Bkreutz

Cost should be the last factor in picking bullets for open guns. You've already invested a bunch of cash in the gun, why cheap out on the bullets. I've had some success with plated bullets (the ones that are described as double or thick plated), but if I use the standard plated bullets at 1400 fps, they are all over the place, including oblong holes indicating that they are tumbling. Rocky mountain has FMJ bullets that are as cheap as every one elses plated bullets. I use them pretty much all the time, I can't tell the difference between them and Montana Gold (except the price).

Pretty much. Didn't hurt to ask if they would cover them, and they did. House of Hearing did all the paperwork. Won't know if you don't ask.

I still prefer the railway Cmore over the micro dots, seem to be clearer for me. I asked a friend why he switched from a Cmore to a Vortex, his answer "They sponsor me!" Enough said. I don't think there is a big difference, both work well with the proper practice time invested.

It's more important that it be installed correctly than what brand it is. A stock trigger, properly fitted is infinitely better than the most expensive trigger just slapped into the grip.

Never got a prescription from my Dr. Not sure how they got it covered, but they did.

I gave them my medical insurance info, the submitted a bill to the company and they paid the bill. Nothing mysterious, they also do hearing aids so maybe they know how to fill out the forms correctly (or maybe they're one of the few that try) I didn't think it had a snowballs chance in hell, but I also figured the worst that could happen is that the would deny coverage. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Soundgear, they're so good I forget they're in. I got mine from House of Hearing [houseofhearing@mac.com], They are in Utah, ran into them at the 2016 Area 1 match. They billed my medical insurance company (who picked up 100% for both my wife and myself). I could never go back to muffs.

That's what I use mine for. The biggest "do"'s are 1. Use a metal formula solution concentrate, works much better than any homemade recipe (IMO) 2. Make sure you dry it as soon as it comes out of the tank and oil the surface, especially if it's blued. 3. I don't put assemblies into the tank for cleaning, too hard to get it dry and oiled (see item 2) 4. I don't put plastic items in it, even though there is a temp control on most of them, the sonic activity will heat up the solution very hot. 5. You still need to physically clean carbon and dirt from the parts, the ultrasound doesn't do it all. (I actually scrub the parts before putting them in, then the ultrasound washes it away) Good luck.

There's one thing that I haven't seen mentioned here (or maybe I'm blind, that's possible too ) I've had the ejector wire (the one that guides the finished round into the bin) work it's way up and that will prevent the case from getting completely inserted into station 1, I use a flat blade screwdriver to push the back end of this wire all the way down into the hole.

Offset? my Cmore is centered and it's so low that I had to file the edge of the glass ring to clear the top of the slide. The most common objection I've heard regarding the 90 degree mount is that it doesn't look good??? Who cares

Thanks Jason

Would you consider selling smaller quantity sets since you had to buy in bulk to get them? (They're less than $20 plus shipping but I only need a set of 3, I'd have an extra 97 balls and 47 set screws rolling around the shop. I'd give you $10.00 for 5 of each shipped. (I still have a couple of bags of hi tensile stainless spring pins from a M&P project of a few years ago, I keep sending them to friends on the S&W forum)

I find proper pre travel is critical, too much and I end up not getting to reset at times (and too little ends up with the hammer not catching the sear ?), I kind of ignored it for a long time but now I set it at around 0.010" and it's goldilocks for me (just right). It's all about your comfort zone. ?

I'm wondering if the 3 newbies being talked about are the same person? They all joined at appx the same time (5-6 hours ago at present) and have posted 10 times right after each other in the same topic area. I find that curious.

Thanks, I've been thinking about getting one of those, you just gave me a good reason to keep the old system. I can continue to carry a paper clip in my tool kit. ?

HAHAHAHA, I've had to dig a few out of there. Luckily I have a mini shop vac that's dedicated to my handloading setup.

I don't know of anyone shooting 9Major who is using that heavy of a bullet. Typical is either a 115 or a 124, I use a 124 with 7.2 gr of Autocomp at 1.165, gives me ~ 1380fps for a 171 PF, no signs of overpressure in my gun (STI Trubor). The 115 guys load theirs to almost 1500 fps (and there are a lot of them). If it was legal (USPSA has a minimum bullet weight for Major), I'm sure some would try an even lighter bullet to get more gas (which is the secret of getting a comp to work correctly)

It is possible to find plated bullets that don't "keyhole", but you have to do your research. I found that RMR "supermatch" and Rainier 38 super TCP work well most of the time. Ended up settling on Montana Gold 124 FMJ for consistency, to me the minimal saving wasn't worth the risk.

Haven't got a clue, never asked ? (Maybe I'll do that tomorrow)

I did the reverse this month (look up 3 posts), must be karma working. ?

I love WAC, it's all I use for 9 major.

I don't worry about it, every 2011 shooter I know of lets the slide drop on an empty chamber at the end of every stage when the RO instructs him to "unload and show clear", then "if clear, hammer down and holster", I've never seen anyone NOT let the slide slam forward. That's an awful lot of slides slamming on an empty chamber. You're overthinking it.

Same here on military movies, I only spent 10 in the Army, but I sometimes stare in disbelief at what I'm seeing. Now air brakes, I've been a mechanic since my time in the Army and that mistake about how air brakes don't work drive me nuts.

Ask first, a lot of matches here are "lost brass" matches. Typically all level II or III matches (USPSA) are lost brass because that's the compensation for the match staff. I know of a couple of clubs that have a posted "Lost Brass" policy that states if you pick brass without permission, you will be disqualified and escorted from the range. Best to ask first.

Could you take a pic of the ball bearing, I'm having trouble visualizing where they would put it. I think I had a problem with mine because they weren't tight enough, I blame the cheezee allen wrenches they send with the holster. I replaced them with Snap On allen sockets from my old work toolbox (i'm a retired mechanic) and a 4" extension and a 1/4" ratchet, I can get some torque on them now, haven't had a problem since the last tighten (knock on wood ?)