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About Doublehelix

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday June 9

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    Shooting sports, photography, family.
  • Real Name
    James Duncan

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  1. Doublehelix

    Dillon Vs. Alternative Maker Dies

    I recently started using a Dillon crimp die for my coated lead bullets, seems to work MUCH better than the Lee FCD on lead. Not as much squish on bullet which equals higher accuracy.
  2. Doublehelix

    40S&W Major Reloading Cost

    Still more than 9 cents a round for the 180 gr. Black Bullets are about 9 cents (shipped) for 180 gr. coated when you buy 2,500 without any discount codes.
  3. Doublehelix

    How stiff are you?

    Yep, "turtle neck". You definitely want to avoid that.
  4. Doublehelix

    How stiff are you?

    Definitely not locked at the elbows or the shoulders. Everyone has style differences, and most top shooters have slightly bent elbows, either bent out or in.
  5. Doublehelix

    Sport Pistol for .40 S&W Major PF

    Unfortunately, no. I have been busy with a lot of shooting this time of year, and unfortunately, I did not prep enough ammo. It seems like any spare time I have to get down to my reloading room, I am cranking out ammo for the upcoming week. Not a good situation to be in! (I hate it!) I am starting to get a backlog finally, but probably need to get another 6,000 - 7,000 rounds loaded before I feel comfortable. (I shoot about 15,000+ rounds a year of USPSA ammo, plus my steel ammo, my .45 ammo, etc.). It will probably be a few weeks before I can even think about going back to my Sport Pistol loads unfortunately. ☹️ I am anxious to try it don't get me wrong, but I keep outshooting my supply... Ugh.
  6. Doublehelix

    Possible lead poisoning

    Just to relate my experience: I had to specifically ask my doctor to include a lead test into my yearly blood work routine. As @Sarge mentioned, it is a specific test that must be requested. Thankfully, my levels are fine, so I am good to go, but this should be a great reminder to all of us that we need to be tested regularly, especially if you shoot indoors and reload.
  7. Doublehelix

    Arm/Elbow Straightness

    I prefer a more straight arm approach, but a slight elbow bend is FINE! Most of the top level shooters have some form of elbow bend, either down or out. Not much, but slight. I think you need to be comfortable, and I have always heard that you should never lock out your elbows or shoulders, although I prefer a pretty straight arm, I am not sure if I am actually *locking* my elbows. You are good as long as you can control the recoil.
  8. Doublehelix

    I Need Some Load Recipes for Sti Edge .40 USPSA Major

    I have been shooting 4.5 gr. of WST at 1.180" with Blue Bullets 180 gr., and it hits about 168-169 PF. Last test was at 75 degrees. My plan is to bump it up to 4.6 gr. to add a little buffer zone and to compensate for the higher temps that are coming. What is surprising is those of you loading at 4.8 gr. Here are the chrony summary numbers: Total number of shots 20 Bullet Type: Blue FN Bullet Weight: 180 Powder: WST Weight: 4.5 COAL: 1.18 Primer: CCI 500 Case: Mixed Stats - Average 941.15 Stats - Highest 953.00 Stats - Lowest 929.00 Stats - Ext. Spread 24.00 Stats - Std. Dev 6.35 Avg Power Factor 168.09
  9. Doublehelix

    Sight Picture/Alignment

    Just to make sure we all are on the same page: I call sight image 3 "combat hold", and I guess I have been referring to sight image 2 as "6 o'clock hold", but I think I am wrong there and sight image 1 is probably really called the "6 o'clock hold". I have been using SI 1 for so long now, but I am very interested to try SI 2. I think it could make a difference on those long 35 yard shots when even a .100" front FO blade covers the target.
  10. Doublehelix

