Farmer

I guess everyone should have asked what powders do you have on hand?

Also helps teach responsibility and honesty. Two things that are lacking nowadays. If you cheat a kid they’ll remember that forever.

Ahhh yes, how nice it is for the consumer to do all the R&D work for these companies without compensation.

What I find interesting is how some rounds/loads will drop velocity at a certain length and then pick back up an inch later. And don’t say barrel drag because it shouldn’t return at the next longer length. It’s either mis-data or maybe harmonics or the moon’s gravity.

Here ya go. You can compare many lengths. http://ballisticsbytheinch.com/9luger.html

I don’t care if it’s an afternoon outlaw fun shoot or a professional match, it should be run by the same rules. The way I see it if one or two people go on from a “fun” shoot to an actual competition they’ll be familiar with the routine. Let’s call it a training session.

Like 4nt20 I kept having a bad sticking problem on my Lee dippers when I used them. I had a pound of e3 close by and just tossed it inside, shook it around and problem solved. It will re-stick wherever you touch it though. It even keeps Tightwad from sticking and that stuff’s the worst.

@-JCN- If the regular Simple Green works that well maybe the Extreme would do better. I found that the EX holds more contaminants in suspension better than most cleaners. It also has no odor. I used Super Clean on a lot of stuff but it’s a little iffy with aluminum. The SG EX is safe for that. The carbon off works but is fairly irritating to the skin and doesn’t play well with plastic. I do the same in my sonic cleaner with jars with carb parts. Keeps from stinking up the cleaners pan.

I know it’s crazy obvious but is there power at the outlet?

Looking good! I like your idea of making those old cracked cases work.

Did it go home with you?

I wonder how this would work? I have only tried it on a sheet pan and it worked great. They also make it in a liquid. Haven’t tested it on bluing though.

I’d just do it myself. Maybe after a few others see how much easier it is to see it may catch on. Either that or they’ll all want you to go first.

Around 11/4/23 I bought an 8 pounder for $280 so $60 increase in 5 months.

That’s similar to what I’ve found also. Can use about .2 less for similar fps which equals about 50 more rounds per lb. I also noticed it’s a tad cleaner than 231 at the lower loadings but will still get sooty if you really lug it. It was one of the only powders that worked well with a 90g Sierra JHP in my 327 FM. Good vel with excellent accuracy.

I’m thinking that 244 is part of the “clean” enviro friendly push on powders and may replace 231/HP38. My testing of it got interrupted but it showed promise. One thing I did notice was that the recoil felt a bit sharper than 231, But I hadn’t chronoed the two loads, and the 244’s certainly could have been faster. It does seem more energetic than 231 though. I have several to re-test when time allows.

Rocket Surgery??

That’s the way I do it at home. Mags and whatever is laid out first, gun is loaded and made ready last. Just makes more sense and things don’t get forgotten. If there’s a problem up range the shooter is asked to stand by keeping pointed down range. If it’s something time consuming then ULSC. Just my 2 cents.

Sad to see them close. I had just gotten some to try and had ordered some more when I found out they were done. I would have ordered more if I had any idea they were closing. In my guns they are more accurate than blues.

That tool is more for squaring up the bottom and correcting the depth. It will remove the crimp ring but is a real PITA doing so. The Lyman VMD reamer actually works the best overall without a swager.

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All I know is if you search on here you’ll find a lot of post complaining about having to clean the Smurf poo out of ports and other coatings too. Apparently it melts and welds itself to the ports.

You just don’t want to use coated with a ported or comped bbl. You can but it gets ugly.

I do mine on a Lee APP or if there’s just a few, (50 or so) I’ll use my RCBS swager. Some of those like you said have a hell of a crimp and I’ll use the 60 or 45 countersink on them even after the swager to radius the edges to make priming smoother. If your setup on your 550 to do it and their light that may be the way to go with the amount you have. I’ve never used a 550 so don’t know about that. Most of the time the 45 CS will get down in there and do the job. I’m like you, I have a hard time tossing brass unless it’s totally unusable.