Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

919 profile views

midatlantic's Achievements

Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. small market for 3 gun...
  2. midatlantic

    That new TS2

    Just saw a tricked out Ts2 at cz custom with its stock iron sights. Given where the sport is going, for good or bad, what would one use it for in competition? A 9mm limited gun? Not CO, not open, not production...steel challenge? What am I missing? I regret that so much of USPSA is going to optics or PCC...someone tell me the market for a 9mm Ts2. (Other than having a very nice gun of course.) Ditto with the vapor-ware DWX.
  3. midatlantic

    TSO sale...

    Seems CZCustom has put their TSOs, 9 and 40, on sale, knocking off $300. They know something we dont? https://czcustom.com/in-stock.html
  4. So after my rant yesterday this is what I found today. I pulled everything apart again and cleaned the primer slide, the base, and the bottom of the primer magazine tube once again, removed the primer punch bushing, re adjusted the punch. And then put it all together again and this time it worked. The only thing I can think of is that even though the primer punch bushing looked like it was flush it wasn’t flush enuf. Or maybe my prior cleanings, with alcohol and cotton fabric, were insufficient. As for the primer punch it easing high enough I am at a loss to explain why it worked today and why it didn’t work yesterday. Clearly there’s some adjustment I did this morning that I missed yesterday, I can’t tell you what it was.
  5. The lever arm was fine, and the tool head was bolted on and torqued.
  6. Hi all, I have a 1100 that I run with a Mk 7 drive. Yesterday I was loading 9mm. everything ran fine, except the primers were not always seating fully in the primer slide, and sometimes got caught on the edge of the shell plate, jamming the press. Figured I just needed to replace the blue tip on the primer magazine. I did that this morning - that was the ONLY difference in the set up - and then loaded the machine with primers etc to continue loading 9mm. Then the following happened. First, the primer punch (item 4 on page 67 of manual) would not rise high enuf to seat the primer in the case. Yesterday that was not a problem. I removed the punch, spring, rocker arm and rocker bolt, and primer tappet and cleaned and lubricated everything. Still no good. I did it again. Reassembled, no difference. Punch would still not rise high enough to seat primer, and in fact barely rose above the bushing. I adjusted the primer push rod in the tool head...bit by bit, moving it eventuall by 1/4 inch at least! Now, I've loaded about 15,000 9mm and .40 and have never previously had to adjust the push rod more than a couple of turns one way or the other. I also replaced the punch spring. Yet the punch still would not seat a primer. I ran the press and watched the rocker arm move up and down its full length of travel, yet the punch only rose about even with the base of the shell plate....and yes, the shell plate is fully seated. I called Dillon. I measured the punch - in spec. They wanted photos. And, believe this or not, my damned iPhone camera didnt work! Apple ran diagnostics online and said it a chip had apparently detached,,,,need repair! So until my phone gets fixed I went back down and for the third time took it all apart, and began to put it together and.....found that when I installed the the primer feed body assembly its base now rubbed on the primer slide....which now would not move! I back the screws out a half turn, and the slide slide, but the assembly wobbled. I removed the assembly and found the slider slid fine. There is no interference from the punch or the punch bushing. All are totally clean. The bottom of the feeder assembly tube has no damage. Reinstalled the primer feed body, part 7 on page 70, and tightened the screws down as I have done many times before, even removed the primer magazine just in case...and the primer slide again would not move, as it was jammed in place by the bottom of the feeder assembly. So with Dillon waiting for photos, which I cant send until next week, I need help. Whats going on???!!!???
  7. DDC, good points on the index lever and shoulder. Will order now. Since I last posted, Now you know how I spent my Sunday afternoon, I replaced the stock index pawl with the Forcht heavy duty..I already had it just hadn’t installed it, and cleaned the spring etc., and I pulled apart the Mk 7 pulley etc and cleaned and reinstalled that. Seems to have solved my indexing problem. Perhaps some erratic operation of the mk7? Not sure. Now I’m waiting on a new Dillon 9mm shell plate. im also intrigued by your two pass strategy. So it’s one pass to Decap and resize and swage, and another to prime, powder and bullet?
