mikeinctown

I use my left index finger and roll it out. Same thing and it works great.

A well used shadow can be had for a grand or less, and one of the factory variants a little more (accu and target) I'd go with a regular safety SP-01 before getting the tactical. The regular can be had for $600 and the tactical costs like a hundred more now. The safety model is easier to work on as well. If you buy the regular you will be polishing and buying the CGW parts which is a $300 bill, plus some grips, springs, new sight set, and maybe a couple other things. You'll have an easy $400 extra in it if you do your own work. I'm still fine tuning the SP-01 that I added all the CGW stuff to. Taking it back down this weekend and doing more polishing as I think I missed some critical areas last go round.

The 2" is from the inside, not 2" from the actual belt location. So unless you have a huge ass, a mag placed in your back pocket would be within 2" from the inside of the belt when measured vertically anyway. At my last match we had an unloaded start and so I jammed my first mag inside my belt behind my hip bone and grabbed it first. Going to add a 6th pouch for those unloaded start stages as I normally just use a knife pocket on my 5.11 pants for the first mag, but it is just slightly forward legal so I cannot use it for unloaded starts.

7/14/17 About an hour of dry fire practice last night. Maybe 5 minutes of target transition and the rest just drawing to first shot. My copy of Stoeger Dryfire Reloaded came in and it is clear that nothing else will really improve and my par times will never hit the mark if I can't draw to sights quickly and accurately. Also pacticed gripping the gun much harder than I had been which is helping with the sight picture. Hands hurt like a bitch though this morning and I have some skin missing on the top of the webbing where my hand rides on the beavertail. Had to call it quits when my hands started hurting bad from where the skate tape on the front strap was digging in. Also working on always placing my hand along the bottom of the holster in the same place so that my hand always comes up on the grip the same spot to get the same draw every time. Up until now it has been hit or miss with the gun sometimes getting stuck in the holster because of the angle I'm pulling at.

I'm not a Tanfo guy so forgive me if it is normal, but the angles look jacked on the right side of the back of that trigger bar where on the left side the angles are more square. As it is mentioned that the two ride on different sides, having one side angled differently could be an issue. Also not sure how far over the disco rides, but it looks in at least two of the photos like there are burrs or some deformity.

What is your PF with that load? In my CZ it takes 3.2 with 147s to make 130, so going lighter and with a lighter bullet would likely not pass chrono for me.

Not sure where you are but see if you have a local person to fall back on if you have issues. I installed the pro package and am not competing IDPA so I chose the race hammer and like the profile better than the CZC hammer. The trigger behaves different than my CZC Shadow Target does and I'm not sure it is because of my install or because it is supposed to be that way. For that reason I am likely going to let the local gunsmith who worked on the CZs for the local range team take a look at it and see if he can't get it where I feel more comfortable. I'm sure it is literally just a matter of passing one part over a stone or something simple to remove a burr I may not have seen.

It is great. last year I checked out a couple matches and also stopped and watched a few IDPA matches. USPSA won out by a huge margin. Shooting a Shadow Target that I bought used from a member here over the winter. Also have a backup SP-01 that I installed all the CGW stuff in, but I will probably have the local CZ gunsmith take a look at it as something doesn't feel quite right when I compare it to the Shadow with the CZC work done. My accuracy on steel is killing me. Or should I say my tendency to pull the gun down and to the left as I pull the trigger is killing me. Ran a stage Sunday and was doing great. 31 rounds and I just needed to put my 29, 30, and 31st round onto steel. First two no problem then bam, missed the last one, forcing me to reload, go from slide lock and take another shot. Watching the video it cost me like 3-5 seconds if not more. Another round I shot a texas star and missed the first plate with three shots and then hit the 5 plates with 6 total shots after. Same happened with a plate rack where I missed the first then assumed I got a hit on the last one but it really only hit the base and didn't knock the plate down. Had to regrip and shoot the last one. Lost more time there. I know where I'm messing up and how I'm messing up, but just need to keep putting in the time to rectify those small screw ups. Hopefully as I note my matches and screw ups they change and I see a slow progression forward to less mikes and better scores.

