mikeinctown

I did do those other things when I originally fitted the kit. This has been like this since I installed the kit. When I called CGW when I did the mods, they mentioned the spirngs and I measured the height of the lifter spring and made sure it was riding in the small groove on the trigger bar. By over travel screw I am assuming you mean the screw in the trigger, and yes, it is backed out.

It's been almost a year since I have touched anything as I've had some elbow issues. I'm finally feeling better and trying to get my backup tuned to be 100%. I have the CGW kit in it with their new disconnector and sear. When I pull the trigger all the way back in DA it sometimes does not release the hammer. I'm right on the edge with this as if I pull the trigger faster it will release half the time but if I pull very slowly, I run out of trigger travel before the hammer drops. I remember posting about this last year but never got around to doing the work. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the advice in the past was to remove a couple thousandths from the top of the disconnector. (not the bottom of the sear or front face of the disconnector) Before I do this I wanted to make sure I remembered what I was told way back when.

Federals do indeed squish easier as I can tell on my 650 when I check the brass after I found a difficult primer pocket. I have smashed 4-5 Federals in the last 500+ vs no Winchesters in the 2,000 I loaded previous to loading with the Federals. If the pocket is tight and the federals fit, they have a habit of flattening out, but still always pop. CCI primers just push in and don't even flatten a little.

You might want to give the Blue Bullets 135 profile a try. I can load them way longer in my Shadow than I can the 147 RN profile. They also seem very accurate for me in my gun and it feels like it cycles faster vs the 147s I tried. The coating is super think too and doesn't flake off or come off with a bullet puller in my experience so far. I use the 135s in my Shadow and also the 230 in my Sig .45.

My vote is for the Lee 4 die sets. The 3 die sets are very delicate as to needing to be exact to seat and crimp at the same time. At least my Hornady set was this way. The Lee 4 die sets are similar to the Dillon sets but 30% less cost.

I've ordered Freedom Munitions and had them ship me a thousand rounds. no issues at UPS In fact I didn't trust UPS to leave a call tag at my apartments so I gave my shipping address as the UPS hub and they held it there for me.

It's not about the distance between the DA stroke and the SA stroke, it is the distance between a used Shadow hammer in DA and a CGW SP-01 non shadow gun with the hammer in DA and SA. In SA both the shadow and non shadow appear to be in the same location, but in DA the Shadow Target hammer drops noticable sooner. Perhaps this is a "feature" of the CZC action jobs they perform on their pistols and as mine just has the CGW pro package without any additional work done besides polishing, perhaps that could be the difference. I was just wondering because I was getting light strikes on Winchester primers with the 11.5# hammer spring about 1-2 per 100. Perhaps the firing pin tip is just getting worn. I'll just order a new one as they are $20.

Sorry, just had a chance to take a look this morning. The difference is in DA. In SA the hammers appear to cock back the same distance.

I load 9mm so not switching the primer system over for 45 would be great. And I believe you are blowing the primer detonation thing way out of proportion as 650s are not "famous" for doing that. In fact if you asked people about their Dillon machines I'd be willing to be that this wouldn't even be in the top 50-100 of what they might tell you.

Sorry, not buying it. I've crushed Federal primers while pushing the handle forward to insert them into a crimped primer pocket. All brands can go off but to say you shouldn't use them is ignoring the tens of millions, if not hundreds of millions of rounds that have beeen safely loaded with them. As to the original question, you need to make sure you aren't loading crimped primer brass. I load Federals on my 650 now 2-500 at a time and I always manage to mangle one or two in that time. if you only want to load 50 then just put 50 into the tube and into the primer feed system. Advance the disk by hand until you see the first one and start loading.

That is a great idea. I know you posted dimesions but if you crank out a small batch at a reasonable price I am sure you'd sell quick. My last loading session I crushed 2 cases and a couple on the session before that. I know brass is cheap but having to stop and waste my time is frustrating.

What bullets are you loading? In addition to what Jack says, bulet coatings will cause the OAl to vary. Using lube on the brass also helps decrease the variance as the press is running smoother.

As the two are a different length you do need to adjust the hight of the press to compensate or you will find things not right. Going from the ball handle to the roller handle had me raising the press 2" to compensate for the diference in length and ergonomics. The ball works well for 1-200 rounds but after tha no matter how loose I held the handle, my palm and or fingers would start hurting.

When I took the magazines apart I could feel what I would describe as a small nick with my nail on one of the feed lips. I took some super fine paper and got what I could and put some new springs in. All rounds are very tight now but they all slide out the same with none seeming any tighter than another. I can only guess that the mag dropped empty into the gravel and hit just right at some point. Haven't gotten a chance to test for functionality yet.

