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Found 8 results

  1. I just got my replacement LabRadar after the first one arrived damaged, not from shipping but from lack of quality control at the factory. I've not had must time on it but first impressions is that it has a big learning curve. 'Read the manual' and watch videos before you try it out. This is not intuitive and it takes many rounds of trial and error to get it right. -I've found that a USB battery pack is sufficient to power it in case you don't have 2A batteries. -You need to have the gun barrel about 4 inches away from either side and it must be mid device, not higher than center or lower, almost exactly in the middle. -Adding new strings require you to turn off the device and back on. Not sure if this is by design or a defective unit. I've heard that they are coming out with firmware updates for connection to a mobile app. Does anyone have the inside track on whether it will have Bluetooth connectivity or USB. Release date? Is anyone using this for IDPA or USPSA matches? I'd like to hear more about how it compares to other Chronos.
  2. This program will run on Microsoft Office as a macro file. So you will need Office installed. The program imports the CSV file on your SD card and gives it the correct formatting. Then it will adjust the size and insert frames and color. There is also a option for fonts and adding Load data text. The program has also a auto update function for future releases. For downloads, go to: Download MagnetoSpeed Tools YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yIZn7-xzUiM
  3. Wanting to get people's actual experience with using the Magnetospeed on their handguns. Before folks start talking about the Labradar it is not an option at my indoor range as I am not allowed to have my muzzle back far enough to align itself with the LR at the shooting position. I already contacted LR re the use of the Doppler trigger and they said it would probably not work in my application. Also, due to physical problems outdoor ranges are not practical for me. So...I am interested in getting some real-world feedback. The handguns that I am most interested in using it with are 1) RIA 1911 with rail; 2) CZ Sp-01; 3) Glock 17; 4) Desert Eagle that only has a top rail (Mark XIX-44mag); 5) Ruger GP100 (no rail). Thanks in advance!
  4. Seeing if any of guys running a lab radar have had weird issues with it indoors. I've used mine a bunch out doors and it's fine. Indoors it can get a little weird. I tried to chrono a buddy's open gun today and it did not seem to want to pick up shots at all or at least with great error. I tried all sorts of settings, lowering the sensitivity, changing the offset, I even tried turning it on it's side and shooting over it. It just did not like it at all with errors and sometimes it would just shut off. After trying non comp'd guns (glock & 1911) and getting results we thought it was the concussion. So I tried my 50ae and it worked fine as well. So we chalked it up to errors from disturbances caused by the comp, but don't really know for sure. Outdoors with comp'd AR's, M1's, bolt guns, etc it's perfect. I guess indoors the challenge for any chrono. It's a great chrono but not infallable. Anyone have any sucess trying to chrono an open gun shooting 9 major in a 7 lane indoor range? If so please let me know your settings. Thanks!
  5. In preparation for several major matches in the area, a club performed a chronograph check at a local match last weekend. About 6% of the competitors failed to meet their declared PF. This included several experienced competitors. So remember this! The average velocity (and hence PF) you measure at the range will always be better than the official USPSA chronograph results. Yes, it is true! The two measurements are like comparing apples and oranges. It has nothing to do with the small differences between chronographs and of course all the laws of physics apply equally in both cases. So how can I say that? It is strictly because of the number of rounds used to determine the average velocity in each case. To pass the official PF test the first time, only 3 rounds are used compared to 8 or more rounds we typically use at the range. The bottom line is that velocity is random in nature and the best way to understand and manage it is to use statistics. So statistically speaking, the term “better” means less uncertainty. We can quantify this uncertainty in terms of probability which can easily be determined from statistical tables. My post "Reloading to Meet PF with Confidence" located here ( http://www.brianenos...opic=229005&hl= ) illustrates the problem and provides a very simple solution. Also in this post, there is an example which compares the probability of being at or above the same average velocity in each case (at the range versus a USPSA chrono). Using 8 or more samples the result is at least 97.3%, but using 3 samples the result is only 85.2%. And it is important to note that the two results can be much farther apart. A seemingly obvious solution is to just chrono your ammo using 3 rounds. The problem is that using only 3 samples causes wild variations in the results and you will drive yourself crazy trying to get any type of consistent measurement. The good news is that the link above provides a very simple solution to avoid this problem. For a better explanation and more examples, see page 70 of the Jan/Feb 2015 edition of FrontSight Magazine.
  6. OK. So after probably close to four months of anxiety, reading, laziness, 'it's too hot outside to work on the bench' isms after getting my Dillon 650 I finally sat down and worked all the kinks out and got my first 20 bullets of .223 loaded with 8208 XBR. I started with X-Treme Bullets 55 Grain FMJ and based on the limited data http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle?&CartridgeName=223+Remington&OrderBW%5B%5D=55&Manufacturer%5B%5D=All&Powder%5B%5D=IMR+8208+XBR had I started with the lowest number of 21.5 Grains. I only managed to crush one .223 brass while setting up the dies (the crimp die oops) and with no primer explosions even though I put them in upside down (sigh) and had to take it all apart to get them out of there I finally got the rounds loaded and looking good on everything I could measure with. I took them out to the range yesterday and fired them through my chrono. I accomplished the three important things. They Didn't Explode, I didn't shoot my Chrono (it was at 25 yards) and I didn't shoot the light stand I bought for my camera gear that cost more than the chrono. This is the data I got. My question is, other than 'knowing' from other sources that I should use more powder, is there some kind of math you would do to decide what grain to go to next to get up to the 2700 FPS range? I have the Lyman manual and the 'ABC's of Reloading' book and I read those once but I don't remember seeing that. Is it trial and error? if so, what's a decent number to increase your load by ? I checked all the fired brass and they looked no different from the production brass I also fired after for comparison. The primers were dented and not blown back flat, there was no splits/cracks on the re-fired brass. My brass was once fired by me in the same rifle and picked up and cleaned & re-used. Thanks for any comments.
  7. Has anyone heard about whether these folks will/when they might sell product? I like the idea but it's been a (long) while since they originally announced it.
  8. I have a ProChrono Digital chronograph. Like everyone, I'm trying to get the most accurate bullet velocity measurement of my hand loaded ammunition. I shoot in USPSA's Production division. Is the distance from the end of the gun barrel to the chronograph critical? It seems like lots of people walk up to a Chrono and estimate that they are 10 feet from the unit and start shooting (controlled shooting under an RO of course). Does it make any difference between shooting at 8, 10 or 12 feet from the chrono? Is it worthwhile to measure 10 feet with a tape measure? Does the path of the bullet through the chronograph make a difference? I usually shoot towards the top of the two arches on a ProChrono Digital. I do that to avoid hitting the chrono, but recently got to thinking that shooting high might be affecting the accuracy of the chrono. Is it more accurate to shoot right down the center of the chrono's tunnel?
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