Been shooting pretty much my whole life but just started in USPSA production division this year. The classifiers I have shot so far would have earned me a solid D, a low B, and a high D. Guessing I'll wind up a D for a month or so and hope to end the year at a C and actually perform at a C level. Goal next year (2018) is to be at least a B. Have taken one training class so far and the first match after the class is where I shot in the top half of the field and earned the B in the classifier. My last match I apparently forget everything I had practiced and it all fell apart. (still finished better than 20% of the others) Oddly enough, I actually had range time indoors which I think hurts me because I can't draw from a holster, drop mags, or do much of anything like I would in an actual match or outdoor training. I have very very limited live range time and NO time at an out door range. Hoping this fall to get a membership slot at the range where the matches are held as there will be someone new leasing the property. Next match in 2 weeks. Will be doing dry fire drills after work but will not get any time live fire. Doing dry fire drills from Stoeger and Hopkins. Working right now on getting sight picture as quickly as possible and developing arm and hand memory to make that happen. Still need to get a good timer for training purposes.

I'm a one eye guy and have been trying in dry fire to do two eyes open. The hardest part is not focusing on anything so I can get a decent sight picture. otherwise I see two separate front sights. I am a righty with left eye dominant. As soon as I hear a start signal though I always default to one eye and blast away. I've found a lot of top shooters do the same thing including some who tape glasses or other tricks so I'm at least more comfortable knowing that if I can't train myself on two eyes open that I am not alone.

I got a DAA PDR Pro and still check the night before just to make sure that nothing slipped or moved. I had to add two small washers to mine to tighten up the fit of the hydex portion to the mounting bracket but overall I haven't had to readjust yet.

Thats what happens when you have 6-8 people ready to paste and waiting for the scoring person to come by. The very first ones done usually have a couple people pasting and then the rest of the group goes and stands near a group of targets and waits. As soon as the score is called, boom, they get pasted and the person leaves the area. By the time the scoring was complete there might have been one target still in process of being pasted. It's really a non issue and I said 30 seconds just because it is so easy and fast that if you only had one or two people doing it after they were all scored, it would only take that long. It seems silly that we would almost be fighting over targets but to me that is far better than two people or even one person trying to get everything and then accidentally forgetting a target. The one thing I don't like is for others besides the scoring person to call out the scores on targets they are standing near. I'd rather have a single person verify every target. I generally point at the holes and make note if there are more than two. The person scoring can yell out the scores. The idea of a rotating squad of a couple would be fine but you always have people reloading mags or running to the can, etc. Unless it is raining, then let a couple people go get wet while everyone else stays dry.

Except you aren't factoring in the time that is spent showing the last competitor his scores, calling out the next person up, person on deck, and in the hole. Timers and tablets get handed to another person because that person has to prepare for something, go to the restroom or whatever. There is PLENTY of time in between the actual scoring and when the next shooter gets the make ready command. You guys are acting as if nothing happens or can happen at the same time and that it is one thing, then another once that first thing stops. All I see are excuses as to why you can't just pay attention and wait until you know for sure the target has been scored. The only time anyone had to wait at a match from yesterday was when we were pasting the targets 40 yards down range and even then it only took a couple seconds longer than it did for the scorers to finish walking back. Every other stage was done getting pasted by the time the scorer had shown the previous shooter their score and called the next shooter up.

So you follow the guy calling out the scoring. It's not rocket science and takes seconds to paste a target. There have been a few stages where there are three targets and one person pasting. It takes a minute. It seems like you are making excuses for stupididity. If you actually have a paster gun it is even faster as two people can do a stage just as fast as the person can call out the scores.

Not sure why it is so hard a concept to not paste before you are supposed to. I just stand by a target until I see the person physically pass by and announce the score. If there is a question if the target was already scored I just ask if they were scored. I know for sure they all were if I see the person at the end of the stage showing the pad to the competitor. Waiting until the end literally adds maybe 30 seconds of time to make sure it is always done correctly. At my local matches we usually have 15 people on a squad and people many times each have one target to paste and so they just stand by one. This takes into account the shooter, tablet holder, person scoring, and even a couple others reloading after already shooting that aren't doing anything.

