sasquatch981

I just ran across this: https://zrodelta.com/the-one/ It basically looks like an aluminum framed Glock that is super modular, and can be set up as a compact, duty, or competition pistol. Different magwells, different back straps, different slide lengths, etc. However it has an all aluminum frame that looks intriguing, and has a trigger module much like the Sig P-320 series of pistols to allow the use of different grips etc. If you want you can purchase the entire "kit". Photo for reference.

CZ-457 At-one, or Bergara B14. I have shot both and enjoyed both. I have a buddy that shoots the bergara at our local matches and he is a lefty. As for Optics also look into Arken Optics, they are great for the price, I have one on my CZ-455 in the AT-One that I shoot, while I am awaiting my RIMX. Get at least a 20MOA rail if not 30-40MOA. If the scope only has 10-15 mils of elevation after zeroing, that runs out really fast, as going from 100 yards is 1.2 Mils, and 200 yards is 7.9 mils, and if I am not mistaken 230 yards is closer to 10+ mils. Once you get out there it adds up fast.

So on the double alpha page when you by the "kit" it comes with the dropper die, the magazine, and a powder funnel to "flare" the case. Is this some sort of special powder funnel that is different than the dillon one I already have? I mean I already flare the case to seat the bullet. Can I just buy the magazine and die, and call it good? Or do I really need the special powder funnel?

I know this has been asked a bunch, but what is the new goto sight. I have been out of the pistol game for awhile. I think the Fastfire is out, and the new kids are Holosun 509, The Romeo 1 Max, The and the Trijicon SRO. Are the Delta-point and the RMR out? What are your thoughts. I can get most all of the these at wholesale, so cost is not huge issue, but was wondering if I am missing something out there. I have 2 and 4 MOA dots in my Aimpoints on my rifles but thought that the 2Moa might be too small for a pistol which is what the Holosun uses, and I am not really a a fan of the dot and circle reticle. Thanks.

Snipers Hide, and Accurate Shooter are the 2 largest sites. As other have said, lots of info you can wade through. After awhile, you can tell who is the keyboard commando, and who has actually shot something at a match.

Just ordered one for our club. Can't wait.

I Started with a RPR, in .243. Shot like a laser beam. Then moved onto an MPA in 6.5x47 when the bug hit. Then went whole hog with an Accuracy International, with the quick barrel change. Loosen one set screw, take off the barrel, screw on the new caliber, hand tight, and tighten the set screw to 49-inch pounds, and in under a minute you can switch calibers to just about anything with the bolt face you have. Me, I have the 6.5Creed, .308, and will likley go 6.5x47, or maybe a 6mm of some sort. Once your bit, it's just like any hobby. You can progress with equipment at whatever speed you want. And just like any of the other shooting sports I have dabbled in, the perople are great and will let you try just about anything to see if you like it before you buy.

Sooo I took it all apart, cleaned it, polished it and put it back together. Still does the same thing. Here is a short video of it in action. It appears that once the handle is pulled all the way in the down position, the actuator moves as it is supposed to, but the case inside the assembly does not move far enough forward to pull the case out from beneath the case above, and not into the drop assembly below. When the handle is pressed back in the up position, the case simply stacks in under the case above, and maybe on the second pull it will fall down where it is supposed to. AS you can see, the triangle doo-dad is in the rifle position. Video of malfunction.

Just follow along for abit I hope it will make sense. Machine only has about 3-4K rounds on it. I am loading .308 currently. I know when loading pistol ammo (or short cases) you are to have the triangle doo-dad with the long angle facing the pivot arm, and this allows for a smooth transition of the pivot to allow the case to drop. When loading rifle cases, you are supposed to switch the triangle doo-dad around to allow the straight wall, and sharp angle at the top activate the pivot arm to drop the case, and allow extra dwell time for the longer case to drop through the pivot arm. My problem is, when I switch the triangle doo-dad around for rifle. the steep angle hits the pivot arm, and almost comes to a stop, putting a large amount of pressure on the entire mechanism, and I watch the whole plate system dip down towards the table top before the triangle passes the sticking point and moves the actuator. I am afraid it is going to break the triangle doo-dad mounting parts. Also the actuator pivot arm seems fairly stiff, and will actually get stuck in place if I push it all the way towards the tool head. I have tried lubing it, adjusting the tension on the nylock bolt, checked to make sure the case feed insert is not dragging, checked the body busing is not sticking too high into the body etc. Any ideas? Here is a stock photo to show the area I am speaking about.

Thanks Guys, I guess I will just go separate seating die, whether that be Redding, Whidden, or Forster.

So I have a set of Dillon dies for my 650, but want to adjust the depth of the bullet for load development in .308. I want to use a micrometer adjuster and was wondering if anyone has or if you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Bullet-Seating-Micrometer-Remington/dp/B00RY9RHC4/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2HK7DBG3GSIG5&dchild=1&keywords=hornady+micro+adjust+seating+stem&qid=1575742387&sprefix=hornady+micr%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-9 I can't seem to find dimensions on dillon dies to see if they use ½-20 threads. And I don't really want to spend $120 on a seating die, when I already have a seating die, I just want more adjustability.

I have a few jugs of the stuff on the shelf, and thought I would see if anyone is using this 175GR .308. I might as well try it for PRS practice ammo. Let me know what works.

I know about the micrometer on the powder bar, and that is great if you plan on changing charges. I was thinking of something that may make the chosen charge more accurate. Something like a different shaped powder reservoir, a different deliver system etc.