Doublehelix

On the topic of softer "mouse fart" loads... Yes, I do reload. I have been using 9mm mouse fart loads for a while, and I find that they are just too unreliable to use consistently. I have a whole collection of recoil springs that I have worked through for the SIG, and just when I think I have it worked out, I start getting random failures that are just not worth it for competition. I gave up and went back to full power 9mm loads with the standard spring. I did work up some .40 minor loads based on some advice I received on this forum, and actually found some decent soft .40 loads, but after my 9mm experiences, I am not sure I want to take a chance. If I can work up a minor load that uses my standard 12# spring for my 2011, I will consider it, but in the back of mind, I will always be expecting a FTF or FTE. I worked up some light loads with Bayou 140, 155 and 165 gr. bullets, and then even some minor loads with my standard BBI or Blue 180's. I will have to go back and look at my data again to see which ones I favored, but I did find a couple of really great loads that seemed to work with my 12# spring in limited testing. EDIT: I just went back and checked a couple of the light load's chrony data, and I had a decent load for the Bayou 140's at about 129 PF (4.2 WST at 1.180"), and a 155 gr. that I got to 134 PF (3.8 WST at 1.180"). I am just not sure I want to go down that rabbit trail again after my bad experiences with the 9mm soft loads... I really appreciate the advice and suggestions so far.

I have gone around and around on this for a while: Should I get a 9mm conversion kit for my 2011 (currently chambered in .40) for shooting steel challenge matches? I am currently shooting a SIG SAO 9mm in Limited, and it is so different from my USPSA Limited gun that I have a difficult time switching back and forth, especially on back-to-back match days like I had this past weekend (steel on Saturday, USPSA on Sunday). I have considered going single stack and getting a Pointman or something, but that means a change in division, and I would rather stick with limited if I can. Looks like a new upper is going to cost in the $1,000+ range (slide, barrel, recoil rod/spring, extractor, firing pin/spring, sights, plus machine fitting work). Add mags to that cost... For slightly more, I can buy a whole gun in single stack. Otherwise, I think I am just going to start shooting steel with my .40 and say "screw it". It would be a heck of a lot cheaper! Thoughts?

You are going to love it, trust me. I watched a couple of YT videos from DAA on how to adjust and fine-tune the collator, and that helped a lot. I am so impressed, totally exceeds my expectations. Can't wait to process a large batch!

Once again, thanks everyone for the great advice. I bought more primer tubes (I now have 10 SP and 10 LP), and the Mr. Bullet Feeder on Friday. Had matches on both Saturday and Sunday, so even though I got it mounted and "sort of" working on Friday night, I wasn't able to get it adjusted and working perfectly until this afternoon. Pretty SWEET!!! ? As others have mentioned, this is really a GREAT upgrade, much better than I expected. Took my about 8 minutes to load 100 rounds, and that included 2 cases where the primers did not get popped out properly and 2 upside-down cases from the case feeder ?. It is smooth as silk, and really speeds up the process. This was just a 100 round test run to make sure everything is working right, so now I will get out my Vibra-Prime and load up 1,000 primers, and pump out 1,000 rounds and see how she works in a production mode where I have to replenish primers, cases and bullets.

As others have stated, the Labradar is pretty amazing, but expensive. I love @Foxbat comment: Haha! Brilliant!!!

Great advice so far, but I also think you need to limit the number of drills you perform on one day. 2-3 skills at a time, no more. As Cha-Lee says, this all depends on what you need to work on most at any given time. Common drills for me currently (not at the same time obviously) as I work on shooting sooner and accuracy: -Bill Drill -Blake Drill -El Prez -Accellerator -Small dot accuracy drills at 7/10 yds -Large dot accuracy drills at 25 yds -WHO and SHO drills at 10 yds A couple of months ago, I was really focused on movement drills and entry and exit work. Still have a long way to go there, but right now, my biggest needs are addressed by the list above.

