Bkreutz

Case gauges are all different, you need to find a case gauge that is tighter than your gun's chamber. One way to find out is when you get a round that won't chamber in your barrel, check your gauge, if it goes in, throw it away, it's useless. I have a hundo "supermatch" which is at SAAMI minimums. They stopped making this because people were complaining about the number of failures. (go figure huh?) What I use it for is when fails the Supermatch, I check it in the chamber, if it passes, it gets used. I'm to the point where I can tell if one is going to pass or fail. The ones that pass the Supermatch don't even get checked a second time. Speeds up my process immensely.

Contact your health insurance company, mine paid for electronic hearing protection for my wife and myself.

Very cheap and "Open" are mutually exclusive terms.

Practice with your existing gun will help more than buying a tricked out gun. It's up to you but I think you'll find that your splits will be about the same with the new gun.

If you put the nick in the middle of the spring, it would be easier to see. . . .? maybe that's not such a good idea.

Are you shooting major or minor PF? The T1 is designed for minor, the T2 for major. There is also a Trubor barrel with an uncut compensator so it can be custom milled by a gunsmith.

I think so, I've used Delta Point and C-more, the DP now lives on my wife's gun. I use a 6MOA CMore on mine.

Have you checked the voltage output of the outlet you are plugging into? I had a similar situation (not with a case feeder, but an electrical appliance. Plugged it into a different circuit and it ran at full speed. There were loose connections in the outlet box that increased resistance and dropped the amperage.

Call Safariland Customer Service, if they say it fits, make sure you get the name of the person who told you that so if it doesn't fit, you can send it back. I find it's always better to ask the manufacturer of a product if it will fit rather than rely on people I don't know on the internet.

Well you've done everything that I have to cure that problem, mine responded, yours did not so the next step is determining where that problem originates. This would be my diagnostic plan. 1: Take everything apart, I realize you've already done that but you need to eliminate what's not causing the problem. With the die completely disassembled, does the inner dropper part slide up easily and then drop completely out of the die with no sticking? (this is done with no balls or bullets in the die), if so, you've eliminated the inner die to the outer body as a cause. 2: Next put the balls in the holes and reassemble the die. Put a bullet in, when it stops against the balls, push the inner die up until it releases the bullet. If it falls out, you may have eliminated a cause, but maybe not, I'd do this a bunch of times. When you're satisfied that it's working 100%, put it all back together and see if it's fixed. One problem I has was the spring feed tube wasn't adjusted correctly and it put sideways torque on the inner die. I was also getting intermittent bullet drop because of bullets going into the die nose down, that'll jam it every time. I finally got the shim pack adjusted up top to eliminate that problem (almost, but 1 out of a thousand I can deal with). Hope this helps. Change one thing at a time, if you change more than that you will never find the cause. Good luck.

This is the key part for any soldier, sniper or rifleman. We give them the best, most realistic, and difficult training, but until they aim at another human being and have to take the shot. None of them will know for sure what he/she will do. The jump from a paper target to a living human being with families and plans for the future is so long that many people just can't do it. Back to the original question, if I had to pick someone who could complete a mission that would probably require the demise of an enemy, I'd choose the one who has already done it. I hate sending a backup team in to complete the mission and try to find what's left of the original operative.

I must have good Karma or something. When I got my STI a couple of years ago, it would jam sometime on every mag. I sold the STI mags that came with the gun because they were the old style with the inserts that I kept forgetting to put them into the mags when cleaning. I bought all MBX, but was still having the problem. Took it to my local gunsmith who is known for correcting stovepiping. He worked on it for a while and told me that If I wanted consistent ejection patterns I would have to use identical headstamped brass (screw that, I went to 9 major so I could stop being a brass chicken after each stage. My gun came with the original horizontal mount c-more so I changed the mount to a 90 degree one (the old mount was peppered with dents from the brass hitting it. I've run probably close to 90K rounds through that gun with ( no, nada, nic, zero) failure to eject problems. I did have one failure to feed issue last week. Looked like your picture. I'm thinking it somehow got past the crimp station. Other than that, I clean my gun every couple of matches, clean my mags every time I drop them into the dirt. (or every month if they don't need it) My lube is Mobil 1, 0W20 (same stuff that goes in both our cars) Wish I could give you a magic bullet that would cure your malfunctions, I really hate watching people screw with guns over and over for the same problem. Good luck in your quest, I mean that sincerely, not being a smart ass.

I use one of those throw away alcohol pads(what they use at a Dr office) and a microfiber cloth I have in my range bag. I bought a bottle of stuff called "Dot Drool", a supposed better idea for cleaning dots. I didn't notice any difference between alcohol pads and dot drool. It works well enough so I keep it in my range bag and use it during the match, otherwise I use the pads in the shop.( I suspect just about any fast evaporating solvent would work just as well) r

Breathe Top, Breathe. Soon it will all go away. ?

The lowest hanging fruit in practical shooting is the movement between shooting positions and the movement between targets. Those are what you need to work on, you can only shoot as fast as you can see. If you are waiting to see where you hit your target while shooting, you're wasting a second or two per target multiply that by the number of targets per match and you will find the difference between you and the winner.

No case gauge will check the OAL of the round because, well, it's a case gauge, not a completed round gauge. I just stack mine on top of a ammo box so the rounds drop all the way to the head. I still check OAL with a caliper every so often.

I'm using Firefox (whatever the latest version is, it updates automatically). I've experienced a change in the way the forum reacts to the "page back" function. This change started 2 or 3 days ago. For as long as I've been on this forum, when I log in I choose, "New posts" option. Then I scroll through them and read the ones that look interesting. When done, I page back and was returned to the spot (minus the post that I just read) on the list where I was. Now, instead of returning to the same place on the list, it returns to the spot for an instant, then goes to the top of the list and adds any new posts that were added while I was reading the post (if there are any). To get back to where I was I need to scroll back down through all the same posts. Not a bid deal, just different and kind of a PITA.

Flaring on a Dillon is accomplished with the powder funnel.

Depending on powder, I used to load my minor ammo to 135 so it would account for altitude and temperature variations. If you don't travel to places different from home, that becomes less of a consideration. You don't need to compensate for what it will do in other guns, chrono at a major match is checked using your gun. I don't shoot minor anymore so I load to 173 (or so)?

IF it was loaded and the hammer/striker is cocked (which it is not except after make ready, the flag on a PCC is removed at the make ready so it's pretty much the same) You're comparing an unloaded rifle to a loaded pistol.

At the other extreme is the Mr Bullet Feeder powder funnel, it puts a straight step into the top of the brass (as well as a flare) so that when the bullet drops from the feeder die it goes deeper (and straighter) into the case, the crimp die smooths everything out. I don't normally pick up my brass at a match so I don't know if the affects how many times they can be reloaded.

In that light, why can't pistol shooters draw their pistols and point them downrange as long as they don't rack the slides? (I know, safety). FMR, I think I'm just going to walk away when a PCC shooter comes to the line, these rulings are like croquet in "Alice in Wonderland" (or Calvinball).

When my shooting schedule allows. (translation, not much time for turning lately)

Here's what I use

I'm sure you will find it much better not to have to have "is it going to jam" in the back of your mind. Much easier to concentrate on shooting and moving.