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sasquatch981

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About sasquatch981

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    Sees Sights Lift
  • Birthday 12/21/1972

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  • Location
    Bellingham, WA
  • Real Name
    Matt Pridachuk

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  1. Thanks to everyone, I was able to fix the issue. Took about 200 rounds to the range this past weekend and had so issues at all!!! Fix was to get a separate seater, and crimper. Everything else on my set up stayed the same.
  2. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Picked up a new Hornady seater, and installed yesterday. Adjusted to seat only, and not crimp at all. Ran a couple of test rounds and it seated everything perfect, and to length, and there was still the slight bell on the case. Next station was the lee factory crimp, and took all the bell away and added a slight crimp. NO MORE MUFFIN TOPS!!!!! Ran them through my AR9, MPX (soon to be for sale), and my glocks. NO ISSUES.
  3. With the dillion seater, there is no seating stem, it just fits in place with a clip. I will order a different seating die, that allows setting of the depth with a stem. Hopefully that will cure the issue.
  4. I am about to say screw it and never load 9mm again. Here is the deal and photos lets see what we can figure out. I am currently loading 147 gr Ibjehead coated bullets (but have loaded extreme plated, rainier plated, BBI, and Bayou Coated) all have had some of the same issue. With the coated, I scrape the coating off, and with the plated I "ripple" the coating to the essential same effect, leaving muffin top on the case where it meets the bullet. This is all once fired indoor range brass sorted to keep out the weird internal stepped cases. Loading Process on a 650: Size and decap using Dillion Carbide Dies, Turned 1/4 turn past touching the plate to get a little cam over effect and try and decrease the "glock bulge" Prime and drop powder using dillon powder die. (I have used extreme bell, no bell, and the perfectly measured 3/thou bell on the case and it does the same on each type of belling) Seat using a dillon 9mm Seating die (Again, tried seating deep, and shallow, but typically at the 1.10 length to shoot in my glocks, and PCC) Lee Factory Crimp die. (Set to extreme crimp, proper crimp, and no crimp) makes no difference. Now as I load, I will get a full 25-30% muffin top on all rounds. This is simply unacceptable. At first I thought it was a bell issue, and therefore adjusted that, then thought it may be a seating issue, and then finally a crimp issue. I have adjusted all items independent of the any other changes and still get about the same result. Then I thought I might be "undersizing" the brass, and thus "shoving" the bullet into an area that is too narrow. I remembered having a lee undersized die, and thought that was my problem, but when I checked the dies, I have the dillon, and must have the lee in the box somewhere. Any Ideas? Please help before the 9mm toolhead takes a dive off the end of the boat!!!
  5. I host a .22 match at my club, and people love it. Just as above, spinners, KYL's and everything out to 225yards. Meanest thing I have done so far is a KYL at 75-yards, and another at a little over 115 yards......kicker is you can only dial for range and hold over for the next!!!!
  6. VZ-427. Left hand. Buddy has one for .22 PRS marches. Tack driver and fairly cheap.
  7. Thanks for the info. I ended up with a liberty .22 can. I was actually able to make a trade for it with stuff that was just sitting in my safe!!!
  8. As for the pros, you have listed them. As for the cons, it would have to be price. I just purchased a Accuracy International AT, and the cost difference between the folder and the non-folder was over $400. And that was dealer cost!!!! I would say save the money. Get a non-folder.
  9. I like the Saracen bag, by warhorse Tactical. Chas is a great guy, and even delivered my bag to a match we were both shooting. Similar to the tactical udder, I believe the Saracen came first, but don't want to starting a flame war.
  10. So I have found a place that has the Ryder 22A's for under $200, so with the $200 Tax Stamp, it is now the same price as many other suppressors normal price. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this model and how they like it?
  11. So I have a labradar, and set it up using the instructions and several youtube videos. It does not seem to want to trigger and records any data. Sensitivity is set to 1, and I am at the "close" distance. I have tried the it with the muzzle, behind, at, and in front of the unit. The Orange "armed" light is on, but after about 30-rounds between all the positions it has not picked up or triggered a single round. I am starting to think I have a dud unit!!!!! Any suggestions?
  12. I guess if I put this in the right forum I might get more answers So I have been lurking around the Whidden site, and am intrigued about the click adjustable dies. However, I had been using Forster dies for my 6.5x47 Lapua. I use the dillons for the .223, and pistol, but want the extra precision of the PRS rifle dies. Any recommendations, or are the Reddings, or others just as good? I have a 50% certificate for Redding dies that I could use.
  13. So I have been lurking around the Whidden site, and am intrigued about the click adjustable dies. However, I had been using Forster dies for my 6.5x47 Lapua. I use the dillons for the .223, and pistol, but want the extra precision of the PRS rifle dies. Any recommendations, or are the Reddings, or others just as good? I have a 50% certificate for Redding dies that I could use.
  14. I have a rugged for pistol calibers and they are top notch. First day I took it out, I had a bullet tumble at the end, and take a chunk out of the end cap. Very first shot I watched it on video!!!! Called Rugged the next day, and they had a new cap sent out that afternoon!!! I have a Saker in .308 for mt PRS gun, and the .223's. I ditched the ASR mount, and went with the AREA 419 adapter. Great decision!!!! Other than that, I want to get a Thunderbeast. They really support our sport (any many others). They make great kit as well.
  15. I use this guy. I have never had a stage that I needed more travel, that was not easily adjusted with the leveling head, or a quick adjustment to the front leg of the tripod. http://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/TA-U-LC-SOAR-Universal-Leveling-Base-with-Clamp
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