NateTSU

I just use a jumbo purple Sharpe to put a stripe around my 6.5cm brass, it comes off when I clean it but it's no big deal to reapply. I don't mark my pistol brass(9mm) or my .223 brass. I just count those as a loss at a match.

I highly doubt your old press will hold you back, use good dies and proper procedure and you will be fine.

^^^^ Agreed, Palmetto State armory is a good place to start. I bought one of their 10.5" uppers and dropped a mag block for colt mags in an existing lower. It has ran great, I haven't had any issues with it.

If your not going to carry it I would get the full size. The larger grip will help you control the recoil and the longer barrel will make it easier to meet the pf floor. For reference my full size 320 is my production rig and my compact is my carry gun.

I usually shoot 3-500 rounds per pracite depending on what I'm doing. Plate racks seem to eat the most ammo for me. I only get 1-2 live fire practice sessions per month so I try and plan my rounds per drill so I don't wing up hosing targets and not accomplishing anything.

I have Refinement & Repitition, it's a really good guide. I also added added his drill "call it and leave it" to my live fire drills, it's a really good drill to get better in match mode.

I like an 18" HBar barrel with rifle length gas, makes the gun run really smooth but not too muzzle heavy. I have a standard BCG and Magpul stock. I am in North Texas and our matches are usually a blend of bay and open terrain stages that stretch out to 500+. I think that the 18" barrel gives the best balance of transitions and long range performance in these kinds of matches. For the kind of multigun I shoot I see no advantages to an ultralight skelotonzed rifle. I do have a 16" upper setup for limited division and I use it in matches that are straight up hoser matches. My TacOps upper is used for 90% of the matches I shoot though.

I went with a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5cm. I wanted to get into a chassis rifle and the RPR was the most economical solution for me. I have a friend who went with a Tikka T3 in 6.5cm and it's a very nice rifle. I went with a vortex scope and my friend went with a Leupold. Both rifles shoot great and both work well for PRS. My experience with savage has been positive both rifles I owned shot very well, the only problem I have with savage is there isn't many aftermarket options unless you are replacing barrels.

I had issues with the 200swc feeding reliably, switched to the 230rn and haven't had any more issues. Clays and 231 have both worked well for me.

I prefer the 124gr bullet. My current load is a 124 RN SNS coated bullet with 3.7gr of TG. I like the snappy recoil impulse lower charges make the gun feel sluggish. I will be switching to a plated bullet though because I am having a problem with leading. I think that high of a charge TG is burning the coating off.

I have the PELT from Gray Guns in my 320. It's a huge improvement over the factory trigger, it is lighter and much smoother than the stock trigger.

Well I tried to get it out with a .45 brush, no luck. So I put it in the freezer over night tried again with the brush and still would not budge, so I put two patches on my 9mm jag and jammed it into the chamber and it came out no problem. Thanks for the help everybody.

Got it, I will try the 40 cal brush first with Kroil and if that dosnt work I will put it in the freezer overnight.

Yesterday I had a case head separation in my 9mm PCC, the extractor pulled out the lower half but the upper half is still stuck in the chamber. I need help/advice on how to remove the stuck portion of the case. I did recover the lower half and the brass looks like has a shoulder/step in the brass. I am going to look through my empties to see if I can find a matching head stamp to confirm. It wasn't a hot load 3.4 TG and a 124 SNS RN out of a 10.5" 9mm upper. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Nathan

Edit I messed with my FS 320 today and it worked fine, just dry fire no live fire yet, I'm not sure what was causing the trigger not to reset .

I get 1.25-1.5 moa from my 3 gun load. It's mixed range brass that I pick up at my local range that hosts matches and classes. Bullet/powder combo is 55gr fmj and 24.5 H335.

Tag for future reference

I have a Trijicon MRO, It's light weight tough as nails and uses the same batteries as my other scopes.

For your price range check out the Ruger Precision Rifle. I picked up a used one for well under your budget and put the rest into the optic. I wanted to get into a chassis rifle and the RPR was the most logical way to do it. So far I am very happy with it and plan to start PRS matches when the weather cools down.

I upgraded from a LNL-AP to a 650 with a case feeder and it's a huge improvement. However I am wondering if I should have gone with the 1050. I shoot primarily 9mm and 223, I also load for family and friends. Being able to process 223 brass, swage and trim on the 1050 is a big plus to me. I also load 2-3k 45acp rounds a year but I am considering picking up a used SDB to handle that minor chore.

Tag

This is a good list for USPSA. I would also add www.northtexasmtigun.com to it for 3gun and steel matches.

Same problem of a tight schedule. I have a wife, two kids (1and2) and a 50-60hr work week. There is time in the day you just have to look for it and schdule things like reloading and dry fire practice. As others have stated it usually means late nights at the 650 and early mornings on the range. I don't shoot as many matches anymore and have had to be a lot more selective about what I practice during live fire because it only happens around once month now. I have also had to reset my goals, I am not going to nationals with what I'm doing now but I can be competitive at a local match with my friends and I'm okay with that.

Finally got to the range with my pcc. I had zero issues with the ProMag mag block using IWI magazines. I put 300 rounds through it with no problems.

Just got back from the range, shot 300 rounds of my production load 3.7gr TG 125gr sns rn through my pcc. It ran flawlessly no issues. Pretty flat and accurate with plenty of power to knockover poppers and hard set steel.