want2race

I went through a similar process. With glasses I was 20/40L, 20/25R. This allowed my eyes to "automatically" see with my dominant eye ® since it was clearer. With glasses, like you, my focal length was just passed my hands. I could see the sights very well even when looking at the target. I had Lasik about 1.5 years ago. I found that my focal length was much longer and I had to pull my focus back to the front sight exactly as you discussed. If I wore +1 reading glasses, it was MUCH easier to see the front sight, but the target was blurry. I wore them a little while my eyes healed. Now I don't need them, and I've retrained my eyes to focus on the sight better. I have two set ups. 6" slide with .110/.180 front FO, .115 Bomar rear with cropped corners. I find the pyramid shape easy to see around. My 1911 is a 5" with .110/.10 front FO, .125" fixed rear, also with cropped corners. With the shorter sight radius the larger rear notch still looks very similar to the 6" limited gun with smaller notch. I tried a thinner front, but too much light around the front sight takes too much time to align in the notch. The front sight swims around inside the notch and my accuracy (at speed in matches) suffered. Just a sliver of light on both sides tells me that if I can see the front sight through the notch, by sights are aligned. The reason your vision is worse with darker glasses: your vision is crisper with smaller pupils. Wear the lightest tint you are comfortable with. I am light sensitive so I can't wear clear on sunny days. I'll wear a light red tint and it works well for bright sunny days. Cuts down just enough so that I'm not straining my eyes. Too much light and I get tired sooner in the day.

I thought shot calling was point in the stands before the pitch. J/K. If you don't see the sights the instant before the gun lifts in recoil, you don't really know where the bullet is going. Travis Tomasi has a fantastic drill for this. It was on Shooting USA. You should be able to find it.

It's been a while since we've had the classifier list updated. Is our list volunteer still around?

NOTE: You CAN NOT mail it. Must go Fed Ex or UPS. If Frank says OK, make sure you ship to yourself in care of Frank Garcia. Be real careful to do this correctly. Here is the LINK to the BATF FAQ section When I say "mail" I don't mean post office, I mean any form of carrier. Perhaps that was the confusion. B9) May a nonlicensee ship firearms interstate for his or her use in hunting or other lawful activity? Yes. A person may ship a firearm to himself or herself in care of another person in the State where he or she intends to hunt or engage in any other lawful activity. The package should be addressed to the owner. Persons other than the owner should not open the package and take possession of the firearm.

I don't seperate by head stamps anymore. Unless it's chrono ammo, or S&B. I won't reload S&B brass. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/847836/shell-sorter-brass-sorter-9mm-luger-40-smith-and-wesson-45-acp-3-bowl-set

Guess I'm not going on a disney cruise anytime soon. I'm sure it's because of int waters but still they don't have to be like that. You can mail it to yourself a mentioned earlier.

Also, try 1.250". There is no difference between 200 and 185's at the front end. The 185's have a short base. If your gun will feed 200's, it will feed 185's of the same profile (not counting the bullseye profile with longer bearing surface and stubby nose). Then again if you like 230 then there is no point to switch. I like the lighter bullet.

The pawn shop is actually not a bad idea. I used to use one when I was in the Army. I lived in the barracks, getting out a POW for the weekend was a PITA! I would pawn it for $100, when I wanted it for the weekend or to go shoot I would pay them $115 to get it back. The $15 was worth it. Once the CoC found out how I was able to circumvent the system they were PISSED! The less you pawn it for, the less you have to pay since there fee is % based. Just tell them you need a quick buck but will be back in 5 days (or whatever). Or the safety deposit box. Not a very good vacation host if you ask me.

Thanks. I still have an older one with a few thousand rounds through it. I had it LvlIII anodized and as soon as my FGW 5.4 is ready it will have new home. It's good to know they didn't just drop the idea. Does it look the same?

Ordered yesterday. Already got a personalized email thanking me. I only shave about twice a week, so when I do it's like bushwhacking. Looking forward to trying this. Traveling with it makes so much sense to me, no more can to pop.