    Sight Picture/Alignment

    I have a couple of questions regarding sight picture and alignment I would like to ask the collective knowledge around here. I am mostly referring to USPSA/SCSA/IDPA shooting with iron sights. I am currently shooting Limited Major if it makes a difference to the discussions. Obviously, Question #1 does not apply to optics shooters for the most part. 1) Which sight picture do you use and why? I have always used "combat sight alignment" (also called "sight image 3") where the dot of the fiber optic covers the intended POI. I have been talking to several USPSA shooters lately that use a "6 o'clock sight alignment" (also called "sight image 2") claiming that it is faster for them. All of my guns are setup for a combat sight alignment, and honestly I am not sure I want to change it now. I think you can be good at anything you are used to and have practiced, but since I keep hearing about the 6 o'clock hold, I thought I would at least see how popular it is and why folks use what they use. 2) At what distance do you sight in your pistol? I have always used 25 yards, but I am thinking that I need to shorten that distance. What distance seems most useful for the normal USPSA shooter? We have targets that vary from 7 yard wide open targets to 30 yard mini poppers. As an add-on to question #2, if you sight your pistol at a shooter distance (say 10 or 15 yards), do you change your POA for long target shots to compensate for bullet drop? 3) How much bacon do you eat before a match? 🤔🤣 Hehe... Thanks in advance for your responses.
  11. Doublehelix

    Glocked or Bulged Brass

    I wish, I just can't justify the extra $1,000 right now. I might go back and try the u-die by itself again and see what the case gauge failure rate is. If I lose a few every 1,000, that is worth the price to pay to not have to use the G-Rx setup. For match ammo, I will probably run them through the G-Rx however...
  12. Doublehelix

    thumb rest or not

    Honestly, I wanted the Phoenix Trinity rest as well, but when I tried to order one a few months ago, they were out of stock. I called and talked to them a couple of times, and they said that they lost a couple of their machines, and needed to dedicate the machines they had left to building guns rather than the thumb rests. They said they would contact me when they were ready to start making more. Never heard from them, and it has been months now... I ordered the Nitro Fin, and love it, but as you mention, it may not be the best fit for everyone. I really wanted to try the PT rest, but they seem to be made from Unobtainium right now.
  13. Doublehelix

    Glocked or Bulged Brass

    So as an update to my previous post, I have been using both the Redding G-Rx and the EGW U-die for my .40 brass, and have had basically zero issues with the finished cartridges. However, the u-die can be tough to use, the cases can really stick in the die, and it makes it difficult to use as I mentioned (upstroke, etc.). Lubing seems to work a bit, but still it is a pain. So I decided to replace the u-die with a standard sizing die, and that seems to work very well (I am still using the Redding G-Rx setup). The cases don't stick, and I also seem to get 100% cartridge passing the hundo case gauge. But... I hate running every case through the G-Rx. I processed about 1,500 cases yesterday through the G-Rx, and it took forever, was boring as heck, and my poor elbow is squawking at me this morning. It seems so unproductive. In the time I took to process 1,500 cases, I could have probably made at least 1,000 full cartridges on the XL650. There has got to be a better way!!! The U-Die by itself did not really seem to eliminate the problem, and I needed to use the G-Rx to get the results I needed, and in fact, just using the G-Rx alone seemed to solve the issue for me. Frustrated, and I have a sore elbow. Any suggestions???
  14. Doublehelix

    Cabelas S&B primer order cancelled

    I was just reading on another forum that Cabela's offered someone Win primers at the same price as the S&B's after canceling their order. I would call and complain more heavily and get the Win primers for $20/1000 rather than the CCI's at a discount.
  15. Doublehelix

    Marking Rounds

    I use the Hundo case checker as well, and have one for 9mm, .40 S&W and .45 ACP, and as @Beef15 says, I mark them in the Hundo. I use a straight edge and mark them all in two directions to form a "+" on the bottom of the case using a thick-tipped Sharpie. Only takes a few seconds per 100, and I can ID my rounds fairly easily, but not as easily as those folks who mark the case sides. It is just too much work to mark the sides. I use different colors for different uses (caliber and bullet weight, match bullets, etc.).