I am a G-Rx user too, and I absolutely *hate* it. I found that the U-die wasn't 100% reliable, I would get a few that would not pass, which I guess is not a deal-killer. Like @inkballedtarget mentions, I could throw those in the training ammo bucket. My biggest complaint with the U-Die is that it is so hard to use. The cases get stuck and are really hard to remove from the die on the upstroke (Dillon XL650). I hate reloading with the u-die because of this. I have tried some One Shot lube, and that doesn't really help. A little Imperial sizing lube helped, but is obviously a pain in the butt to use for pistol cases and is not a practical solution. So combine the failure rate with the difficulty in using, and I have taken the u-die back off. Do others have the same problems with the u-die where it becomes so much harder to load? I have resigned myself to using the hated Redding G-Rx setup for my competition rounds where I get 100% success. This thing absolutely KILLS my elbow however and takes forever!!! I just hate doing it. Someone needs to invent a better solution that doesn't cost $2,000.

Hilarious for sure!!! I think you need approval however to use corporate logos from each company, otherwise Techwear won't add them, but it would be a great conversation starter at a match, that is for sure!

I have a pair of the custom-molded plugs as well. Went to a hearing aid shot where they tool a mold. Within about 5 days, I had my custom plugs back for $180. Definitely pricey, but they work so much better than anything else I have tried, including Decibulz and Radians (I have both, neither attenuate enough). The little foam plugs are OK, but the custom plugs definitely work better and are far more comfortable. I also have a pair of Walker's Silencer electronic ear plugs that I took in to the same hearing aid shop, and for another $180 ? I had them make custom plugs for these as well. They don't attenuate quite as well as the regular custom-molded plugs, but they are pretty close. The regular plugs are fine when I am out training on my own, but at a match, I hate them because I can't hear anyone talking to me! The Walker's paired with the custom molds are the key there. They work much better than I expected them too honestly. On their own (without the custom plugs), they just don't attenuate enough, but with the custom-molded plugs, they are really great. So basically, for $360, I have two solutions: a standard pair of custom-molded plugs that block out everything, and a set of molded plugs that incorporate my Walker's Silencers. Best of both worlds. I can't stand the ear muffs due to discomfort after hours at a match. They get hot and sweaty, and they press against my eye protection and are just not very comfortable, especially in the hot, humid months. Sometimes I will double bag when it is my turn to shoot, but just keep plugs in when I am not at the line or on the COF.

Great to hear. I was planning on picking up 5 more primer tubes as well (that would give me 10). My local shop has one in stock, but I can't get there until Thursday (today is Sunday) due to an upcoming crazy week. Hopefully this bridges my over for a while and then I can decide on whether to upgrade to a 1050 or an Evolution. Thanks to everyone for great advice.

I'm not sure a Mark 7 on the 650 is such a great idea, at least for me. I think if I automate a press, it will be the 1050 or the Evolution. I do know that I have to do something. At this rate, I just can't keep up.

It looks like the Evolution is $2,700 (includes bullet feeder) vs. $1,800 for the 1050 (which I think includes dies). So if you add the bullet feeder to the 1050, you are at about $2,250. Hmmmmm... seems like the way to go depending on how they function out in the field. I like the 10 station setup where I can keep the powder check and still have the bullet feeder and separate seat and crimp stations. I am probably going to be pick up a MBF this week and put it on my 650. Even if I go with an Evolution sometime I can still take advantage of the MBF for the 650 for other task, or just sell the package, who knows. That would certainly help pay for the Evolution.