That may be possible but every round is run the same. All the brass is wet tumbled and sprayed with One Shot before runnig through the press. It is almost as if the round has sandpaper on it but it feels in my hand no different. As the brass came from the range I wonder if somehow the case walls got abraided and have very fine scratches keeping them from feeding?

No, the follower is not the issue as far as I can tell. In almost all cases it is not the last round in the magazine. This past weekend it was actually the first round, and in past instances there is at least one left below the round in question.

I'm putting this question in here as they are not factory rounds but rather stuff I have loaded from mixed range brass. There are times when I fire a shot near the end of the mag, reload, and then find that no round had been chambered. Occasionally as what happened to me last weekend I tried to rack the slide twice before dumping the mag and inserting a fresh one. When I got done with the stage and inspected the mag I found that the top round was almost stuck in the mag under the feed lips. Upon removing it the next round slid easily so I put the round in question back in the magazine and again found it would not feed when pushed out with my thumb. I set the mag aside at the end of the match along with the round but have not inspected further. At the end of each stage I dump every mag I used and then reload all with 10. I have found that while doing this dump I often find the top round very difficult to push out, but I chalk it up to the mag hitting the ground and the bullet getting lodged in there as all other then dump fine. In fact this is almost always the case, with nearly all rounds sliding out like butter but one or two odd ones here and there just feel "stuck". FWIW I am shooting a CZ shadow with the nickel 17 round MecGar magazines. As i have noticed lately the gun not going to slide lock here or there, I am replacing the springs, but am wondering if there is something else to look for? Oh, and the range I shoot at most often has gravel and dirt bays rather than grass or sand. Loading on a Dillon 650 with Lee dies in all stations.

Exactly. My first match the RO helped me along and told me if I was shooting too high/low/whatever on a texas star and a couple other steels. I came back because of him. I finished at like 19% of score, so even D class shooters had zero to worry about when I got coached.

I'm with the others. Having a no shoot behind steel only penalizes shooters who are already slower and not as good anyway. Any time someone claims they need to slow someone down, all they are doing is making it more difficult for everyone else and extremely difficult for those newer shooters that you are going to eventually need to RO and help with setuip and tear down. The good peoiple are going to win anyway and you'll alienate some people who don't want to deal with the nonsense. I'm all about tough shots, but do it where you are covering half a metric target with a no shoot or leave the head box open, or cover half with black/hard cover. OR do it virginia count. 6 plates, 6 shots, NPM... aim well and you'll be rewarded.

Thanks for the suggestions. Well they are just sitting on my table so using them would be better than letting them get rusty. I'll just use the ones I got and be super careful taking them apart for cleaning. New ones going on order for next time. BTW, have you had a chance to use or look at any of the orange ones that they have at the benstoegerproshop? I like the idea of high viz orange and for $2 a pop they are cheap enough to try.

Lubing cases is better than having the roller handle. The roller handle saves the palm of your hand. The motion needed to use the ball or roller handle is the same. The only difference is that the ball handle is longer and you do not use as much arm motion. When I finally switched to the roller handle I had to raise the press a couple inches over what it was with the ball handle. Unlubed cases with either handle sucks, but lubed cases makes things a breeze no matter which handle.

Regardless of who believe the other is right or wrong, I am wondering if the disco might be the reason I had been getting light strikes on Winchester primers even with my 11.5# main spring. After I read this thread and popped a new spring in the gun I put my Shadow side by side with my 75 SP-01 that I just installed the CGW stuff in without modification. The Shadow hammer drops significantly earlier and I can visibly see that the normal 75 hammer goes almost all the way back to the beavertail while the Shadow drops an easy couple mm earlier. (1/8" is what it looks like to be honest) The gun has had a ton of dry fire in addition to about 25,000 claimed rounds and am wondering what parts I should look at ordering to freshen it up. (new disco and trigger bar?)

Excellent, thanks. Like the quantity discount as others wanted like $7 each with no discount. Would figure since I just did an order with CZ last week and didn't realize the other springs I bought wouldn't work.

If you are running any volume a 650 makes more sense than a 550. If you are doing more than a couple thousand rounds a month save up and get a 1050 instead then upgrade to an autodrive. If I wasn't planning on buying a new car next summer I'd be grabbing a super 1050/Mark 7 combo. The time saved swaging brass and using a bullet feeder and casefeed is amazing. I have a 650 and will hopefully have a Mr Bullet Feeder by end of year.

I believe the spacer washers come with the casefeeder when you buy it new. I know there were some extra spacers that I got.