mikeinctown

If the problem exists when you are going faster my first area to look at would be bench stability. Feed issues, upside down cases, etc a lot of time is a result of bench movement. A case that wobbles of moves ever so slightly because of movement could be contributing to your problems.

It is that profile. I was loading my Blue Bullets to 1.135-1.140 in their 135 grain and would have no problems, but their 147s I had to shorten to 1.120 before they would chamber correctly.

Still more expensive for me than reloads plus I can't use the cases so beyond what I shot out of my PP226 when i first bought it, I don't touch them any longer. I don't see the appeal if you reload. I do feel it was snappier than my reloads but I have never reloaded with light bullets as they have always been 135 or 150 from Blue Bullets.

Adjustment of the shellplate is critical and can really help with the snapping into place. When I am placing a bullet on the case mouth as it goes into position I get no snapping and spilling, so I would imagine a bullet feeder that places the bullet one station earlier would almost eliminate it. I don't shoot 9 major but that is what helped me with 9 and especially the 380s I've loaded.

For 9mm Titegroup as it is cleaner than HP38 HP38 cause I got a ton and it is cheap N320 cause I was told it was good and it is similar to TG but foreign and double the cost so it must be better. Just bought some Sport Pistol last night so may load up some new ones and shoot them this weekend. Just want to find something that doesn't make my feed ramp look like it has a huge thick layer of carbon on it after 200 rounds. In that arena the TG was by far better than the HP38. (and felt good under 147s)

Thanks. What was the cartridge length? The Alliant data showed that with 3.5 and a 145 bullet that they were at over 140pf but it was loaded to 1.1 I believe so your use of more powder to get less pf is a bit of a surprise given the 10gn difference in bullet weight.

Tim shoots single stack major, so those charlies are 4 points. On that run posted he scored 52 points in 3.79 seconds for a HF of 13.72, which according to the score calc is way better than 100%. 100% in single stack is just above 10.8HF, so 13.72 is pretty damn high up there. (according to the on line calc) The point of the video for me though is footwork on the turn and transition speed. It is super freaking hard to do, but you need to learn to start pulling the trigger before you are even on target. We strarted practicing this in a training class I took and it is very unnatural and takes a lot of practice. (I'm still so far away) Tim does a footwork video on Youtube on how to turn and draw that helped me immensely on my turn and draws. I'm a shitty shooter so don't take advice from me, take it from the GM's putting the info out there.

OMG there is a thread about this? LMAO. I try to catch the round, just because it is money I don't want to leave on the ground. If I miss the catch then it disappears into the sea of brass and gravel. It isn't showboating, it is policing your live ammo.

Depends on what an owners manual or CZ actually says is how the gun is supposed to work. The RM can claim anything they wish, but if their opinions go against the original design then they would be wrong and showld be proven wrong. My CZ does the same thing. You can still pull the trigger with hammer down and hammer will move, but in SA and safety on the trigger won't budge.

8/14/17 Been doing a bit of dry fire every other day but not nearly as much as I need to. Have not been getting any live fire except for match time but ultimately matches are cheaper and provide way more feedback for me than local indoor ranges. Finished 52/69 yesterday and shot the classifier at 57%. Nuevo El Presidente... My absolute biggest issue is still steel, where I felt I was improving previous. I switched to the red fiber from green as it stands out better in the sunlight but also went with 147 grain instead of the 135s I had been using. (also switched from HP38 to Titegroup.) One of these things has really changed something for me because I couldn't hit the 6" steels to save my ass this time. at my last match I cleared a plate rack and texas star only wasting 4 shots total. This time we had steel on 5/6 stages and it had to easily have added 100 seconds to my time in addition to 40 rounds into the dirt/berm. Need to get out this week and shoot from a rest to see where the sights shots are going with the 147s and see if maybe my sight moved on me. I love the feel of the 147s as it seems like I'm getting the sights back on target quicker and shooting more A zone shots than I had previous. (last match I was able to hit the target at 50 yards but this match I can't hit steel at 10 yards. very frustrating) This week will be sight alignment at the range plus practice draws and reloads. Did I ever mention I hate living in the city where the indoor ranges suck...

