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roxymajor

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    roxymajor

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    Central Ky
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    3 GUN BGSL WILMORE KY
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    Greg Brown

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  1. I ran a M1 18.5" no choke threads for a year, then bought a 18.5" M2 treaded barrel for chokes. I shot this for about 4 years at many matches until going to a Browning A5. There are some nice advantages to the M2 18.5" like rifle sights for slugs and precision shots, lighter weight for quicker target acquisition (when your skills get there) and stages with closer open targets using an open choke, you can blast away without precision aiming. The main disadvantage with the 18.5" barrel is you alway have to worry about the target distance and choke selection. Longer barrels have a lot more forgiving patterns. I was constantly stepping off target distances to get the best advantage I could at the target distances along with ammo selection on non-typical targets (spinners etc...). There are a couple of things you might want to do to the sights. I used some bright orange model paint, oil based, on the rifle sights (paint grooves). You can do just the front or also the rear. I also had a fiber optic put in the front rife sight (get a good gun smith, it is a little risky considering the sight part of the barrel).
  2. USPSA says 19 foot fault line. https://uspsa.org/viewer/RifleShotgunMultigunRules.pdf
  3. You can't go wrong with the Tru-Ball. I have been using them for 5 years with no problems. I would buy the copper plated if still available. The have a little more pop than other lower recoil slugs, but the have always worked well in my Benelli and Browning A5. I have shot them in my Remington VeraMax, but they lead up the forcing cone section of the barrel really bad .... and I hate to clean guns!
  4. That was not listed as a choice and I was trying not to hijack this post to that beat down discussion. The auto-load feature is a huge advantage for new shooters.
  5. The Versa. The only issues I had had is it’s heavy and the slugs were wild (Benny will fix that). The M2 will probably last longer.
  6. I have suggested to my A5 customers that they shoot 1200fps 1 1/8 oz Winchester AA or other premium quality semi-auto type equal. I would not shoot the 1145fps until well broken in (1000 rds) and would not shoot them in a match. I have some shooters shooting 1145fps 1-1/8 oz premium shells with no issues if they keep the gun oiled and clean. Concerning recoil (not reliability), I have put random 1145 and 1200 shells in the tube and have a hard time telling which one is which.
  7. Here is the Nordic ext at Shooter's Connection.. http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Nordic-MXT-Shotgun-Magazine-Extension-Kit-12ga-P4221.aspx I shot a Benelli M1 with a 18.5" barrel and a 7 round extension (10 round tube total) for two years without any issues of shot hitting the 10 tube extension. I have seen some REALLY long open class tubes welded together. I suggest using a 10 round total or 12 round total tube. This will give you either a "Two-Load" (10 tube) or a "quad-load" (12 tube) off the start signal. I have always preferred the 10 tube for safer maneuvering and "throwing" in the dump barrel. I have seen some long tubes bounce out of the dump barrels with excited shooters. (One on the second stage of the KY State Wildcat 3gun Match... with initials TJH :) )
  8. The only weakness of the A5 for a tactical shotgun is that area . The complete carrier action was designed to have maximum stress of 4 ea 3.5" shells in the factory tube. After inserting 5+ shells in the tube, the manual shell release button doesn't release the shell 100% of the time (the more shells in the tube, the less chance the button will release the shell) and usually needs some assistance (by slamming your fist on the opposite side of the receiver), This is not a firing functioning or cycling problem, because the recoil process helps the shell release while firing. The only time this is usually an issue is at the make ready command when the tube is full and you are trying to release a shell to load the chamber (time for that wack on the side). I have worked hours and hours on this issue with different springs and everything else i can think of. The FN SLP spring seems to help. It is slightly stronger. Last time I checked they were on back order. This is not going to effect your stage time, but is a little distraction before the beep.
  9. 1-1/8 oz @ 1200fps is the standard. If it was lower power that this, try some hotter loads. I would take apart and re-assemble. If that doesn't work, call Remington. It is usually suggested that you shoot some hotter loads to break in a new shotgun.
  10. The Federal Tru-ball 1350 fps have not missed a beat. Both the lead and copper plated.
  11. HOTTER AMMO. Velocity is fine with shorter barrel (Thanks Kurt for that lesson years ago). I was referring to the spread of the shot. SOMETIMES on a stage it would be better to load hotter ammo for more knock down power vs choking up for the whole stage ( or just hotter ammo on those particular longer or heavier targets, if easy to plan). You would still have less shot hitting the targets because of the spread, but less misses because shot has more punch. I personally will always take a bigger shot spread with hotter ammo vs choking up and aiming. I hate to aim, it slow me down.
  12. TUBE/BARREL CLAMP... An extended tube past the shorter barrel USUALLY needs support so it won't fail at where it connects to the receiver, especially when throwing in dump barrels and slinging the shotgun (longer tube, more snags).
  13. There are lots of posts on this, I'd do some searching. ALL THINGS EQUAL--- Shorter equals lighter >Lighter equals quicker. Shorter equals larger spread >Larger spread equals less misses. BUT-------- Shorter equals more choke changes. Shorter equals tube clamp. Shorter sometimes equals hotter ammo. Lighter equals more recoil. The End gb
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