mikeinctown

If you disassemble the primer system make sure you grease the wheel with all the holes back up. You need that to be well lubricated. My first instinct would be as sarge suggested in that the inside tube the primers slide down is not seated all the way in place. You can usually tell because the screw cap on the outside heavy tube doesn't screw down all the way.

Federals are softer and I have noticed on my 650 that the brass wich have slightly tighter primer pockets do cause the primers to flatten out some as they get pushed in. So far not a single one has failed to go bang. Winchesters are a bit harder anddon't flatten out the same for me on tight primer pockets.

100% agree. I know that most people claim a Dillon 550 should be a good first press, but on a 650 with auto indexing it is darn near impossible to get a double, and if you install a light or powder sensor in there it makes it even harder. Even when I first thought about reloading, powder choice based on case volume was never even on my radar. BTW shot Sport Pistol at a match yesterday and had zero issues. Cleaner for sure than HP38 and possibly a bit better than Titegroup but so far I am only going by what I see on the feedramp and other chamber area visable during the clear and holster command. Will know more later when I do a field strip and wipe the parts down.

Are you using lube on the brass? I would get as much as .007 on coated lead but lubing with one shot got me around .003 which is more than good enough. When you are setting the seating die are you placing a normal case in station 1 so that there is even pressure on the shellplate? Are some handle pulls a bit harder than others?

Biggest difference for me so far is actually turning my head faster instead of looking through the sights for that extra split second. You turn your head and the gun will go that way. Still developing the memory though to have the gun stop with a good sight picture as my arms swing to the next target. Lots more dryfire needed.

I have a half dozen of the nickel plated Mecgar mags for my Shadow. Recently the gun hasn't always been going to slide lock when the magazine is empty so I got some replacement Wolff springs. Only problem is that the springs are a bunch narrower than the Mecgar springs and they do not fit around the plastic baseplate to snap in place. I pulled out one of my OE 19 round mags and they have metal plates with a hook that will work with the Wolff springs. Does everyone who runs Wolff springs just order new factory baseplates for their Mecgar mags, or are you using some other baseplate/spring combination? If you are using some other spring besides the Wolff springs, where are you ordering from?

The new stainless ones I got have a snug hole. So while the old one just about fell out on the Shadow, I had to tap the pin in with the back of a screwdriver. On my regular SP-01 the spring steel was also snug and required the small punch to pop out and also required the screwdriver to pop back in. Not trying to argue, but just putting it out there just in case someone thinks their stuff is messed up because the pin isn't loose.

Well I know from talking to the person at CZC on Tuesday that the shadow flat plug I got and the 75 plug with the loop on it are interchangeable. (and it's probably been said here like 10,001 times) The flat one cost me $9 and it didn't cost any more to ship so I just added it on to my order. For $9 I would just order a new one the next time you order springs and other refresh parts. The mag brake cost me $10 and if it means I never have to deal with that pain in the a$$ spring steel with the clip again, I'm all about spending that $10. As Ben says, Ain't nobody got time for that sh..

Holy crap I only WISH one of the ranges I shoot at would do even one hose fest stage. I've shot there 6 times so far this year and another on this coming Sunday and there hasn't been one yet. The designer claims he is intentionally trying to make it as difficult as a level 2 or higher match o that we're prepared for if and when we want to shoot a bigger match. So we're frequently shooting from a box around a wall, through a 4" port, low ports, weak hand, distance, lots of no shoots are always all over with stuff behind barrels, 170* shots, lots of movement, etc. One stage a couple matches back had us shooting at like 30, 40, and 50 yards. The stages sure exploit how shitty one is, BUT I will say that it is always a good time and the match fills to capacity (75) a week out so there are lots who also like the challenge.

OK, the new parts came in a minute back and the new plug they sent me was #10042 Full Size Flat MS Plug and it looks like the one shown on the left hand side of the photo a couple posts up. (channel goes all the way through) The mag guide/brake is part number #10048 and is labeled as CZ75 Full Mag Brake STL (stainless) This is the one for the Shadow Target variant but CZC told me it will fit my stock SP-01 as well. Going to hit them with the polisher before install and make them all pretty.

My Shadow Target plug has the closed end plug like the one on the right, though I do not remember if looks ground down. I have a new one coming from CZ which should be here this morning as I'm changing out the non flat one on my SP-01 and will let you know what it looks like.

FYI they aren't supposed to be uniform in their height. One side lifts up on the bar slightly while the other should ride even when popped off the little grooves on the underside of the trigger bar. (this according to CGW)

FWIW I put all CGW parts in my SP-01 and had EXACTLY the same problems as you do. No DA fire on a slow pull and the double click on the SA reset. I took everything apart and polished it all back up again and that seemed to help a little but I think I need to polish even more. I used the CGW sear and all other parts sold in their pro kit. I know the tolerances are extremely tight as I added a bunch of lube to all surfaces in there and now it fires all the time, but the DA trigger literally has to almost touch the frame before the hammer falls. It is my dry fire/backup gun so I am not terribly worried at this point but will just take it to a gunsmith in a few months or send it to CGW as it has all their parts and just let them tune it. (would rather not pay the darn shipping fees if possible though) Another thing, make triple sure you polished the heck out of that plunger hole in the slide where the firing pin block is. Also make triple sure you polished the heck out of the underside of the trigger bar as the machines surface is not smooth at all and almost has ripples in the machining marks, at least on mine.

