Farmer

They shoot pretty good out of my old 94 30-30 and 454. One thing that you should be aware of is that the tips can get mashed if not using a proper seating punch. I had to turn one out to fit because my other die sets didn’t have one that would work. A standard spitzer punch will work but it leaves a ring by the serrations.

Funny you mention RV stuff. Friend of mine was just telling me that he was having trouble finding an AGM battery for his boat. When he finally did he asked the guy why so much trouble with finding the batteries. The dealer said it was because of a shortage of plastic for the cases. I figured it was because of all the “off grid” people buying them up. Could be a little bit of both.

Out of my XD 4.5, 3.2g of E3 under a 125g Precision FN gets me 1025 FPS. Very clean, accurate and nice recoil. You could probably bump it to 3.5-3.8 with a 115 or more uummph.

Buffer helps tighten things up but also raises psi. If your loading light you should be ok. Have you tried loading a bit hotter to see if it tightens up? I’ve played with turkey loads and my best groups are generally better when I use stacked cards with a shot wrap. Or the BP Flex Seal, a wad to get the height I need, a .010 thick UHMW wrap & the shot. I just bought some UHMW sheet and cut my own wraps. You can also try different wads to see if that helps and it’s also easier. Some of the Field wads aren’t split as far down and can tighten patterns up. Also have tried steel shot wads as they are stiffer but at closer ranges I’ve had the wad go through the target too.

I’ve noticed that the OP hasn’t replied since this thread took a left at the Tasty-Freeze. Maybe everyone scared him off or he just dug out his hand primer and got to work. That’s what I’d do if I needed ammo!

Let us know how it goes.

Wal-mart had these Arctic Zone coolers. I grabbed the small one (9 cans) for my lunch pail. It has a hard removable liner and best of all NO ZIPPER! They have 3 sizes, 9, 16 and 30 cans. So far it’s lasted 1 1/2 years of tractor and combine use and still going. The zippers are the first things to crap out around here because of the dirt.

Put the VQ kits in my wife’s Light and my std mk4. It was a little light in hers at just under 2 lbs so I just used the factory sear spring which made it right at 3lbs. Over travel and shorter reset is greatly improved.

And they took them? I took a bunch in about 15 years ago and they didn’t want them for fear of live ones in the mix.

I use them to count out steel shot for my waterfowl loads. The large size won’t go through the thrower so I just mask off the holes to get a half load & scoop twice. Actually works pretty fast.

It provides good power with lower psi but don’t fall in love with it as it’s been discontinued. Hodgdon may replace it with a more enviro friendly powder or just use Longshot or maybe Blue to replace it.

Loc-Tite

When you adjust to min flair but no bulge can you see or feel the flair? Have you checked it with a caliper? I’ve seen where there is adequate flair but the case is not round, slightly oval. Have noticed this mostly on 9mm. The bullets will fit but very tightly and will generally scrape a coated one. I had to taper my expander on the tip a little to prevent over expanding of some cases even if the same brand.

If you WSF is dirty you’re not pushing it enough. It’s always been clean for me even with mid loads.

Diameter the same? Are the bases similar to your old bullets? Have you checked seating depth or more important, the distance from the lands?

I’ll have to try that when my turtle wax runs out. Just happened to have the TW sitting around at the time. Simple Green is another good cleaner.

Did you make sure it was organic and non gmo? I’ll have to grab a bag of that when the Lemi runs out. Lots of other good uses for it around the house.

I get the best accuracy and consistency with .001 crimp. You can’t just state that it has to be .375 or .377 because of brass thickness differences and bullet size. I think more coating damage is done by the sharp edge on the inner case mouth cutting the coating. Even at that, the small surface that is cut shouldn’t cause leading. NOW if that crimp sizes the base of the bullet down too far and you get flame cutting, then yes you’ll get leading.

I always compare with other brass of known manf. As an example Buffalo is made by Starline. I just cringe whenever someone says they threw away a bunch of brass because they didn’t recognize the name, or don’t like the way it looks. It doesn’t take hardly any time to do some measuring and comparing.

I bought some last year and wish I’d gotten more. Shoots very accurately in all my 22’s. Is a little waxy but other than that it’s good stuff.

Always order spares, it will guarantee that it’ll never break again!

2X right here!

I use them in my 327 with no problem. Same with my wife’s SP100 with a spring kit. Try dropping about .3 on the charge for starters if your close to max.

Does anyone know if there’s component shortages elsewhere on the planet or is the US just special?

Does the sizing die for that have a neck expanding ball like a rifle die or just a primer recapping pin and you then expand with a separate expander? If it’s like a rifle die the expander ball may be pulling the shoulder forward decreasing the headspace. Just a thought.