Thank you. So I can go the little bit lower on the hanger according to the terminology. I had the entire butt of the gun above the belt but can lower it the last half inch.

There is no reason for him to need to use jacketed bullets. His dad has wo presses and will likely be teaching. there is also a pregressive press and so double charges are very unlikely. On my 650 I am not even sure you can have a double charge because the press wants to index near as soon as you get the ram half way down and before the rod pulls the powder bar back into the position to fill with powder. Literally all it takes to learn is to slowly run the die down a little at a time until you have the correct diameter at the case mouth and then pull a bullet to see if the coating is damaged. It is a 15 minute process, not a year long process of loading 2,000 rounds of something else. In my CZ 3.2 makes 130PF with 147 coated lead.

Yes, that was my question, or at least the majority. Just wasn't sure if the entire thing needed to be above, or the majority or some other amount. Other rules are fairly cut and dry with measurements for example. An exact amount. I am likely wrong on my terminology but to me the butt of the gun is where you insert the mag, so the heel would be the back portion of that, not the entire bottom of the gun. This is where I am getting confused.

This may seem like a really easy question but in production the rules say butt of gun above top of belt, but not entire butt of gun or any other specific wording. The picture shown in the appendix is fairly generic as well. My holster can be adjusted down another half inch or so beyond what it is now but then the entire butt would not be ablve the belt, just 3/4 of the butt would be. Given that things really aren't cut and dry with respect to rulings (barrel bushings, hammers) is the rule the entire butt of the gun, a majority, or any portion? Thanks

There was a new shooter who was after me the entire match and he recorded me with my phone on a few stages. I was able to record him as well so it worked out. All I can say is holy crap I see where I'm losing so much time. Just on my last stage in my head I'm running and moving fast but on video I'm moving at more of a quick walk. I'm taking 1/2 second between shots when in a last match I was pulling the trigger almost as fast as I could on many targets. Having to come from slide lock too often, and on my last stage, missed my 31st shot and went to slide lock then had to do a reload for my last shot on steel. Cost me 3 seconds right there. On another I can see just how many misses I had on a texas star and plate rack and the valuable seconds I lost. I see how I'm leaning forward too much and losing time in movement. Holy crap I never realized just how much one could learn from a darn cell phone video.

I had a 2022 in 40 S&W and wound up selling it after only a few boxes of ammo through it. Mags were harder to find used and new ones are pricey given the cost of the new gun. The frame didn't lend itself to my hands the way that a P226 does or my CZs or even my Sig 1911. Before buying one I would see if there may be someone local to you where you could feel it and see how it feels in the hand. By contrast the new P320 feels pretty darn good in my hands, even better than the FNS-40 I had for a year or two and light years better than I remember the 2022 being. Maybe a used P226? Don't know what they go for there but I am seeing them used cheaper and cheaper here, though the new ones are still top dollar. CZ does make a manual decocker 75 as well as the safety model, though not sure what is available to you. As the CZ 75/shadow is fairly heavy, a polymer gun might be the ticket for a younger person anyway. BTW, there is a video that people link to here often showing how to manually decock the CZs and all you do is put your index finger in it and roll it out and up and the hammer drops slowly. No worries about trying to hold the sides with your finger or anything. BTW sorry if you already made a decision, just saw the original post date

I thought the same thing when I'd load 2-300 rounds at a time for a range session. Then I loaded 1,000-1,500 and I was like F this damn handle.

I just started tumbling with the pins. I also don't decap before tumbling. It takes several days for the cases to dry completely and I move them around a couple times a day to make sure none are stuck together end to end and keeping from drying. After a few days I put them in a ziplock. I've found that if I give them at least two days to dry that there are no issues. If I try to put them in after 24-48 hours that the bag will develop condensation. I then dump out and dry for one more day.

If it doesn't have the roller handle or strong mount order them now. Either use the dillon versions or the one from inline fabrication.

The adapter for the 650 40S&W is purple