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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About ClangClang

  • Rank
    Sees Sights Lift

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kensington, MD
  • Interests
    Rock climbing, Ice climbing, Mountain Biking, Practical Shooting
  • Real Name
    Jon Hutt

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  1. I'll politely disagree. Mostly, I dont think any CO questions belong in the Open forum. I generally think that any CO-specific questions can just go in the appropriate "Factory Pistols" subforum. After all, by definition, a carry optics pistol must be a factory offering, just like Production. The simple addition of a red dot doesn't really change anything about the pistol itself. The Open forum is really about the pistols themselves, not the intrinsic qualities of the Division. And IMO that's warranted due to the finicky nature, endless tuning, etc of Open guns. For carry optics, 99% of the time, just stick an optic on a slide and go shoot. Technical questions about the optics themselves go in Gear and Accessories. And stage strategy/planning/techniques can go in any of the relevant stage forums.
  2. Is anyone who sells Grams spring kits offering free shipping today?
  3. I'm looking to pick up some Grams spring/follower kits. I've never seen them go on sale, but if any of the "USPSA-specific" stores (Stoeger, Max, Shooter's Connection, etc) are doing a free shipping thing for BF, that's probably the best it's gonna get. Anyone see anything announced yet?
  4. ClangClang

    75 Shadow Custom

    @Rnlinebacker FYI the "Shadow Line" does not describe any generic Shadow. It was a specific pistol called the "Shadow Line" and only applies to that specific pistol, not every pistol in the Shadow "lineup." @Stafford I actually suspect it would not be legal by the strictest letter of the ruleset. Most of the Custom Shop creations (as opposed to a stock gun which has been tuned) don't meet the minimum 2000 unit distribution and therefore are not eligible to be on the approved list. However, I haven't shot Prod in ages and I'm certainly not the final arbiter on rules. Hopefully someone who is more current on Prod will chime in. That being said, I would bet $50 that if you brought that gun to Chrono at any major match in the country, no one would notice or bump you to open. There's no way to prove that gun wasn't purchased as a CZ75 frame and then you simply swapped in a Shadow slide, which would be a Prod-legal configuration.
  5. If you're remotely serious about this sport, you will want to have a backup optic on the shelf no matter which optic you use. All slide optics will eventually experience issues or fail completely.
  6. Follow up pics. Side by side comparison. I have the R1P on some folded paper so that the glass is on the same altitude as the DPP for an (attempted) apples-to-apples visual. R1P shroud sitting in the Legion slide. You can see there is a ~0.5mm gap behind the shroud within the optic cut (and a similar gap in front). What's also strange are the rear holes in the shroud. What are they there for? It would have been quite slick for Sig to allow the shroud to be secured from under the slide as well for a total of 4 screws through it instead of just the 2 main optic screws. The rear holes in the slide are where the screws go from under the slide to secure the rear iron sight. How would you bed this or fill that rear gap?
  7. I've got a shiny Legion I've been shooting with irons but I'm ready to slap a dot on it and start dryfiring to get ready for CO next season and the occasional 2gun/3gun match. What's everyone's take on the Delta Point Pro vs the Romeo 1 Pro? For a CO-only gun I wouldn't bother with BUIS, but I'm inclined to have them on this gun especially due the anticipated carbine matches. The matches I enter tend to be very physical, lots of movement, obstacles, running, etc... I perceive above-average odds of this optic sustaining an impact while holstered. My general comparison observations: The overall glass area between the 2 optics is almost identical, but DPP offers more visibility vertically (slightly taller glass). R1P offers more visibility laterally (slightly wider glass). R1P is physically shorter and with the built-in rear notch offers a very nice cowitness right out of the box with the factory green fiber optic, and it's completely unobtrusive and takes up virtually no "real estate" in the glass. General durability/longevity is inconclusive. Lots of people have 15K+ on their DPPs with no issues at all (I have had 5 on various guns with no issues at all), but plenty of people have had multiple DPPs fail after just a couple hundred rounds. Similarly, Sig has really been struggling with their optic lineups. Lots of problems, flickering dots, dead optics, etc. R1P is too new for any real durability tests or long term reviews. R1P feels more fragile, especially in "default" configuration without the steel shroud. DPP feels quite sturdy but has a factory-installed (but removable) shroud. To get a cowitnessing front sight for the DPP requires the Dawson 0.4" sight which is ridiculously tall and could conceivably interfere with holster compatibility, probably create a snag point, and definitely take up "real estate" in the glass, etc. So to the peanut gallery, I ask - which optic do I roll with? And secondarily, for those who have decided on the R1P, do you use the metal shroud? It should be a no-brainer, except for the fact that the base of the shroud lifts the optic taller than the cutout milled into the slide. This leaves the R1P secured exclusively by 2 screws with no bosses or other external physical support for the optic body. The shroud is also unsupported as it is shorter than the pocket in the optic. I have serious concerns about the screws eventually breaking if they are asked to sustain tens of thousands of recoils and hundreds (maybe thousands) of slide rackings because we all know that, right or wrong, CO slides get racked by the optic. Is the answer to use the shroud anyway for general protection and just proactively replace the screws every ~5k rounds to be safe? Or perhaps some sort of bedding compound to better support the shroud in the optic pocket?
  8. The doodad is part of the Israeli National Police issued retention holster. That doodad is used to lock the pistol in. If you aren't using their surplus holster (hard to find in the US and IMO not that great of a holster anyway), it can be removed and discarded. I don't know about the Tanfo grips, sorry.
  9. Is that an X5 slide? What work did you need to do to the holster to get it to fit? Can you post a pic from the side? All the current Safari RDS holsters are molded for the M17/P320 slide which is 4.7" but the extra 0.3" on the X5/Legion (5.0" total) doesn't let it lock into the holster at all.
  10. I'm gonna hop right on that. I'm gonna need every advantage I can think of, so Limited 10, here I come!
  11. No, that aluminum plate just bolts on to the end of the receiver extension tube. It does not add any LOP at all.
  12. If I had his SVI, I could have done the exact same thing.... HAHAHAHA lol not a chance in hell. Unreal talent, dedication, and consistency.
  13. ClangClang

    P 10 F Finding

    I also have big hands and 20 years of rock climbing. I can force a SP-01 Phantom to do the same thing (warp so that mags don't drop free) but never tried it on a P10. On reloads, I consciously break my grip just a little to keep my hands loose so everything moves faster. This also prevents mags from binding. Like you said, if you're planning on a DWX anyway, might as well pick up a P10 to start stocking up on mags and you can work on your grip technique as well. You don't want to have a crushing grip when you're performing a reload.
  14. This is the nicest one I know of https://www.battlearmsdevelopment.com/shop/product/bad-lbs-mil-lightweight-butt-stock-for-mil-spec-buffer-tube-3335
  15. The bigger benefit of the Alpha-A pouches over the Race Master pouches is not the inserts. The draw from the new Alpha-X is a *little* nicer, but the Race Masters were fine. The big upgrade is the new locking ball joint. The Race Masters used 2 set screws that grubbed into the ball joint. Over time, they would dimple the ball and lose tension. The new ball joint on the Alpha X has a locking collar which is MUCH more secure. Based on the photos of the knockoffs, I'm not even sure they have copied the Alpha X. These appear to use the older Race Master style with grub screws. I didn't like them from DAA, I'm quite certain they will be far worse when made out of knock-off Chinesium.
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