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Braxton1

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About Braxton1

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    Looks for covered parking at GLOCK
  • Birthday April 13

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    braxton1
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    Male
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    College Park, Georgia
  • Interests
    Shooting, Drag Racing, Exploring the edges of the Internet
  • Real Name
    Bruce Braxton

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  1. A lot of folks grind that lip off of the 19X for precisely that reason. If original equipment aesthetics aren't that important to you, it may be a consideration because it opens up the gun to use all sorts of basepads, both aftermarket and the OEM Gen5 mags.
  2. 80 screen glass beads are pretty standard for matte finishes. I guess a good follow-on question would be "Is that safety 'originally blued, with a hard chrome finish' or is it stainless steel?". If it's originally stainless, go in the direction that you're headed. If it's blued with hard chrome, you could probably send it to one of the hard chromers (like PCPEMark on this Forum) and have it re-chromed.
  3. Taping the trigger safety should not alter your results, since once the TS is depressed, one's finger would be pressing on the trigger itself and initiating movement of the trigger. The "sprung weight" of the TS is negated, not added to the poundage. IMHO, the only true measure of a Glock trigger is on a computerized linear tester like they use at the factory. It graphs out the poundage and the distance traveled. Absent that sort of technology, measuring the pull weight of a Glock (or any double-action gun for that matter) is sorta tricky and quite subjective for the reasons you
  4. I don't know if Production Division is its best role because of the GAP's natural tendency to make Major Power Factor (I'd vote for Limited-10), but it is a fine pistol. I used one for L-10 for a minute. The only thing that I had to do was use some form of hollow magazine base pad. The mag springs were fully-compressed with 10 rounds loaded, so any reloads done with the slide forward required an inordinate amount of force to ensure that the mag seated. The hollow pads allowed the stack to get pushed down by the stripper rail a little easier.
  5. I would doubt that there's a pre-installed Firing Pin Channel Liner. When I build my CO top end a couple of months ago, I am 99% sure that I had to install one. Visually looking for a liner is sort of strange. When you look down the Channel, it will look like there's already a liner in there because the diameter of the hole reduces right there, which can lead one to assume that there's already a Liner in there. I finally figured out that it should look like there is a liner inside of a liner. The factory's "check" to determine if one is in there is to shake the complete slide a
  6. Eric would probably be the one to know, but do the "straight" triggers, such as those offered by Apex, et. al., increase the reach? I haven't played with them, as I am so used to OEM that I'm a-feared to change.
  7. I agree with Davsco, but please remember that Dillon dies were designed for speed, not pure precision. They were designed by a guy who was looking to feed his enormous machinegun collection.
  8. I can't sanction that, but I will say "People do it all the time.". Not counting the closed coils, most will do 1.5 to 3 coils, depending on which primers they're using. Federals can tolerate a lighter spring; CCI's, not so much.
  9. It was a factory option, with its own SKU. Most didn't care for the old-style Adjustables, as they had a tendency to snag on any- and everything. The newer ones are much better about that. I would replace it with an OEM plastic or someone's metal night sights, if it were mine.
  10. An air compressor with a blower nozzle that is handy to the reloading area is a prize. A quick squirt of air every once in a while prevents a lot of problems, but you must be careful to only blow out the powder that you want to. It is easy to blow the powder out of a charged case. I use a fingertip to cover that one case when I give it a blast.
  11. I am no chemist, but is SURE smells like Simple Green to me.....
  12. It's bad photography. The dimensions are correct for the application; just the metal was too soft for it.
  13. While building my new Gen5 G34, I used a lightened steel Firing Pin from GlockStore. I have used titanium Lightning Strike Firing Pins or the lightened steel Zev pin in all of my Gen3 builds, so this seemed like a good plan, considering nobody makes a Gen5 titanium yet. After less than 500 rounds, I started having FTF issues. At first, they were rare, but it got so bad at this week's Steel Challenge match that I was having two to three jams per stage. After the match, I stuck around for a while and shot the remainder of my ammo. I had continued issues, but now had time to actua
  14. The Glock Part Number for what you want is 47698, IF you can find one. It is a 19X barrel, threaded to 1/2x28 RH threads, with a metal thread protector included.
  15. A lot of these launches are due to incorrect installation by the end user. The plates are thin. If the screws used to attach the RDS to the plate are even a smidge too long and bear against the slide itself, that is a recipe for disaster. One must test-fit the RDS to the plate and ensure that there is no protrusion of the screw, but I feel that is true whether it's an OEM plate or aftermarket. (This is no aspersion of the C&H product. It is a fine piece.)
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