GuildSF4

9mm or others, doesn't matter. Case tension holds the bullet, not the crimp. The case needs to be sized small enough to grip the bullet tightly. On a tapered case this means the sizing die adjustment is more critical, it must fully size the case.

From NROI ruling: Created: 9/19/08 Updated: 10/16/08 Effective: 10/23/08 Rule Number: 9.1.5/9.5.2 Applies to: General Ruling Authority: John Amidon Status: Released Question: Target array is a no-shoot over a scoring target. The top of the NS head directly covers the bottom half of the lower A zone, with the lateral non-scoring lines of the NS *directly* over the A/C zone scoring lines of the scoring target. How is this scored? Answer: In accordance with Rule 9.1.5, the scoring areas of scoring targets and no-shoots are impenetrable. Whenever two targets (scoring and/or no-shoots) are in direct contact where one target directly overlaps part of another target, the area of the "under" target which is directly covered by the scoring area of the "over" target and its perforations is deemed to be non-existent. Additionally, Rule 9.5.2 is clarified to apply only to the visible portions of targets. It specifically does not apply to any area of any target which is in direct contact with and overlapped by the scoring area of another target (scoring and/or no-shoots) or by hardcover. (Edited for format)

So you are about .020 short on the chamber, that sounds like you have 2 issues. .020 short should not hold you out of battery by 1/4".

Small primer is small primer (pistol or rifle same size).

Because you looked at it... BTDT (Ignore the no-shoots, focus on the shoot targets, even if it is surrounded by no-shoots. (i.e. when planning - I have this much of a target. The sub-conscious ignores negative qualifiers.))

Could very well be this, normal fix is breaking the edge at the top of the ramp where it goes into the chamber. (Do you have Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual? It is a very good reference.) Do the rounds sit (just under) flush with the hood? You said they chamber checked, if they really did, then you shouldnt have a headspace issue... If they drop in correctly - no (as DWFAN states).

Take the top end off, spray some Kroil on the bushung to slide joint, (from inside also), allow it to sit for an hour or more and try again.

When you are reloading the most important safety advice is attention to detail. Also see if you can get a buddy who reloads to show you the ropes and help you set up your new machine. As Hi-Power Jack says start low and work up.

You have a 1911? If so start with that. If you don't want to start with the 1911, and the grip angle on a 1911 fits you then consider an XD or XDm (same grip angle). See if you can shoot some of these at a local range or after a match to try them. (You want one that fits your hand.)

Have you tried Airsoft? There are examples of Airsoft plate racks on here, and you can get or make a Airsoft texas star. As for the trigger reset, practice dryfire by cycling double action, hold the trigger back, cycle the slide and reset the trigger slowly. (The double action trigger is really good thing for dryfire also.) (Link to Airsoft rack - http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=88325)

Glad to hear that you are doing well.

From USPSA Multi-gun rules (Disqualification Unsafe gun handling)- 5.3.19 Firing a shot at a metal target from a distance of less than 23 feet with a handgun, 147 feet with a rifle, 23 feet with a shotgun when using birdshot or buckshot ammunition, or 147 feet when using slug ammunition. The distance is measured from the face of the target to the nearest part of the competitor’s body in contact with the ground (see Rule [10.1.3]).

Also check out post #6 of this thread - http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=183894&hl=

That would depend on the firearm, Para-ordanance LDA - hammer follow OK, standard 1911, 2011, or standard Para Hi-cap not acceptable and unsafe.

More grip contact on the weak hand = more control (assuming same grip pressure) The pressure you are using on your weak hand that is on your strong hand doesn't have as much effect (picture as if it were 2 sliding surfaces), the pressure on the grip is proportional to the weak hand grip, however the sliding surface (your strong hand) doesn't transfer all on the grip pressure to the gun, some is used conpressing the strong hand. Grip pressure / hand strenght is critical, locked wrist maybe not so much. Read the posts referenced in Post #6 they will help this explaination.

You want as much weak hand contact on the grip as you can get. The angle of your weak hand really is dependent on your hands and forearms. Try several varying angles, contact pattern, and grip force til you find what you are looking for.

This^^^ is a really good description. To test for the #4 cause try walking the hammer off (grab the sides of the hammer with it cocked and the gun empty and move it sideways several times and forward, if it comes off the sear the geometry is wrong which normally requires a new sear and or hammer). Taking it to a good gunsmith is recommended.

The less agressive grip has more weak hand contact which is good. The fact that it doesn't naturally line up the sights means it is not neutral. The shifting sounds like a strenght issue. Also check out these posts - http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=168601&hl= http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174079&hl=

Cool, I have a couple of ideas also, will have to see how they compare. Mine will probably be a while though, working on a motorized trimmer right now, details will be posted when I get it finished (final parts are still about a month out).

If firing the gun is causing your grip to shift then it is not right for you.

"Most human problems can be solved by an appropriate charge of high explosives." Blaster (Reb Brown) from Uncommon Valor Also "Any problem on earth can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. The trick is not to be around when they go off." The Wendesday Play (TV show) - von Quirnheim - Michael Anthony

My open gun has holes that touch land and grooves, it will shoot 1" groups at 25 yards. Are you really going to be able to utilize better accuracy than that? If not then there is no difference. (I do not know if there would be any measureable difference if you managed to make sure you only touched the lands with the holes, I am saying does it matter?)

Looking good.

Sounds like you took it with honor and learned from it.

.380 to .40, the only common part is the small primer feed. A .40 cal conversion kit and a quick change kit are what I would recommend.