mikeinctown

Most likely the actual flourescent light wasn't the issue but the old style ballasts that were in use. Older ballasts had a construction in which there was a heavy transformer inside plus some other electronic components which would buzz and hum and make noise. Newer ballasts are all electronic and don't make any noise and should not cause issues with any electronics. As far as my scale, I just have it sitting on the bench within arms reach. I use it when checking the powder drop at the start of each loading session and then maybe for a case or two during just to confirm. I usually use it and it gets put away within 5 minutes.

I hope this helps a little bit. "basically" lol

After looking at it, that's kinda how I'm viewing it. If I wanted a plastic gun I'd go buy an XDM. I went CZ because of the steel frame.

The bracket doesn't float. It is attached to the ram which moves up and down. On the upstroke, the case and powder drop operate the powder measure. On the downstroke, the linkage with the bushing pull the two powder hopper bars back into position and ready for the next charge. If you have the wingnut and spring tightened correctly, that bushing will have force applied to it on the bottom of the downstroke and will normally pop right into place. I can take a video of it tonight when I get home and post it up.

It really doesn't need to be tight. Mine almost floats in there. The only thing it is there for is to move the powder bar into the original position when the ram moves all the way down. As the ram goes up, there is no need for this part. As the ram goes down, it pushes against the fat base of that bushing, which pulls the powder bar back into position.

I'm looking for a suitable minor load for 135gn Blue Bullets using HP38. Based on my searches, I should be looking at around 3.8 if I'm loading a little longer, or obviously less if I'm loading shorter. These will mostly be getting shot out of a CZ SP-01 or a well worn SP-01 shadow target. The powders I have available on my shelf right now are Unique, Bullseye, BE86, and HP38. I'd rather not go buy yet another powder if I don't have to, but pretty much everything except Clays is in stock locally right now.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but you expect a compact gun with a short barrel to be accurate at 50 yards? That would be some good shooting for sure. (or really good luck)

That slot is only for the rod to pass through, not the bushing. The bushing goes in from the bottom. If you raise the ram a few inches, the bushing will easily seat below the bracket and when you lower the ram back down, the bushing will usually pop into place. At least that is how it works on my 650.

I'd personally skip these; Powder check - Bullet tray - low powder sensor I keep my bullets in one of those akro bins like the machine has on it for dropping the finished cartridge and I have no problem moving my hand the 6" or so it takes to go from the bin to case mouth. The powder check is a light and my eyes. In fact I'd rather have a light in the press so I can see whats going on. Last is the powder sensor. The powder hopper is clear. Just look up and you can see how much you have. just take a moment to look every time you add brass into the casefeed, or add primers into the tube. (and if you insist on the powder check, then you'd know if something was going wrong anyway)

Black Friday deal for Double Alpha Code BLACKFRIDAY 5% any order, 10% off over $150 and 15% off orders over $250.

I'm on the Blue Bullets mailing list and haven't gotten a thing from them. And Sarge, that really surprises me as there hasn't been a run on anything leading up to the election where I am. In fact since I started reloading I haven't ever seen more shelves full of powder than right now. There only seems to be two unicorns where I live right now. Federal SPP and Clays. FWIW here is the Cabelas Black Friday paper. Only thinks on Friday of interest to me is a Ruger 10/22 for $190 and Remington ammo with a rebate. Other things that are noteworthy for me at least are the Frankford Arsenal tumbler for $130 and 25% off Camp Chef accessories as well as 20% off Merrell boots and shoes with a $20 Cabelas bucks offer. Oh, and my local store got in more of the Berry's in 9mm, 380 Auto, and ,45ACP at 20% off. https://www.blackfriday.fm/adscan/cabelas

I was hoping for a Blue Bullets black friday deal but someone else posted in another thread that they were told there wouldn't be one. the coating on the Blue Bullets is awesome, at least on the 45s I buy so I wanted a case of 9mm. Going to have to compare the costs of the others now.

Is your RO buying your bullets for you? I'm with rowdyb on this one. All being equal, go with the one your press likes the best or runs smoothest with. (and produces most consistant OAL)

Every page I click to on this site this week I first get a warning from McAfee that the site is a yellow security risk and I have to click through to every page. I don't know what may have changed, or if it is picking up new adware, but it's getting really old. Oh, and the back button isn't working properly as a click shows I've gone 4 pages from where I start to when I see the actual page on the forum I clicked to.

