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About grottulf

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  1. How come some bolts have this ramp in the front part of the gas key dummy (not sure if that's the correct term for it, but dummy felt right...) My Foxtrot Mike bolt has a ramp like that, and when I pull the charging handle it pushes the bolt down slightly because of it. So if I pull the charging handle while there is no mag inserted, the bolt will drag slightly because of it. But when there's a mag with bullets inserted, it will push up on the bolt and counteract this. So it really isn't a big deal, it's just slightly annoying. I'm just curious why they would d
  2. That's not a bad idea I've fixed it now though. I made a new shim from 0.001 stainless steel stock. First I test torqued it with oil and I got it to around 100 ft lbs. I deemed that to be enough as long as I add permanent threadlocker. When I applied a threadlocker, I applied it not only to the threads, but to both sides of the shim as well, for lubrication. (I noticed that shims this thin breaks easily otherwise, at least if they're home made ) But then I couldn't rotate it enough to get it to align... I hadn't considered
  3. I've gotten my hands on a sheet of stainless .001" stock now, so I'll cut out a new shim. I'll just have to find the time for it...
  4. Sorry, I totally forgot about this thread. I had a lot of stovepipes issues with it at first. But after I adjusted the ejector with a home made shim, it has worked perfectly. There was some other minor issues as well. I've emailed the factory with feedback and they have been very responsive, so I'm pretty confident they will have fixed all potential issues before they start to sell them in the US. All in all, I really love the shotgun. I mostly shot 28g shots due to the minimum power factor in IPSC, but it works fine with 24g as well. Not sure w
  5. In IPSC you can choose to have open action at unloaded starts.
  6. Great! Thanks for sharing!
  7. I have barrel nut shims but those are larger. I got my hands on some .001" brass foil, and made my own shim yesterday. But when I tried mounting it again today I only reached 80 ft-lbs when it reached the correct timing... When I disassembled it again I saw that the shim had cracked. I think brass is too soft, so it probably compressed under the load. I'll try to find some stainless steel foil instead...
  8. We ended up threading it M14x1 instead, and redrilled and tapped the comp to match. 1/2" just felt crazy...
  9. I have some questions for you gunsmiths out there. I tried to loosen my comp the other day, and managed to get the barrel extension loose. It didn't take much force at all, so I guess it wasn't torqued to specs from the factory... So I've learned the hard way to always use a barrel vise when removing a comp Now I'm trying to get it back on the barrel with the correct timing and torque. Turning it until it lined up, obviously didn't take enough torque... So I turned it until I got a satisfactory torque reading, and measured how many degrees
  10. Update: I got lazy and bought one of these instead https://www.3gsports.de/3g-pcc-compensator-3px.html
  11. Thanks, that would be really great!
  12. 5/8 would be a little too big on my pencil barrel. I'm considering drilling and re-tapping the comp to M14x1 or something like that... And do the same to my barrel.
  13. Thanks for the advice, but I'm not sure I understood exactly how you did it. Do you happen to have a have pic of the pin and weld?
  14. Ok. Most 9mm comps I've seen has been 1/2-28. But nevermind the pitch, it's the choice of diameter I think is strange... The thickness if the barrel will be under 0.06" with a 1/2" comp! The comp itself will strengthen the barrel, but there will be a substantial stress riser between the barrel and the comp.
  15. How come 1/2x28 is the "standard" thread for 9mm comps? With so little material left, I feel like it'll snap right of, if I drop the gun... And if I'll pin and weld on a comp, how close to the bore do I dare to drill?
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