ClangClang

100% my own opinion. I don't recall ever seeing any official statement from CZ one way or the other. I doubt CZ would use the word "consumable" but I think we can all admit that high round count competition shooting is slightly outside the use cases for 98% of gun owners and we put more stress on our guns than almost anyone, including most (but not all) LE and .mil users. I'm not sure the slide stop issue is a design flaw, nor a feature. It's just a factor. All guns have consumable parts. Different guns have different maintenance schedules. It's just one of the many different tradeoffs eac

ETS mags are the least reliable mags on the planet. Nothing but issues. Use OEM glock mags with either Henning or Dawson basepads. I think Dawson might actually be my favorites. They have the easiest and most secure fitment of any of the aftermarket basepads and are still completely tool-less. Kind of genius, really. Dawsons are the only basepad I haven't had blow off the end of a mag after dropping it. The way it wraps around the entire bottom lip of the magazine is very slick, unlike all of the other brands I mentioned which just use a small pin at the rear. TTI and Springer have both

It's a consumable so it doesn't peen the barrel. They impact on each other during recoil. I'd much rather have the SS break than the barrel linkage.

Good info, thank you.

Slide stops are consumable. They break. Always keep replacements handy. Same thing with the trigger return spring. On CZ's, these are the 2 components that should really be replaced every 5000-7000 rounds for preventive maintenance. Otherwise they will break and it's guaranteed to happen during a match, never at practice.

Lifts are only necessary if you're really out there wheeling hard, in which case you'll need a lift AND sliders, skids, and other up-armoring. The 4Runner has plenty of clearance to handle any fire road in the USA. I drive a 2017 Lexus GX460 which is extremely similar to the 4Runner (it's a rebranded euro-spec Toyota Landcruiser 150, to be exact) and it has gotten me to some incredible places in stock form aside from some better tires.

Glock is by far the easiest to physically take down and reassemble. What's a little harder for me to visualize in my head is the relationship of all the angles on the cruciform, sear, etc. But no doubt that's also because I don't shoot Glocks competitively (just a G43 for CCW) so haven't spent any real time playing with the innards and tuning it. CZs (especially decocker models) are probably the hardest to detail strip and reassemble that I'm aware of, but I'm also the most confident polishing and tuning them (thanks in no small part to @kneelingatlas's excellent guides). Then agai

I was a new Carry Optics shooter playing in the provisional division when it was first created. Up until this point, I had only shot with my red dot at our local indoor range. I was sent down to ABQ for a work trip that ended on a Friday and just happened to search Practiscore and found a local USPSA match on Saturday so I stayed for an extra day, brought my race rig, and went to the match. I was really excited to be outdoors on a gorgeous day in the desert the middle of winter. It was one of the first opportunities I had to shoot the red dot outside and I was learning about how my red dot

Only real material difference to the gun are some unique serrations/machining to the slide and the inclusion of the Romeo3Max optic. And it comes with 4 standard 21-round mags instead of the 3 17-round mags with Henning baseplates. Otherwise it's pretty much the same as the regular P320 Legion.

This is even more hilarious than the plain G26 in CO. Please post match videos, I can't wait to see guys with tuned MPXs and short-stroked JP GMRs getting trounced by a meme gun. This thread is possibly my favorite thread of all time on Enos. Major kudos for your drive and dedication and absolutely off the wall methods. You can't argue with performance though...

It depends where its hanging up. First things first, try swapping around the various springs and followers into different mag bodies which you know are good. This way you can use process of elimination to figure out what the problematic part is. Once you know the part that needs attention, you can focus on the troubleshooting and the potential fix. Also it would be helpful if you gave more info about what exactly is happening on your failure to feed. Is the bullet getting stuck on the feed ramp? Is the follower jamming inside the mag tube and failing to lift the top bullet high enough for t

There are arguments to go both ways. A dovetail mount is definitely the least "preferable" of all the mounting options, but as you've learned, there are plenty of people who get a long and fruitful life out of the dovetail mount. Between getting a plate system and direct milling, there are pluses and minuses to both. In 2015 when CO was first announced as a provisional division, the only viable answer was direct milling. The plate systems were junk. In the past 5 years though, a ton of R&D has been performed and the plate systems available now are quite good with support bosses

I'm just thinking of how many Pelican cases would be required to travel to a match where I was going to shoot USPSA, 3 Gun, PRS, and Sporting Clays - all in a single weekend. I'm not sure I could even fit all that in the trunk of my Civic, much less as flight baggage.

Grams kits are not specifically required in conjunction with Henning/TTI/Spring basepads. However, the big advantage y9ou get with the Grams kits is his thinner follower that allows you to get an extra round in the mag. His spring is required to go with his follower. Only you can decide whether spending $20ish (per mag) is worth the extra round.

It does not sound like you torqued the comp appropriately before drilling and pinning. If it's currently wobbling, it was loose before you drilled it. FYI you'll likely need to drill a new hole, because it will be rotated further once you properly tighten it. You can possibly avoid drilling a second hole if you play around with stacking shims so that when you've torqued between 20-35 ft lbs the holes line up. Also, if you don't have shims, get some. I really don't like crush washers. They're cheap, but that's their only redeeming quality.