Farmer

If their close to the same age I just pour into the new jug. If there’s several years difference I’ll run the old stuff down as much as I can then pour into the new jug. If your working with a half a measure in a 8# jug it doesn’t much matter. Shaken not stirred.

Late to the show here. One other issue I’ve seen with forming brass is that some will be thicker on one side of the neck. Usually starts to show up after a few reloading’s but you’ll start to notice a bulge on one side of the neck when the bullet is seated. The bulge is usually the thin side and can make chambering a problem. Generally just turning down the high/thicker side will gain a few more reloading’s.

Have used it in a bolt gun with success. Mainly 150g hunting loads. Your 175 should help it work better.

Was wondering if that’s how the hole got there.

Had gotten a quart of Frankford Arsenal brass cleaner with my tumbler when I bought it and had used about half of it. Was going to do a batch yesterday and noticed my measuring bottle had mold in it. Looked inside the jug and sure enough the solution was moldy and stunk. Wasn’t impressed with it’s performance anyway and this just sealed the deal. The Lemi-Shine, turtle wax/plow wax combo I use works much better. Pays to take a look in the bottle before dumping it in your tumbler.

Finally got around to getting new punches. Lee wasn’t answering the phones so just emailed them and they sent two new ones out. The small primer punch is quite a bit shorter with more radius than the old one. It does work better and no more rings. Thanks for the tip about contacting them, obviously there was a problem.

Yeh the adjustable bar doesn’t go back far enough for light loads and gets really radical. I’ve had pretty good luck with the lighter loads with the disks. I have put masking tape inside of the holes of the disks to get closer with pretty good success. Have heard of people drilling and inserting a Allen screw to adjust volume but haven’t tried that yet. I like to be able to “undo” things. With your epoxy at the front it should help.

Just looked and with a 124 Precision FP I used 4.3 and with a 170g Precision FN in the 10mm 6.0g makes a nice accurate target load.

3.9-4.3 works really good for me in the 9. I used it in everything for quite a while, even target loads in the 44 mag.

Are you using the disks or the adjustable bar upgrade?

They seemed to have cleaned it up a bit. I always had a love/hate for it because the old formula was filthy and stinky, but at the same time very accurate. Haven’t tried any of the newer stuff but have heard it’s much cleaner. I heard one fellow call the old stuff “flammable dirt”.

Not at a match but dip sh*ts like this really set me off.

I’ll have to look but I think I have some 41, 45 ACP ball.

The Speers that I’ve shot are very accurate in my guns

Most all that I’ve gotten has been Starline, WW and Fed. There’s a few PPU and others but mostly made up of the above. The first orders I got they were also only 2.5 cents apiece.

Lucas too. Leaves a tough film and a little goes a long way. Works good on small electric motors too. Does seem to get thicker with cold temps.

Had good luck here with 9mm & 10mm, prices have gone up slightly lately. I think it’s mostly from police ranges, test firings ect. Cleaned not processed. http://www.oncefiredbrass.com/index.aspx

That was exactly the first thing I saw too.

I’ll have to look but I’m thinking $25-32 per K depending on reg or match.

I would do it without even thinking but doing so makes me shoot to the left. It feels solid and comfortable and maybe if I worked on it some I may get it to work. But with thumbs forward and under the trigger guard I shoot straight.

FWIW International Clays does not play well in metallic loadings. It gets Very spikey and just doesn’t work well. There’s lots of better choices out there.

From the pic it almost looks like Universal Clays and that would match up to a light load. The thing you don’t know is, was it a lack of or bad powder or faulty/contaminated primers? You could go through the trouble of re-powdering them only to find the primers are bad. I have figured out some mystery powders but some take lots of research and comparing.

Never know, they may transfer more energy and work out pretty good.

I too have found that those shoot better, even the plated ones with the cup. Think it helps the base seal better. Bevel base are the worst.

Are they undersized or too hard? I was just going by another poster that had good luck with them.