want2race

For now! I've heard that in 2013 there will be some rule changes. FINALLY.

There is something else going on. I've been able ignite the hardest of military primers with the latest striker assembly from S&W. Standard factory striker spring. Look at the firing pin block safety. Did you contour it, round it over, install lighter spring etc? I read you have the FSS in one gun, what about the other? Untouched stock or APEX sear or has it been filed on? One of the most important diagnostic things to do is to shoot slow fire and look at the gun before each shot. You need to see the gun BEFORE you have a light strike so obviously this has to be done outside of a match. Visually inspect each round for high primers. I load up 100 round ammo boxes and look across the bases for high ones.

I load 4-5 primer tubes before I want to start loading, usually days before. I put the bullets and cases as close to the press as possilbe. I can load 400+ in an hour on my Square Deal B. That is as long as I have enough bullets and brass sitting there. I look into every case for powder, and I'm pulling/pushing at a moderate pace. I don't like to throw the lever too fast because the shell plate spins too fast.

I carry a basic lock pick set every day. It's just one of those things that's in my bag. I've rekeyed military 200 series locks. Yes, the guy at the gun show made it look easier than it is but with practice it's not that hard for basic locks. I still can't get hockey pucks open though. I've made my own picks out of hacksaw blades but they are a little thick for doors, I use them for larger padlocks.

For about $110 (armorer cost) you can replace everything but slide, frame and barrel. Check that the pins don't slide right out. Inspect the locking block for cracks. If the finish is flaking off, consider replacing it as it's OLD. Look at the front of the slide where the guide rod sits, slides get dropped and the LOVE to land on the little loop that holds the guide rod. The finish will be cracked if it's bent, has been bent. Right off the bat I would replace the firing pin assembly (pin, spring, cups etc), trigger w/trigger bar, trigger spring, connector, firing pin block plunger and spring. Most of this stuff you can replace with more performance oriented items. Inspect the extractor spring loaded bearing, ensure it matches the extractor type (LCI vs non-LCI). As mentioned in the other thread, I have seen a blown out breech face. Had it on my bench.

Sounds like Ranger School tasks thrown into SFAS. Pretty cool. I've shot standard poppers at 100 with both Glocks and 1911. It's suprisingly easy...when you're well rested, not in a hurry, not shooting for score.

Yeah, I guess it was your turn!

The C&S/Extreme Engineering hammers all have a slight undercut at the bottom corner of the hook. They appear to be wire EDM'd and that is a byproduct. As long as your secondary angle isn't too large it shouldn't be to much of a problem. I have experienced the sear diving into the the wire "turn around" space before though.

There is one guy who does random ass car demos. He'll demo a 1974 Buick like it's the greatest car ever, I mean he does a very very thorough walk around and test drive. I read about him in a mag article. He started off making about .30 over 3 months. He now averages $5k A MONTH! He topped out at $6600 in one month. Saabkyle04 is his youtube id. I have not signed any of my videos up for money. One, I don't get many views (I don't sing "Friday" or review cars). Two, I don't want ads cluttering up what I'm trying to watch.

What main spring are you using? Of course some will argue that it "shouldn't matter". I say it does. Friction is friction. I use a different sear jig so I can't answer that one. Try moving the stone side to side to get a polish on it. I cut mine first, then go side to side with the stone to polish it. Carefull with your secondary angle. If you want sub 2#, you need some engagement surface for it to hold onto. I like a little "push" to my trigger pull. It's only noticable when shooting groups (slow fire). At speed I don't feel pretravel, reset, glass-rod, push, nothing. Just recoil. I had mine down to 1.5# and it lasted a long time. Now I'm at 2# because I wanted more reset strength.

Hey, one of those grips looks familiar! Although now it has a double undercut.

Did I miss the Pro Am coverage? Aside from the Junior shooter show?

You would be relying on the extractor to hold the cartridge for the FP to hit the primer. Having the same OAL doesn't change the leade lenght. The rifling gradually starts after headspace ring. If the x19 goes off in the x21 chamber the bullet will have quite a bit of freespace before hitting the lands. Gas will be going around the bullet as soon as it leaves the case. Here's another thought. Cut down 5.56 brass. Although if you can't have 9x19, you might not be able to have .223/5.56 brass either. The diameters are closer than the length difference between 19mm and 21mm. The cut down 5.56 case would fit the 9x21 chamber like .40 in a stock Glock barrel (just a tad loose). Plus, once you shoot them, they'll expand to the chamber anyway. The difference is around .015". Easy, no. Easier than rechambering for 9x19 though. No match would be a "lost brass" match for you...LOL

Spacer might be tough. That will also give a long leade length. Would be easier to fabricate brass. With enough time and money I'm sure the chamber could be drilled out and a completely new 9x19 chamber inserted. I've seen two piece barrels before.

For example. Ryan Newman has an Engineering degree. Yeah, and right now he just drives a car that turns left.

Wow, Blueridge has some stellar advice. There needs to be "some" seperation between work and hobby. Otherwise the enjoyment of the hobby is decreased. However, that said if your job is "similar" to your hobby then you will enjoy your job that much more. I don't shoot for a living, I do however work with guns for a living. I shoot them as needed, but I don't get paid to shoot. If your hobby is "similiar" to your job you will EXCELL at your job. I'm better at my job because of what I do at home. There is a flip side though. You need to be able to disconnect, "turn it off", leave the Matrix, what ever you want to call it. Otherwise a hobby will be an obsession and you will strain family and friend relations. I was in your shoes many years ago. I got my "fix" for trigger time in Ranger Battalion. If you have 10 fingers and toes, take the ASVAB..or whatever they call it now.

Ask your future husband what his second choice would be. Noveske would be mine.

I had read that all ammo must be on belt, but I that was for IPSC matches. I can only think of one reason the load-2 vest (style of loading) would become illegal. Because it takes away the advantage some shooters have that have invested a LOT of time perfecting that technique. If you can't win at the stage, win by the pen.

You don't want the top round to pop out of the feedlips too early. If the mag doesn't hold onto that top round well enough it can induce double feeds.

Looks like they are using Wilson Combat frame/slide kits from Brownells. If the PT magwell is similar to mine, you won't get a bigger hole to throw the magazine at. It's worth it.

Glock striker springs are softer than M&P striker springs. SSS has heavier M&P striker springs but that doesn't really do much to the trigger pull, about 1/2#. Totally different than a Glock.

I liked the show where average joes came in to build a bike in 30 days. I believe it was Russel Mitchell that hosted it. His bikes were flat black and cool. No theme, just flat black...and cool. You needed palmade (hair grease) just to sit on them. Jesse Rooke's bikes apeal to me on a show bike level. I like his KTM cafe racer. His other designs are so minimalist and bare. I like that.

Hotel is reserved for the LexMafia.

2012 SSN's looks to be a one day format, no matter the day you pick.

The pretravel is reduced, the trigger safety is modified to still remain functional. That mod is external.