Ugh. Seems like I never have enough completed ammo or enough time/desire to go down and crank out more. Mostly .40 for Limited USPSA, but also some 9mm for SCSA. I used to really enjoy reloading, and I guess I still do to some extent, but during the shooting season it becomes a chore to keep up. I need to stockpile better over the winter I guess. I think I have become a "reloads to shoot" kind of guy nowadays rather than having reloading be a hobby into itself like it used to be. I am currently using an XL650 with the case feeder, and my throughput seems to be about 500 an hour or so. I also have the Frankfort Vibra-Prime for loading primer tubes, which works great for CCI SPP, and I load up 5 tubes at once, and then crank away. My thoughts now are to buy a Mr. Bullet bullet feeder (although I am going to lose my powder check die), which should help a bit, and can be used for whatever my next upgrade is depending on which way I go. That next upgrade would be to start manual with either a used/rebuilt 1050, and then upgrade later to an automated system (Mark 7 or Autobot), or just jump into a new Mark 7 Evolution and automate that later as well. Questions: 1) Will I see much of a throughput increase by adding the bullet feeder to the XL650? 2) How much of a jump will it be to go to a manually-operated 1050 from the 650? (case feeder and bullet feeder) I saw another thread on here that was encouraging: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/260841-thinking-about-moving-to-a-1050-from-a-650/ The prices of *used* 1050s seem to be in the $1,200 to $1,400 range, which does not give a whole lot of savings honestly. At $1,400, I could add in another $400 and get a new one with the year warranty and some dies. But... at $1,850, I could save a bit more and get an Evolution. Dang. It is never easy.

Those look nice, but also are a bit pricey. I get *why* they cost what they cost, but still...

Did you have the problem when using your standard grip, or your off-hand grip? I am fine with my standard grip.

They have updated the firmware a couple of times since the initial Bluetooth activation release. I think they are up to 1.2.2 (or maybe 1.2.1, not 100% sure on that).

OK, wait a minute! I have never had to power down my unit to add a new string.. Never!!! I have always used an external battery pack and have never even put internal batteries into my unit. ^^^This^^^ is the key right here. You need to hold down the armed button for several seconds to return to the review screen. I have done this hundreds of times without issues. Literally. I can see one unit that has a problem and might be broken/defective, but it sounds like from the posts above that several users are having this problem. I know this is an old post and hopefully folks have figured this out by now.

I added a Nitrofin thumb rest on my 2011, and now I find that I am having slide lock back issues when I shoot-weak hand only due to my hand hitting the slide lock thumb rest. (I am a right-handed shooter, so this problem is when shooting left-handed.) I am trying to work on technique to fix this, but it has been suggested that I file the Nitro Fin to remove the slide lock feature altogether. I am not sure that I want to do this, but it is probably the best thing to do. Does anyone else have this problem with their Nitro Fin (or the PT thumb rest)? Suggestions?

So many people talk about getting a grip to fit your hand, but how can you judge proper grip size? What "feels" right? Is there some measurement that you look for?

Congratulations, however 167 PF is a bit too close for me, I like to make sure I can make Major PF no matter the weather or the ES. You have almost a 30 fps spread (which is not bad), but it would not pass the 165 Major requirement. You might want to consider bumping that up slightly to give yourself a safety cushion, especially considering changes in the weather. Don't take a chance at failing a chrony test and having to shoot minor.

High school!!! Haha! Love it!!! ? You are probably right! I do have to say on the topic however: Been shooting a lot lately, maybe too much. Had a match yesterday where I really needed a good classifier to move up a notch, and I put way too much pressure on myself. Worst day I have had in a long time. Decided to take this upcoming week off totally. No dry fire, no nothing. Mental and physical rest are needed periodically, and I am at that point.

I am loading 4.6 WST behind a BBI 180 gr. coated bullet in my 5" Benny Hill STI Limited at 1.180".

Wolff 12lb in my Benny Hill-made Limited .40.

I have been using Weapon Shield Oil for a while now, and love it. I also started using the Weapons Shield Grease on the slide rails on a few of my guns, and it seems to work really great, but for some reason I was not feeling the love on my Limited competition gun, so I switched back to just oil. I ordered some Slide Glide about a month ago, but have not tried it yet.

I shot a custom sight tracker gun recently, and I have to admit that it was nice. I am not sure that I would pay to have this done to my next gun however. Like @CHA-LEE and others have said, more things to go wrong, harder to fix if it breaks, etc. I am shooting Limited with a lightened slide (ported), and that is far as I want to go.