brass now kicks out almost straight right. No broken light bulbs from this guy (indoor range mishaps).

Watching Ty shoot the Benelli side match at the ProAm 3gun is what really sold me on it. I was poopah'ing it (to myself) when I first saw the chest rig. That lasted about 30 minutes because after I saw Ty shoot the side match 4 seconds faster than I did I was open to the new (for me) concept. I figured 6 seconds for 8 shells was totally doable with minimal practice. 4.5 for 8 is awesome!

The Dawson has a very shallow angle. As is the issue with almost all bolt on mag wells. It's about the only one available with no gap though.

If you click the link to Otto products from the TSS site you'll find Marks contact info. I called him up.

Wow, that Burkett mag well looks VERY familiar. WOWEE on the price though. If I needed a bolt on, I would use a no-gap Dawson and either use his base pads. My magwell requires modified bases and it's never been an issue. I only use mags I own. I think the Heinie bolt on or Stan Chen is the best looking magwell but it's a gunsmith fit only option.

I've also had issues with the extractor. Unknown number of rounds through the gun. Extractor issues are a known problem with early M&P's. I took mine out, cleaned it and sharpened it up some (similar to tuning a 1911 extractor). It was perfect again after that. The hook was worn just a bit. Apex sells a replacement, but the solid pin S&W uses is pressed in. It takes a tapered punch, large hammer and some concrete under a 2x4 to get it to move. I replaced the pin with a roll pin to facilitate easier future cleanings.