ClangClang

Nickel mags dont fit the gauge with TTI or Taylor freelance pads. Henning pads are the only ones I havent tried but I'm not optimistic either. I was hoping to use the nickel tubes as my dedicated match mags to keep them separate but alas, it was not meant to be. I haven't tried filing the feed lips yet but we'll get around to it eventually.

I also seem to be the exception. I have three DPP's, each with thousands of rounds on them (3k-10k) and have had no issues of any sort. I have a feeling the majority of DPP owners are just carrying along fine with no problems to report and so there's no reason to discuss them online.

11.5 if you're urban, 12.5 if you're rural. Do not go under 11.5, for so many reasons. Less reliable, advanced gas port erosion, poor ballistics, etc. Make sure to start a form 4 on a suppressor too. The concussion out of the shorty guns is severe. Your ears will bleed if you ever engage without ear pro. Even with a suppressor, 5.56 is not hearing safe. For a duty SBR, you simply can't do better than a Knights SR15 CQB 11.5 Mod 2. Unparalleled, but pricey though. A very good budget option are the Match Grade pre-built uppers from DSG arms. they also offer duty grade oh, but don't be swayed by then, they are lower quality parts. I won a major Run N Gun match using one of their match-grade 16in uppers. Runs beautifully, sub MOA. The match was so muddy I literally got into the shower with my rifle after but it never skipped a beat.

I started with a Guga Ribas holster and it was pretty good, but would very rarely bind (maybe 1 draw out of 100). Also tried a DAA Race Master but liked the Guga more. I have long arms, so a race holster would save me a bit of motion on the draw and net about 0.15 seconds saved to a first shot, but I eventually went back to standard double layer kydex for a more secure "feeling." Eventually sold my TSO cause I got tired of buying factory .40 and now I'm mostly competing in CO, AKA poverty open.

If you are a "new" shooter, at a local match, you might contact the match director and ask what to do about your magazines. I suspect if you load them to 21 only, he would give you a pass on them for your very first match while you are waiting on proper mags to arrive. Does it conform to USPSA rules? No. Do you gain any competitive advantage from it whatsoever? Also no. Or just switch to Open. No big deal. Ditch the suppressors for USPSA practice. That was considerate, but ultimately unhelpful to achieve your desired goals. Get a timer. (Note: I happen to have one for sale in the Classifieds.) Take a class from your friendly local GM @waktasz - see dates at super-tactical.com Taking a class will correct your bad habits before you ingrain them through additional practice and teach you how to improve on your own. You are a perfect candidate for their classes.

Incredible video, so glad it got captured on film. Otherwise I would never believe it That being said, it only represents a failing of the mounting plate, not an inherent flaw with the Leupold. I think everyone can agree that the optimal way to install a slide-mounted red dot is in a custom-milled-for-size pocket directly into the slide. Other installation options are more versatile (MOS, AOS, or any other adapter plate system), or less expensive (dovetail mount) but a custom milled pocket is by far the most secure and offers the smallest height over bore offset.

This is kind of a thing with all CZ frames due to the flared geometry at the base of the grip and the inclusion of the main spring plug.. That's why most (all?) of the CZ magwells have an unusual attachment method compared to so many others like Glock, M&P, Sig, etc. If you go on CZ Customs website and peruse the magwells, you'll see that they ride up on the grip by a good 1/2" and therefore require smaller grip panels to accommodate. I've been incessantly searching for a magwell solution for my SP-01 Phantom (polymer framed version of the SP-01 Tactical) and haven't found anyone making them. There are plenty of options on the market for all other CZ models. After you finish with the S2 magwell project, please shift your attention the Phantom. I'll make it worth your while

I only see it as an advantage. When I go more than a couple weeks without live fire I definitely become a bit more recoil/concussion sensitive and often have trouble tracking my sights under recoil for the first stage of a match, sometimes two stages. Knocking out 50 rounds right before the match typically solves that problem. There's still the problem of being an unremarkable B class shooter, but solving that requires an entirely different discussion

If you've read about Run N Gun matches and have always wanted to try one out, here's your chance! Note - you don't have to run. Plenty of people hike the entire course. Some people treat it as a major match and are laser focused on winning, others pack their full bug out bags and spend a great day out in the woods testing their readiness, fitness, and having a great time with friends. I've even seen a guy bring a camping stove and sit down mid-match to make himself a fresh cup of coffee The Run-N-Gun, presented by Rockcastle Shooting Center, is a center fire 2 gun biathlon – competitors will complete a 10k run combined with a 2-gun shooting competition. This year we are also offering a rimfire event on Sunday. The event is a test of man and equipment alike. It is intended to give participants an idea of how being hot, cold, exhausted, and challenged by the environment affects their shooting, and to test the effectiveness of their gear under field conditions. This event is not intended for inexperienced shooters – all participants are expected to be familiar with the operation of their firearms, and to observe basic principles of firearm safety at all times. With the exception of emergencies, Range Officers (ROs) are not allowed to help participants in any way. Good attitudes are a must. If you are the type of person who gets upset when minor changes are made to a plan or when you don’t always get your way, this is not the event for you. Full details available on Facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/events/413743836034899/?active_tab=about Saturday 10k - https://practiscore.com/the-run-for-your-life-zombie-10k-2019/register Sunday 5k Rimfire event - https://practiscore.com/the-run-for-your-life-zombie-rimfire-5k-2019/register Photos courtesy Lisa Stennett

Brilliant, thanks mate!

