MJinPA

Thanks! Sounds like it’s pretty straight forward. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will it work for a poor man’s back up gun? If so, what do I need to change on the frame...just the ejector? I know I can get a used 22 on the cheap but wondering if it can be done with what I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s all I got. I’m not a machinist or trained gunsmith so definitely interested to see what one thinks about the cracks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both cracked back to back?!? Any chance something changed with your load? I would think you’d know if it was a double charge but if they cracked back to back that’s definitely my initial thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless you really know what you’re doing, building out a 9mm AR with a standard lower will likely cause a lot of frustration trying to get it to run reliably. Either buy a complete rifle from JP, MBX, Sig, or even the Ruger PC9 or build it with a 9 mm lower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This tip was super helpful! I have 500 (+a handful) of SC and only about 25 Super. I’m going to post the SC in the classifieds if anyone that helped out here is interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. Sounds like I’ll have to sort [emoji22]This must be why 38 super shooters walk around looking like they lost a contact lens after shooting a stage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe there’s a slight difference. So glad I don’t shoot this stuff. I’ll probably just selling as a mixed lot at a discount. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not seeing a difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a bunch I’ve collected over the years that I plan on selling at some point. My question is...does it need to be sorted for the buyer or is it interchangeable? I can’t see any difference in the case besides headstamp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

General fitness/weight training is important but you can also work in some movements that focus on the muscles you use when shooting. To do this, I will occasionally use a 10lb dumbbell that I grasp as close to a pistol grip as I can get and work wide transition and keeping the “gun” up when entering positions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm thinking about getting mine milled for CO but it sounds like a one-way street (not able to legally go back to USPSA production). I called CZC yesterday to get their input hoping I could use this https://czcustom.com/rds-plate-fixed-shadow2-sight.html but the sales person I spoke was not 100% sure if they could mill it light enough without making through cuts to the slide. Has anyone come up with a solution that makes CO weight and uses the CZC rear iron sight plate to go back to production?

Thanks for the replies. I also got clarification from Troy on this. However, the person that setup this particular classifier saw PP in the stage procedure (not briefing) and assumed pepper popper which was thought to be a full size popper. I also just realized that when viewed in the app is states PP 1-4 but when viewed online it uses a single P. Granted we should all be more diligent when setting up classifiers it should be an easy fix to make the version viewed in the app mirror the version that's online.

At a recent club match we had a classifier that was set up wrong (18-05). Full size poppers were used instead of mini. Was not noticed until a few squads shot so had to be tossed. The stage procedure refers to them as PP and in the scoring section they are called mini poppers. I have also seen mini poppers called USP and MP in stage descriptions. Is there a standard? I could not find one in the rule book. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a fitted single sided as a spare but they just look odd on a 2011 frame. My current hack job functions fine but it's a hack job with smoothed edges. And, we all know that looks matter in the gun games!