That may be true assuming that all parts are 100% within spec.

Aussie, just so you are clear, the Undersize die is only undersized by .001. Unless you are having problems with a normal die, I'd not give it a second thought. Lee dies already size pretty far down the case as their radius isn't as large as a Dillon die. Best to load some and see how they work in your guns and then adjust as necessary as there is no reason to spend money on dies unless needed.

Wow, that looks great. According to their eBay page it is about 500 lumens which is a ton of light in there. The Starlight also mentioned says about 185 lumens plus I'd need an extra board for each tool head. Glad I no longer have to choose between the center light and the center light. Will be ordering something soon as I have been trying to figure out how to get more light out of my ceiling light fixture. BTW how do you like that roller setup on the index?

Will this work with the 050-390 fiber front? I recently put that on as it is same height as stock.

I have an SP-01 Shadow and a 75-SP-01. The mag guide on the shadow is a thick non bendable metal which just slides into place from the side while the grips are off while the one on the regular SP-01 is a spring steel that frigging bends and clips into place into the mainspring plug. (total PIA that I still can't get used to) Can the spring steel guide be cut so that it doesn't clip into place in the plug? Figured I'd ask before cutting, ruining, and needing to order replacement parts. And will the Shadow mag guide fit a regular SP-01?

So I guess it is bad that I have 15k of them now? My local place gets a case every once in a while and if I call once or twice a week there is generally a box or two left from the case and I can have them set aside for me. (Have enough Federals that I've been trying to sell off a case of Winchesters)

As I have a larger waist I don't have an issue with my Ghost pouches and my DAA Competition belt bending, but if I was a bunch skinnier I could see there being a problem since there are 6 pouches on the belt. They would almost need to be touching and even then they would extend halfway around the back and the belt would not be bending very easily at that point. I think it comes down to your division as a limited shooter with different placement of gear would not have the same potential issues I would have in production.

You are doing it wrong. You don't need to have the hammer fall or have the trigger break for every "shot". For example, my DA/SA doesn't reset into SA after I do the DA pull and pulling every shot in DA is absurd. So I pull the first shot in DA then release the trigger halfway and just mash it back as if I would do if actually firing the gun in SA. Some people here just tape the hammer back so every shot would feel like it is in SA but the hammer never falls. The point is not about making the striker or hammer fall, but rather where your sights are when you pull that trigger back and whether they move or not. You will notice that if your sights are moving when you would normally shoot live rounds that they will do the same when you mash the trigger back in dry fire. Dry fire can be as simple as learning to effectively draw from your holster to the first shot. 5 minutes a day on draws can significantly speed up your draws and get sights on target quickly. For example I shot a classifier on Sunday that required two strings each woth a draw and one reload. I shot at 69%, but if I could have sped up my draw by a half second and the reload by half second on each string I would have shot it in M class percentage. 2 seconds is the difference between 69% and just under 90%. A couple months back I would have shot the same classifier at 50%, if even that. You don't need an hour a day. You literally can improve a bunch just spending 15 minutes a day, or even every other day.

Wait, is it shaving brass, or the coating? I believe we are all assuming the coating by the way it is worded. What dies are you using? On the 9mm Lee dies I have, the seating die actually takes the bell out and leaves almost nothing for the factory crimp die to do. The way you might be able to combat the problem if using a Lee die is to raise the die further up but lower the seating stem down. This way the die won't run so far down on the case, yet the bullet will still get seated properly. I know on my press, the seating die is threaded much higher while I have my crimp die almost touching the shellplate, like the sizing die.

I'd be checking your equipment and ordering some new springs or something. The only FTFs I've had in the last 3,000 rounds have been because I am running an 11.5 mainspring and using winchester primers. -only started getting an FTF every 100 rounds between rounds 2,000-2,500. I then switched to Federal primers and had one FTF in the last 500 and no FTEs in the 3,000+ rounds since I bought the gun used. I've been using HP38 which is way dirty and Titegroup which is noticably cleaner than the HP38 In the next two weeks I am putting in a new firing pin spring, likely replacing the firing pin, and while I'm at it a new trigger spring. Already has a newer recoil and main spring.

So they are claiming you go lead poisoning from handling copper?

N320 and the other variants are almost 2x the cost vs something like TiteGroup, CFE pistol, or the new Alliant Sport Pistol. For match rounds it might be worth it to keep your gun cleaner but I don't see an upside with spending 2x as much when other powders do the same thing.