Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheGoatMumbler

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

Profile Information

  • Location
    The GREAT state of TEXAS

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Has anyone any info on the difference btw shooting the round nose bullets in USPSA/IDPA vs the flat nose bullets? Blue Bullets now has both in 147gn. My CZ will run pretty much anything but I was wondering if there was an advantage of one over the other.
  2. The CZ75 trigger group is not as easy to clean as say a Sig P320 where the entire thing comes out in one piece. But with having to shoot whatever ammo you can find these days my CZ just gets nasty from the powder in box ammo. A friend of mine that has been shooting CZ's in competition for years gave me a tip from a guy that is a well known trigger builder in the benchrest community. He takes the grips off his Shadow, dry brushes and wipes off all the surface crap, then drenches the inside of the frame, trigger group, etc with lighter fluid and just lets all the nasty stuff run out the bot
  3. After spending months trying to get my Walther PPQ Q5 Match SF to run properly (the factory can't fix it either) I was about to join the DA/SA CZ cult and pull the trigger on a new CZ SP01 Shadow Custom for $1300. But I ran across a sweet deal for a SP01 Shadow TARGET Custom 2 tone locally I couldn't resist. Looking at the website other than the adjustable rear sight and an upcharge of $387 I can't figure out the difference. Both seem to have all the same trigger work, custom fitting and spring changes. No mention of a different barrel. Any thoughts?
  4. I had a similar experience but not that bad of an outcome. When initially measuring my powder charge I didn't notice my scale had changed from GRAINS to GRAMS. It could have been worse. I double check the scale a couple times from no on.
  5. I have about 5k rounds through my Q5 SF. I first started using Fenix 147g reloads at about 140PF and had no problems. Once I started reloading the problems began. Failure to go into battery, double feeding, failure to extract, no slide lock, etc. with loads around 125-130. Walther says the absolute floor for reliable operation is 130PF on these Q5 SF's so I worked my loads up. All problems solved now except slide lock. Last week I ran 90 rounds through 6 mags loaded to 5 rounds to test a ton of slide locks. Works fine at the range. Go to a match and 3 out of 6 stages I get a failure to slide l
  6. As we all know primers are in short supply. I've always used Fed Gold Medal Match Small Pistol Primers (Orange box) with zero problems. I'm loading 9mm 147gn Blue Bullets with 3.2gn of Alliant Sport Pistol. A buddy sold me some Federal Small Pistol primers (Blue box) without gouging me and said these will work fine. Does anyone know the difference? Also in the "take what you can get" primer derby what about using Federal Small Rifles primers or any other primers? i.e CCI. I know revolvers are a bit more finicky about primers and if I run out of 9mm I'll be shooting the .38 spl.
  7. Thanks. Since it functions perfectly I guess it's not needed.
  8. This was in a zip lock along with the factory firing pin from a 929 I bought from a guy. Does anyone know what it is and why is it not in the gun?
  9. I have a new XL750 with about 1500 rds through it that about 10% of the primers skip a cycle. If I load 25 rds 2-3 will advance on the shellplate without a primer and it's not me failing to push forward on the handle. I've tried adding some weight to the plastic primer rod thinking some primers were sticking in the tube with no better luck. I'm using Fed Gold Match Small Pistol primers. I'm tired of pulling bullets so any advice is appreciated.
  10. I wet tumble and then dry tumble with a bit of polish added in. I try some of these recommended remedies and see how it goes. Thanks for the help.
  11. I have about 1000 rds through my new 750 and it's great. But the brass has started sticking on the powder measure on the down stroke. The alignment for the primers is correct but the brass to the powder measure isn't exactly on center. The flare is fine and I even reduced it a bit to see if that made any difference but it didn't. Any thoughts?
  12. Yeah. I've tried all that moving up the hammer ladder, penetrating oil on the FC side, etc. It bent my aluminum rod as well. That 147g coated RN is in there pretty good and with a revolver it's hard to get it firmly butted up against something to give it a massive wack. The gunsmith has a jig for this and he said he's seen this a few times so I shouldn't feel like a moron. But if a wooden dowel is used use a hardwood not the soft crap from Lowe's. Brass is best and non marring. He may have to burn the wood out from the muzzle end and then it'll be no prob. I also suggested I was going to use t
  13. When chronoing some loads in my 4" S&W 686 I had a squib. No big deal I thought so I grab a wooden 5/16" dowel and give it a few wacks. Since it was only about 1/4" from the forcing cone I figured it'd be easy. It moved about another 1/8" and stopped and that was about the time the dowel broke in the barrel and it ain't moving! I can't get the wood out and I can't move the squib. I tried pushing both through with an aluminum rod but I only succeeded in wedging the wood in tighter. I ordered a brass squib rod this morning for future use but I'm in trouble on this one. Any advice?
  • Create New...