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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About bandw1dth

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  1. What kind of groups are you getting now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Add just a bit more belling before seating them so as not to shave the coating. Then make sure you pull a few to check your crimp and make sure it’s not cutting into the coating, your not actually crimping per se, just removing the belling and nothing more. Do the plunk test on your barrel that needs rounds loaded the shortest and use that measurement to load all of them. Try 3.1gr - 3.2gr of N320. I found that to be the sweet spot for me with 147s Good luck
  3. I also really like that spreadsheet. Would you be opposed to sharing ?
  4. That’s a really good idea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Where’s a good place to get a quality scale check weight? Spending the least amount of money would be preferable. I know quality and cheap don’t necessarily go hand in hand but it’s worth a shot. What’s a good way to verify / calibrate a set of calipers? Maybe something that’s a precise diameter? For the life of me I can’t think of what their called. I had my old gun smith use a set of these to check the gas port on one of my ARs a while ago before he went outta business. Thanks for all the helps guys.
  7. [emoji23] I would never hear the end of it.
  8. What’s the smoke, accuracy and pf like on that load?
  9. You are correct to seat and crimp (remove belling) in two separate stages. There are a few things to consider when using the Lee FCD. I load for 9mm so adjust numbers for .40. Depending on how it’s adjusted, the Lee FCD does indeed remove the belling. It also “post-sizes” the entire round. It’s got a carbide sizing ring right at the mouth of the die. And if you’ve slugged your barrel and are shooting a slightly oversized bullet for a better gas seal ( I use .356-.357, in 9mm the average bbl diameter is .355-.3555 and mine slugged right at .3555 ) the Lee FCD will actually size the entire round to make sure it’s within SAMMI? specs for a loaded round, thus reducing the bigger diameter that your going for and creating all kinds of problems like poor accuracy, smoke and leading. This problem is more pronounced when shooting plated and lead rounds. The Lee FCD can be a really great check to make sure that everything is gonna chamber check ok, if the situation calls for it I opted for the Redding Taper Crimp die to remove the belling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Through trial and error I’ve learned that I get the most consistent shoulder bumps on my progressive when I set the press to have just a bit of camover. Typically I use an empty decapping die screwed in till it starts touching the shell plate. And then adjust from there for the right amount of camover. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Well I guess that about settles it then
  12. The neck tension hadn’t even occurred to me, thanks for that. I use a Lyman M die to expand the necks after sizing and also to open the necks a bit to seat flat base bullets. I might try to expand the neck a bit more than normal and try to seat then. So if you use a longer drop tube it’ll help the powder settle more?
  13. Hey fellas, So it’s finally annoyed me enough to get the opinion of the hive mind. When I load Hornady 75gr HPBT over 24.5grs of Varget which is a compressed load I get this really ugly indent from the seating stem on the bullets. Is there anything I can do about this? EDIT: I’m using the hornady seater with micrometer
  14. Who here trims pistol brass? Or even checks the case length? I never have and I primarily load mixed brass. Should I be checking the length?
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