So is the local smith still distracted by filing down a CZ or can he move on to important things like my gun? Lol, I resemble that remark. Yes, now that the sleazy is pretty I, he... He can work on yours! ETA: ees dun.

I like their stuff in general. I recomend the kit to anyone interested, unless it's a 2011. I use EE (C&S) kits for 2011's, just my preference. The EGW HD hammer is awesome though. Since it's just the secondary angle that needs done, youtube it. You can see how to do with just a stone, no jig. A little tweaky-tweak on the spring, spit and polish and test.

One of your nine sponsors Robby? ahem. Yes the EGW kit is good, but the sears are NOT drop in. They only have primary angle cut, no secondary. The ball type disconnect may need to be fitted to the disconnect hole in the frame. I've had all but one, not even come close to fitting in the hole. THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT of that disconnector. To be fitted to the frame hole. The sear spring is a good one, but if installed as it ships it will not deliver a 2# trigger. To the OP, a 2# drop in trigger does not exist. You will need to work it to achieve that. Even then, there is no gaurantee that it will function properly. If you change to an EGW hammer, be prepared to change the thumb safety. The EGW hammers are excellent and I use them, but they have a slightly different geometry (which is why they are good).

Until you go with steel grip, short dust cover and bushing barrel, it won't feel like the Trojan. I'm in the same boat except my current 2011 is a 6". I love my SS and want my ltd gun to feel the same. You can try to lighten the top end, then add a SS msh and SS magwell. That will add weight to the bottom and it should balance a lot more like thr Trojan.

Then it becomes the question of how fast can YOU physically move. Set your timer to .5 and see if you can even get the gun out and up that fast. Work on that for a bit. Then set the timer at .8 and it will feel like all day.

The frame is easy, it's not hardened. Hacksaw it. Don't waste your time with the rotary tool and cut off wheel. Hacksaw zips right through it. I concur, send out your slide for a ball cut, then match the dust cover to it. Finish it with files. Since you're sending you slide out, might as well get it lightened. Bobby has a new mill that eager to make chips...

Exactly.

Yes, Congrats. I look at all the stuff I used to do as a kid and wonder how my dad let me do what I did. I was riding my dirt bike to the gas station by age 8. I pumped and paid myself. I would be out on my own riding in the desert for hours upon hours. Home by dark. My son is 6 and I don't let him walk 8 houses down the street by himself. I was very independant, but I was also given the freedom to be so. I find it hard to let the leash out that far, but we live in the city. I grew up in the desert, WAY out of town.

Knowing that the shows are edited to achieve a desired result, I saw the writing on the wall about Vince. Will had been treating him like crap for a couple of shows. The stuff they aired also looked to put Vince in a bad light. I'm in it for one more show and then I'm done. I want to see the aftermath when they all get back from Vegas and Vince is gone. Funny though, the main concern seems to be "Crap, our FFL holder just left." Not, "Oh man, what happened to Vince?"

I just watched the episode when Vince left. He left them standing with their cranks in their hands. Hahahaha! Good for him. Pissed me off how he got shat on, at least after editing he did. Chris can dremel an AK but can't ASSEMBLE an AR? It was Chris who lost the buffer, and no that is really not why an AR won't fire on auto. If the disconnect spring is installed wrong, that is why it won't fire more than one. MK18's, MK12'S, M4's etc don't use hydraulic buffers and work just fine.

Mine is on the way.

I pulled out a complete JP trigger for a CMC flat. I like it.

How funny. Old Forester is bottled at the Woodford distillery. Basically the same bourbon, from the same barrels, cheaper bottle. The "sweet stuff" goes in the W bottles, the "OK stuff" goes into O.F. bottles. As I was told from someone who worked there. Good point about the light rail holsters. Especially for a commander length barrel, full dust cover gun. The dust cover will be the same length as a 3/4 rail 5" gun. The STI 5.0 and 4.15 tactical guns use the same frame. If you want leather you are left with using a holster for a 5" gun though. Kydex, well that's easy. "Chop, Cut, Remold" LOL.

Holster selection! That Baer looks great, how many holster options for that one? I use a modified G19 Watch Six for IWB, kydex for owb. I had to heat gun the kydex too.

Cheers!