  8. I have an 1100 with the Mk 7. My first bit of advice would be to get the powder sensor, because when you takeoff the ratchet in the rear I found it to be far too easy to double charge or under charge a cartridge. Plus the way the mark seven powder sensor is designed you have both a visual reference you can watch and the tablet will turn the machine off with an over under charge. I found the mk 7 1100 Combination to be pretty finicky. you have to get the Dillon working exactly correctly, And keep it there. Trial and error. I also found Dillon recommend cleaning intervals to be to low. When they recommend every 10,000 rounds I’d suggest every six or seven. Pay very close attention to the primer system. Also the indexing ball and spring. I switched to the composite ball and I’m going back to the stainless steel ball and new spring after a failure to index correctly bent a 9 mm shell plate. The shell plate indexing suddenly became erratic and the swagger bent the plate on an upstroke. Not sure of the cause, but can’t fix it w existing ball and spring. So ordering new. Keep the Primer feed tubes clean. I think you need to clean every five or 600 primers or else risk a up a jam in the tube then it becomes a mess. In the past I’ve considered myself a decent home mechanic. I do my own gun smithing, built 1911s and a 2011, had no problems with the 650, I’ve built a couple of plywood sailing dinghies etc. But the 1100/mk 7 Has never allowed me to load more than five or 600 rounds before a stoppage or some other problem that involve disassembling the primer system or some other parts. It may be me, but that’s my experience. I’ve had the system for about five months…still finding new ways to cause new problems:) the max I’ve loaded is 1500 rph.
  9. Thanks all. Talked to Dillon tech and yes, as noted above the actuating lever was bent. Just 2 or 3 degrees off axis but that was enuf. Put it in the vise and bent ever so slowly back. Seems to be working.
  10. DDC - the lever seems to only be adjustable up and down on the primer tube shield. It seems the springs that move the lever fore and aft need to be stronger, but no where have I seen instructions on how to adjust. Got any? and, to be clearer, the failure to retract varies....sometimes its a quarter of an inch, sometimes, 1/16, sometimes more... Hogrider, yeah, Ive seen the video. Did all that....
  11. The primer slide on my Dillon 1100 will no longer fully retract on the up stroke. So a new primer cannot be loaded into the slide. The slide and frame are very clean, moves easily by hand. The lever does not touch the frame as it moves. It retracts the slide about 3/4 of the necessary length. It can easily be pushed rearward by hand the rest of the way. The cotter pin etc are cleaned and greased, Anyone have any idea?
  12. Thanks for all the advice. I put it in the freezer for a few hours, then did the kroil oil thing recommended above. Let it sit for a few hours. Then I used a heavy duty needle, like for a sail or canvas, and carefully tapped it in between the case and chamber. Did it on two sides and then used forceps to easily remove it. thanks all for the advice.
  13. Hi - A case separated during a match today in my TSO 40. But it split laterally, side to side. The bullet went out the barrel, and the slide ejected the bottom half. I couldn't figure out why no other rounds would fit until I got home under a bright light saw that the top third or so of the case was fire-formed against the inside of the chamber. How do I get that out? I can't push it out with a brass rod because the mouth head spaces against the chamber, leaving nothing for the pusher to push. At the breach end I can't think of a tool sharp enough and thin and strong enough to force between the brass case and the chamber. I need something that will withstand being wedged between the brass case and steel chamber, but because of the curvature of the chamber it has to be very sharp. Maybe a heavy duty canvas needle? All thoughts welcome. One thought is the temperature sensitivity of steel vs brass. Which shrinks more if I put it the freezer?
  14. midatlantic

    TSO trigger

    Just want to give a shout out to Cajun Gunworks's "10080 Tactical Sport Hammer Kit". I installed it my TSO .40 and it made an already great trigger better. While it may very marginally increase trigger weight - hard to tell - what it does do is provide a VERY crisp, clean break, which makes placing longer shots easier and more accurate. Really worth it for anyone competing with the gun, no matter what caliber. This is unpaid and unsolicited praise.
  15. Well, cough cough....It was my thumb rest. When I gripped hard with my left hand and thumb it was pressing the slide stop (I know, use the pin) upwards on recoil....duh. I lost three second on a classifier cause of that:(
  • Create New...