Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    The GREAT state of TEXAS

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

TheGoatMumbler's Achievements

Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. Of course not. But I don't know there's a loose one unless it locks up my shell plate or falls out in the completed ammo tray.
  2. I've just started experiencing Remington primers falling out of a few of my 9mm reloads. Maybe 1 out of 250-300. No biggie but it's annoying. It is not specific to any one brass manufacturer and the primers all mic the same diameter. I use range brass and here is my theory: One range I collect brass from holds USPSA matches and there are several guys shooting Open guns loading major PF. If you reload that brass a few times at major PF I suspect the pockets can open up thus causing loose pockets. No one shoots open guns at my other range and I've reloaded thousands of rounds with that brass with no problems. What say you?
  3. Has anyone any info on the difference btw shooting the round nose bullets in USPSA/IDPA vs the flat nose bullets? Blue Bullets now has both in 147gn. My CZ will run pretty much anything but I was wondering if there was an advantage of one over the other.
  4. The CZ75 trigger group is not as easy to clean as say a Sig P320 where the entire thing comes out in one piece. But with having to shoot whatever ammo you can find these days my CZ just gets nasty from the powder in box ammo. A friend of mine that has been shooting CZ's in competition for years gave me a tip from a guy that is a well known trigger builder in the benchrest community. He takes the grips off his Shadow, dry brushes and wipes off all the surface crap, then drenches the inside of the frame, trigger group, etc with lighter fluid and just lets all the nasty stuff run out the bottom. Wipes it down, let it dry a bit or blow it out with compressed air and repeat. When it runs clean you're done. Wipe it, let it air dry, lube as you normally would then reassemble. Since the lighter fluid is petroleum based it leaves a minuscule amount of lube in all the nooks & crannies. I've done this a few times and my CZ is as smooth as it ever was. I ran out of lighter fluid once and used Gun Scrubber and it wasn't nearly as smooth. This works for me but what do you think of this process? Can you sub the lighter fluid for odorless mineral spirits?
  5. After spending months trying to get my Walther PPQ Q5 Match SF to run properly (the factory can't fix it either) I was about to join the DA/SA CZ cult and pull the trigger on a new CZ SP01 Shadow Custom for $1300. But I ran across a sweet deal for a SP01 Shadow TARGET Custom 2 tone locally I couldn't resist. Looking at the website other than the adjustable rear sight and an upcharge of $387 I can't figure out the difference. Both seem to have all the same trigger work, custom fitting and spring changes. No mention of a different barrel. Any thoughts?
  6. I had a similar experience but not that bad of an outcome. When initially measuring my powder charge I didn't notice my scale had changed from GRAINS to GRAMS. It could have been worse. I double check the scale a couple times from no on.
  7. I have about 5k rounds through my Q5 SF. I first started using Fenix 147g reloads at about 140PF and had no problems. Once I started reloading the problems began. Failure to go into battery, double feeding, failure to extract, no slide lock, etc. with loads around 125-130. Walther says the absolute floor for reliable operation is 130PF on these Q5 SF's so I worked my loads up. All problems solved now except slide lock. Last week I ran 90 rounds through 6 mags loaded to 5 rounds to test a ton of slide locks. Works fine at the range. Go to a match and 3 out of 6 stages I get a failure to slide lock with the striker cocked. This isn't mag related either. My loads average 136pf now so do I just keep going up or buy a damn CZ? Help!!
  8. As we all know primers are in short supply. I've always used Fed Gold Medal Match Small Pistol Primers (Orange box) with zero problems. I'm loading 9mm 147gn Blue Bullets with 3.2gn of Alliant Sport Pistol. A buddy sold me some Federal Small Pistol primers (Blue box) without gouging me and said these will work fine. Does anyone know the difference? Also in the "take what you can get" primer derby what about using Federal Small Rifles primers or any other primers? i.e CCI. I know revolvers are a bit more finicky about primers and if I run out of 9mm I'll be shooting the .38 spl.
  9. Thanks. Since it functions perfectly I guess it's not needed.
  10. This was in a zip lock along with the factory firing pin from a 929 I bought from a guy. Does anyone know what it is and why is it not in the gun?
  11. I have a new XL750 with about 1500 rds through it that about 10% of the primers skip a cycle. If I load 25 rds 2-3 will advance on the shellplate without a primer and it's not me failing to push forward on the handle. I've tried adding some weight to the plastic primer rod thinking some primers were sticking in the tube with no better luck. I'm using Fed Gold Match Small Pistol primers. I'm tired of pulling bullets so any advice is appreciated.
  12. I wet tumble and then dry tumble with a bit of polish added in. I try some of these recommended remedies and see how it goes. Thanks for the help.
  13. I have about 1000 rds through my new 750 and it's great. But the brass has started sticking on the powder measure on the down stroke. The alignment for the primers is correct but the brass to the powder measure isn't exactly on center. The flare is fine and I even reduced it a bit to see if that made any difference but it didn't. Any thoughts?
  • Create New...