They're either plain steel or coated steel.

Just a thought, but I have a foodsaver vacuum sealer and have vacuum sealed several boxes of primers and ammo for long term storage, just so I am sure no humidity will cause issues.

I'm sure most of you all play with people who will do this, but at the couple of matches I have stopped and watched this year, anyone who was doing scoring or taping was being offered a reload of their magazines. Seeing this is one of the reasons why I am planning on shooting USPSA in 2017 and getting into the game so to speak. Everyone was so friendly, offered great advice, and was offering to help each other get their equipment ready. -to the point of stripping a mag and reloading just to be sure it had the correct number of rounds. I noticed a few newer people on one of the squads I was watching as the people would talk to them about the stage would progress, how to best shoot some plates, etc. So for all you guys who do this, thanks, because it really helps get others involved.

The strong mount may not be necessary, but it sure helps to keep the rest of your bench top at a reasonable height. My press is mounted with a strong mount to an old section of countertop with laminate on 3/4 base with a second layer of 3/4 banding at the front and back. I get no flex from the surface. Any movement is from the supporting structure, which I don't have anchored to a wall. For now I get along just using a lot of weight on the shelves below the press. My next order of Dillon supplies will contain the roller handle. In batches of 100 or 200, the stock handle works fine. Beyond 200 and that solid ball starts to become a pain in the backside.

I have a 650 and had always thought that getting a 1050 for the amount of ammo I produce would be silly. Then people started pointing how how some of the police brass they are now seeing has crimped primer pockets. Then I supervised my son loading ammo and how he would not always seat the primers on the push stroke and get the cases screwed up being pushed into the shellplate. And then I remembered how I hurt my shoulder last year and was out of commission for over 2 months. (an autodrive system would solve that) So in essence, I started to think that the 1050 would be of a much bigger benefit for those three reasons even if I don't even load 5,000 or 10,000 rounds in a single year. If you have the funds, go for it. Oh, and from what I have read, there is a period where there will be issued to iron out, but once you do everything is trouble free.

Thanks for posting this up. Cabelas has Berry's on sale right now for 20% off but many popular sizes are now sold out. I was about to place an order for a case of Blue Bullets in 9mm, so the heads up should really help.

Why use a tupperware container? I dump a pile in a ziplock bag, open bag and spray the lube in there for a second or two, then agitate and do again if I have a lot of brass in there. The bag gets sealed while you agitate and there is no smell from the lube until you open the bag. I usually then just dump the bag into a cardboard soda tray if I need to let them dry for a few minutes. If the bag gets a hole in it, well it gets tossed in the trash and I've used all of 5 or 10 cents. ' I've never cleaned a round after loading. the lube dries onto the case and if anything, would help the rounds slide up in the magazine easier.

All month long Berry's plated bullets have been on sale at Cabelas for 20% off. At my local store all but the 40 S&W are gone from the shelves but they can still be ordered on line. When I did the math, the 380s and 45s that I picked up wound up being cheaper with discount than ordering coated bullets in qty. For example, the 1,000 ct box of 380 auto I got was $63 after discount, which is cheaper than coated per bullet.

Make sure you have dial or digital calipers for measuring, a powder charge scale, bullet remover of some sort, and of course a reloading chart from at least the company you are using for powder. I usually try to check two sources to make sure the numbers are at least close. I've also found the members here give better info in general than do the manuals.

Wondering what was decided on? I got a 650 as my first press and it works as it should. I know for a fact that I would have screwed something up had I gotten a 550 as my first press. Would have forgotten to advance the shellplate and possibly dd a double charge, forgot a primer or something silly, etc. the 650 lets me keep focused on the most important thing, visually checking powder and setting the bullet. One of the above posters mentioned the indexing advancing and then realizing a case didn't get shoved in place. I'm really not sure how this is possible since you have to phtysically push forward on the handle to seat the primer, and when you do this, the machine pushes the case the rest of the way into the shellplate. So if you can't push the handle and seat the primer, that should be the first indication to stop.

Exactly. The amount of force required on a handle pull is significantly reduced when using something like One Shot. In fact it's pretty much like the difference between putting a knife through a stick of butter out of the fridge, and one sitting on the counter for 2 hours. So even though the carbide dies don't need it, your press runs much smoother and your arm works effortlessly.