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sasquatch981

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About sasquatch981

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  • Birthday 12/21/1972

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    Bellingham, WA
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    Matt Pridachuk

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  1. Sooo I took it all apart, cleaned it, polished it and put it back together. Still does the same thing. Here is a short video of it in action. It appears that once the handle is pulled all the way in the down position, the actuator moves as it is supposed to, but the case inside the assembly does not move far enough forward to pull the case out from beneath the case above, and not into the drop assembly below. When the handle is pressed back in the up position, the case simply stacks in under the case above, and maybe on the second pull it will fall down where it is supposed to. AS you can see, the triangle doo-dad is in the rifle position. Video of malfunction.
  2. Just follow along for abit I hope it will make sense. Machine only has about 3-4K rounds on it. I am loading .308 currently. I know when loading pistol ammo (or short cases) you are to have the triangle doo-dad with the long angle facing the pivot arm, and this allows for a smooth transition of the pivot to allow the case to drop. When loading rifle cases, you are supposed to switch the triangle doo-dad around to allow the straight wall, and sharp angle at the top activate the pivot arm to drop the case, and allow extra dwell time for the longer case to drop through the pivot arm. My problem is, when I switch the triangle doo-dad around for rifle. the steep angle hits the pivot arm, and almost comes to a stop, putting a large amount of pressure on the entire mechanism, and I watch the whole plate system dip down towards the table top before the triangle passes the sticking point and moves the actuator. I am afraid it is going to break the triangle doo-dad mounting parts. Also the actuator pivot arm seems fairly stiff, and will actually get stuck in place if I push it all the way towards the tool head. I have tried lubing it, adjusting the tension on the nylock bolt, checked to make sure the case feed insert is not dragging, checked the body busing is not sticking too high into the body etc. Any ideas? Here is a stock photo to show the area I am speaking about.
  3. Thanks Guys, I guess I will just go separate seating die, whether that be Redding, Whidden, or Forster.
  4. So I have a set of Dillon dies for my 650, but want to adjust the depth of the bullet for load development in .308. I want to use a micrometer adjuster and was wondering if anyone has or if you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Bullet-Seating-Micrometer-Remington/dp/B00RY9RHC4/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2HK7DBG3GSIG5&dchild=1&keywords=hornady+micro+adjust+seating+stem&qid=1575742387&sprefix=hornady+micr%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-9 I can't seem to find dimensions on dillon dies to see if they use ½-20 threads. And I don't really want to spend $120 on a seating die, when I already have a seating die, I just want more adjustability.
  5. I have a few jugs of the stuff on the shelf, and thought I would see if anyone is using this 175GR .308. I might as well try it for PRS practice ammo. Let me know what works.
  6. I know about the micrometer on the powder bar, and that is great if you plan on changing charges. I was thinking of something that may make the chosen charge more accurate. Something like a different shaped powder reservoir, a different deliver system etc.
  7. I seem to recall reading somewhere that someone made an aftermarket powder bar, or parts that would allow the 650/1050 to be upgraded to a more precise thrower. Now that Winchester came out with the new Staball 6.5 powder, (It is temp insensitive, and a ball powder) it should make loading on the 650/1050 for precision rifle stuff much easier and faster than running a chargemaster. So with that said, are there any parts that will allow the powder throw to be more precise, for PRS type loads?
  8. Sounds silly, but I have purchased (4) long sleeved fishing shirts at Cabela's that work great. https://www.cabelas.com/product/HUK-MENS-HUK-KRYPTEK-LOPRO-ICON-HOODY/2235753.uts?slotId=1
  9. Just a heads up for those that might need the info. I called Safariland today and was told the following. The ALS 6378 and ALS 6376 are the same holster, with different attachment points (e.g belt loop vs. paddle). The Sku's are broken into (3) sections. 6378-56-412. The first section is the holster model, 6378, the second section is the gun designation 56 (Springfield TRP), and the last section is the draw hand 412 (in my case left-handed) The tech told me that they do not make a 2011 holster for STI, and clones. As the holster locks on the chamber it does not really matter what "grip" you have on the gun. If you want the full dust cover model, you will need the model for the Springfield TRP middle number (56). If you want a standard dust cover model you want (53). They do not make a holster for a 6" gun, and I was told the extra slide length, comp, extended barrel will just protrude from the bottom of the holster. Lastly I was told this is also a trial and error process. Some brands and models of pistols with a rail may or may not fit within the above noted holsters. Dremel for the win!!!
  10. Looking for a full length dust cover 5” and a standard dust cover 6”.
  11. I have a few Safailand ALS holsters for my glocks that I really like, and I want one for the 2011 with a full dust cover. I have tried the holster finder, but no luck with anything that has a full dust cover under STI, Springfield, RRA, etc.
  12. I can't remember the size of the tap, but basically, I use a tap, that is attached to a long extension, and then from the rear with bolt removed, insert the extension/tap, give about 1/4-1/2 turn just enough to "grab" the case, and pull out.
  13. I don't have the RRA anymore, so I can't speak to that. I am thinking this just has to be bad brass. I'll make a note of what headstamps I am using, or just buy factory for bit to see if this solves the problem.
  14. I had a bone stock RRA 9mm upper that I ran in local rifle matches for almost 9-years, and never had a single case head separation. I built a new 9mm AR Shorty upper, and had sevearl case head separations while figuring the system out. That is when I learned about the internal stepped brass. Now, when I prep my brass, I tumble, and put everything into a a dillon 9mm bullet box with the open case mouth facing up, and then shine a flashlight over the tops and pull all the stepped stuff out. Now with good brass, and what I was told was the secret sauce is recoil parts, I set about getting ready for the Washington State USPSA Championship. I went out to test before the match, and zero the dot. 6-round into the session case head separation. I forgot my tools at home, so had to leave the range. Got everything cleared at home, and gut the thing zero'd and ready for the match. Shot 1 stage and had a few FTE's, but went fine. Second stage 7 shots in, and jam, rack it out, jam, rack it out, jam, look inside and low and behold another Case Head Separation!!!!!! Since building this shorty, I have had 10+ case head separations, 6 of which could be attributed to the stepped brass. What else could be causing it? I am shooting 147's loaded to 1.1. Power factor is right about 135, so nothing super hot. 8.5" wilson 9mm barrel, and FoxTrot Mike Glock bolt with weight removed. The secret sause I was told for recoil was a JP .308 Spring, (short stroke spacer i.e. delrin spacer measured by use of quarters) Endine hydraulic buffer, and the waffle spring. All in a carbine tube. So, what says the collective?
  15. Another vote for the CKYE pod. Yes it is expensive, but it is so versatile. Pan, tilt, high, low, skinny, wide. Put it on an arca rail and now you have near and far to add to it. I can make mine hug a round barrel top, or the convex barrel body if on its side. Different length legs for logs or even hay bales. One of most my most versatile pieces of kit, besides my saracen rear bag.
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