Interesting. Can you post a photo of these modified pliers? I'm having trouble envisioning which axis you carved the notch into. Thanks!

Well, I'm pleased to say I finally got it back together. I didn't want to tear it down yet again so I persisted without the slave pin. But I moved the trigger pin to the left side of the frame which gave me more space to work on the right which is where the shorter leg of the TRS needs to drop down into the frame behind the trigger bar. Once I moved the pin, it only took 3-4 tries to get it set. I clamped the frame in a bench vice, laid the long leg of the TRS in the forward channel, then used a dental pick to pull the short leg of the TRS aft into its proper slot. Once in place, it only took gentle finger pressure to hold it there while I tapped the trigger pin in the rest of the way. Also, in case anyone happens to come across this post looking for instructions on disassembling/reassembling the CZ SP-01 Phantom, one other pro tip: Reinserting the decocker was a bit of a puzzle. Turns out you need to insert it as far is it will go, then back it out 1-2mm, then use a punch to depress the decocker arm (inside the sear cage) to allow the Decocker Lever's shaft to slip past it and fully insert. Also, on reassembly, I must have put it together incorrectly 4 or 5 times with the hammer OVER the sear which makes the action completely lock up. The hammer hooks need to be UNDER the sear. The only way I could find to unlock the action was to drive out the sear cage pin, drop all the parts, and start over completely. When you're reassembling, you have to ensure the hammer is rotated all the way forward on the strut (i.e. decocked position) when you slide the assembled sear cage into the Phantom's "housing insert frame" (no idea what to call it, it's unique to the Phantom).

The CGW springs help, but what you really need to do is polish the sear cage, trigger bar, and the rest of the internals. If you look at the stickied CZ Tuning thread, you'll see that appropriate polishing will take the trigger pull down into the desirable 7DA/3SA range and also remove all the grit, which won't necessarily happen with just spring replacement. I just tore down my first CZ this weekend (the Phantom) and went to town with 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper. It took longer than expected, but it really wasn't bad. And the Phantom is the most complex model they make, with the fewest online resources. The SP-01 will be significantly easier and there are comprehensive guides online. I had to figure out the Phantom reassembly on my own. It was.... frustrating. My trigger went from virtually unusable crap (12DA/8SA with ungodly amounts of grit and take up) to a single action break that rivals my CZ Custom Shadow Target. I still need to work on reducing the takeup and bringing down the DA pull just a little bit. Point is, if you're doing this on the cheap, you really don't need to go crazy with the parts. However, getting the SPG-K1 ($17) is highly recommended and has the best ROI of any parts you'll install to help the DA pull. Getting the CGW hammer will be the biggest help to the SA pull. The Short Reset Kit is nice and will help you bring down your split times, but matches aren't won with fast splits unless you're at the upper M/GM echelons and looking for that extra half a percent of edge, so don't feel bad about not installing it. Either way, just call up CGW and talk to David or one of their guys about options and recommendations. They're super helpful. I have TTI and Taylor Freelance basepads. Both work, both make 141mm with tubes that are in spec. TTI are slightly nicer fit and finish, TF require an allen key to be removed, but they're cheaper and (probably) a little more secure. Not sure if that security is worth anything though as I've never had a TTI pop off. If you shoot somewhere with very fine grit and need to clean your mags after every stage, go TTI. You'll likely want to head over to Grams Engineering at some point and buy his replacement spring/follower kits. You'll get an extra 2 rounds per mag. My local match often has 22 round stages. The GE kits save me from having to do a reload. No idea about dovetail mounts. I've had all my slides (4 or 5 now) milled by @PrimaryBruce at Primary Machine. Excellent work, fast turnaround. Can't recommend him enough. I think he has a 10% off code for forum members as well.

I just disassembled my Phantom to do a polish job and install a bunch of CGW parts (Short Reset System, Comp Hammer Decocker, lighter springs) and having a problem. I'm 99% finished reassembling this thing but completely stumped by the TRS. I'm at my wits end trying to get this daggum trigger return spring installed. I'm afraid I'm gonna break the damn thing. I found some youtube vids showing the slave pin method on a CZ SP-01 Tactical, but I don't think I can do that with the Phantom which has "captive" trigger pin bosses. I've got the pin partially inserted, then been trying to push the pin down into place with a pair of needlenose pliers and awkwardly trying to hook the spring on the pin before the spring slips. It's not going well. Any guidance or tips?

Left about a 6" gap in the belt with an 8" ratchet strap. If you don't leave a gap, the velcro on the outer belt will bind with your inner belt and will not tighten down smoothly.