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About sasquatch981

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    Sees Sights Lift
  • Birthday 12/21/1972

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    Bellingham, WA
  • Real Name
    Matt Pridachuk

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  1. Sounds silly, but I have purchased (4) long sleeved fishing shirts at Cabela's that work great. https://www.cabelas.com/product/HUK-MENS-HUK-KRYPTEK-LOPRO-ICON-HOODY/2235753.uts?slotId=1
  2. Just a heads up for those that might need the info. I called Safariland today and was told the following. The ALS 6378 and ALS 6376 are the same holster, with different attachment points (e.g belt loop vs. paddle). The Sku's are broken into (3) sections. 6378-56-412. The first section is the holster model, 6378, the second section is the gun designation 56 (Springfield TRP), and the last section is the draw hand 412 (in my case left-handed) The tech told me that they do not make a 2011 holster for STI, and clones. As the holster locks on the chamber it does not really matter what "grip" you have on the gun. If you want the full dust cover model, you will need the model for the Springfield TRP middle number (56). If you want a standard dust cover model you want (53). They do not make a holster for a 6" gun, and I was told the extra slide length, comp, extended barrel will just protrude from the bottom of the holster. Lastly I was told this is also a trial and error process. Some brands and models of pistols with a rail may or may not fit within the above noted holsters. Dremel for the win!!!
  3. Looking for a full length dust cover 5” and a standard dust cover 6”.
  4. I have a few Safailand ALS holsters for my glocks that I really like, and I want one for the 2011 with a full dust cover. I have tried the holster finder, but no luck with anything that has a full dust cover under STI, Springfield, RRA, etc.
  5. I can't remember the size of the tap, but basically, I use a tap, that is attached to a long extension, and then from the rear with bolt removed, insert the extension/tap, give about 1/4-1/2 turn just enough to "grab" the case, and pull out.
  6. I don't have the RRA anymore, so I can't speak to that. I am thinking this just has to be bad brass. I'll make a note of what headstamps I am using, or just buy factory for bit to see if this solves the problem.
  7. I had a bone stock RRA 9mm upper that I ran in local rifle matches for almost 9-years, and never had a single case head separation. I built a new 9mm AR Shorty upper, and had sevearl case head separations while figuring the system out. That is when I learned about the internal stepped brass. Now, when I prep my brass, I tumble, and put everything into a a dillon 9mm bullet box with the open case mouth facing up, and then shine a flashlight over the tops and pull all the stepped stuff out. Now with good brass, and what I was told was the secret sauce is recoil parts, I set about getting ready for the Washington State USPSA Championship. I went out to test before the match, and zero the dot. 6-round into the session case head separation. I forgot my tools at home, so had to leave the range. Got everything cleared at home, and gut the thing zero'd and ready for the match. Shot 1 stage and had a few FTE's, but went fine. Second stage 7 shots in, and jam, rack it out, jam, rack it out, jam, look inside and low and behold another Case Head Separation!!!!!! Since building this shorty, I have had 10+ case head separations, 6 of which could be attributed to the stepped brass. What else could be causing it? I am shooting 147's loaded to 1.1. Power factor is right about 135, so nothing super hot. 8.5" wilson 9mm barrel, and FoxTrot Mike Glock bolt with weight removed. The secret sause I was told for recoil was a JP .308 Spring, (short stroke spacer i.e. delrin spacer measured by use of quarters) Endine hydraulic buffer, and the waffle spring. All in a carbine tube. So, what says the collective?
  8. Another vote for the CKYE pod. Yes it is expensive, but it is so versatile. Pan, tilt, high, low, skinny, wide. Put it on an arca rail and now you have near and far to add to it. I can make mine hug a round barrel top, or the convex barrel body if on its side. Different length legs for logs or even hay bales. One of most my most versatile pieces of kit, besides my saracen rear bag.
  9. So I may not be fast on the uptake, and maybe somebody can use simple words to explain it to me. So I have my SBR 9mm set up with a carbine length tube, spacer (5-6 quarters), the waffle spring, a JP .308 spring, and the endine hydraulic buffer. I currently have a “normal” 9mm bolt with the counter weight still installed. Shoots great. However, just thinking in simple physics mode, the lighter the bolt, the faster the cycling, and the less weight being cycled, should make for less recoil correct? Just want to make sure I am thinking straight. Thanks.
  10. I am looking to buy a Caldwell "Shootin Gallery" moving target system. Anyone have one they want to sell, or know where to get one that is in stock. Looks like they may have been discontinued. Shooting Galley Video Clip
  11. Thanks to everyone, I was able to fix the issue. Took about 200 rounds to the range this past weekend and had so issues at all!!! Fix was to get a separate seater, and crimper. Everything else on my set up stayed the same.
  12. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Picked up a new Hornady seater, and installed yesterday. Adjusted to seat only, and not crimp at all. Ran a couple of test rounds and it seated everything perfect, and to length, and there was still the slight bell on the case. Next station was the lee factory crimp, and took all the bell away and added a slight crimp. NO MORE MUFFIN TOPS!!!!! Ran them through my AR9, MPX (soon to be for sale), and my glocks. NO ISSUES.
  13. With the dillion seater, there is no seating stem, it just fits in place with a clip. I will order a different seating die, that allows setting of the depth with a stem. Hopefully that will cure the issue.
  14. I am about to say screw it and never load 9mm again. Here is the deal and photos lets see what we can figure out. I am currently loading 147 gr Ibjehead coated bullets (but have loaded extreme plated, rainier plated, BBI, and Bayou Coated) all have had some of the same issue. With the coated, I scrape the coating off, and with the plated I "ripple" the coating to the essential same effect, leaving muffin top on the case where it meets the bullet. This is all once fired indoor range brass sorted to keep out the weird internal stepped cases. Loading Process on a 650: Size and decap using Dillion Carbide Dies, Turned 1/4 turn past touching the plate to get a little cam over effect and try and decrease the "glock bulge" Prime and drop powder using dillon powder die. (I have used extreme bell, no bell, and the perfectly measured 3/thou bell on the case and it does the same on each type of belling) Seat using a dillon 9mm Seating die (Again, tried seating deep, and shallow, but typically at the 1.10 length to shoot in my glocks, and PCC) Lee Factory Crimp die. (Set to extreme crimp, proper crimp, and no crimp) makes no difference. Now as I load, I will get a full 25-30% muffin top on all rounds. This is simply unacceptable. At first I thought it was a bell issue, and therefore adjusted that, then thought it may be a seating issue, and then finally a crimp issue. I have adjusted all items independent of the any other changes and still get about the same result. Then I thought I might be "undersizing" the brass, and thus "shoving" the bullet into an area that is too narrow. I remembered having a lee undersized die, and thought that was my problem, but when I checked the dies, I have the dillon, and must have the lee in the box somewhere. Any Ideas? Please help before the 9mm toolhead takes a dive off the end of the boat!!!
  15. I host a .22 match at my club, and people love it. Just as above, spinners, KYL's and everything out to 225yards. Meanest thing I have done so far is a KYL at 75-yards, and another at a little over 115 yards......kicker is you can only dial for range and hold over for the next!!!!
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