LOL, thats EERW above. They'll just sell you what you need already done, though I guess if you are close you can also pay them to work on your stuff.

No, thats not right. You aren't comparing the right guns. The SP-01 shadow is still a shadow, but with the full length rail dust cover.

Plated bullets from everything I have read is less accurate for some reason that either FMJ or coated lead. I use BlueBullets and none that I have pulled have had any coating scraped off. In fact it is super thick and tough compared to the HiTek coated ones I have handled.

I'm pretty sure eggleston has several different sized bullets but they are fairly expensive compared to the bluebullets.

Meh, Cabelas is high on most everything compared with another large local place to me. Guns are always high, powder and primers are sorta high (bass pro is insane high) and they don't carry the good die sets. Cabelas for me is good for some cast iron cookware, vacuum sealing, some plated bullets on sale and one shot lube if the local place is out. Oh and fudge, lotsa fudge.

The one with the higher DA is likely just using a 13lb mainspring instead of the 11.5 mainspring. The 13 will light off anything and is the choice for my local smith at least. The 11.5 will light off Winchester and Federal. (or 8 vs the 11 but the 8 will only work with federal) The SA is the same between the two so (.1lb is almost not going to be noticable) unless one is not polishing all the surfaces they should, the only other thing it could be is the spring.

Was loading a thousand 380s for my girlfirend and started having all sorts of problems. I finally realized that the case slide deal on the 650 had loosened up and when I went to tighten the single bolt that goes through the plastic part that it took no effort for the bolt to get snug but then just spin in the insert. Called Dillon and they sent me the little white thing for the powder measure I broke and they sent me an entire slide assembly with the springs and all new hardware. (vs just the one part I needed) I couldn't ask for better CS than what I get whenever I call. Thank you!

I can attest that the Lee size die for 9mm sizes the case nice and tight. On a 45, the Leee and a Dillon are similar and the FCD actually sizes the case more for me, but on the 9mm, the Lee FCD is almost effortless and only touches the bell to straighten it out. Beyond that the case just slides right in.

I also use bluebullets. They have a forum code for 5% off here, you can use Stoeger for 5% off, or if you buy 10,000 at a time you get 10% of, or 12% if you don't use a credit card. Mor ethan 10k at a time gets you additional discounts but I couldn't see myself ordering $1,500+ in bullets at a time. For 9mm their 135s can be loaded pretty long due to their shape. I can load their 135s to 1.135no problem in my CZs and even my P226. Just got a sample pack of their 150s (147s) to load up yesterday and had to cut it back to aout 1.120 before the round bottomed easily in the barrel.

I own the $25 from amazon Frankford Arsenal scale. It's accurate to within .1 or maybe .01 and does what I need it to. I get close on the powder measure, weigh a single charge then weigh up 10 and if they are the same I start making ammo. I'd rather put that $$ into buying bullets or another training class.

Shadow 1 or 2 you really can't go wrong, but i woud skip the SP-01 in favor of the shadow. The used shadows can be had for a steal if you time it right where the 2 will come at a premium. i'm the type of person who would rather have a used gun a 30-40% off new and so I opted for a Shadow this past winter. Saved roughly 40% of what it would have cost me new.

Dryfire reloaded here. Some awesome drills to improve skills with many being possible in tight areas. One that I really need to do but have to figure out the room is to set up cones in a 15' diameter circle and run around them as fast as possible doing reloads.

Win 231/HP38 or Titegroup would probably be my choice of selection then. Low charges for minor and should be available nearly everywhere without ordering. Plus it is cheap! I haven't seen sport pistol from Alliant yet so can't comment.

What are you shooting and where are you located? Might be some better stuff out there for what you are shooting and available without ordering.

Do you lube the brass? I have found that I get a larger spread of variation when I do not lube the brass as the press works harder to force it into the dies. When I do not lube brass I also find that the top of the stroke where the ram is all the way up get difficult at times and it is easy to not complete the full stroke of the handle. (when I do go all the way on the handle, the press almost feels bound up and the ram wants to "bounce" back down a quarter inch. -- I do not have this issue at all when I use a bit on one shot on the brass)