mikeinctown

I can go to Practiscore and I can view matches, but when I click on my dashboard I just get a 504 error. If I click on view public profile I get the page showing the ads on the sides but it is blank otherwise. Does this do me using both Firefox and Microsoft Edge. Was able to view my dashboard earlier in the week. Anyone else having trouble or is it just me?

Figured I'd ask because the screw on mine was so close at one point it would fire sometimes but not others until I set it for more clearance. The other thing I found that caused me issues was that the the spring under the trigger bar was not set right and riding in the groves in the trigger bar and I needed to lubricate the sear assembly better so the parts had free movement. This was not on a shadow 2 though it was on a gun I just fitted with the CGW Production package which includes the 85 trigger, new disco and their hammer.

Is it posible the set screw moved some on the trigger, not allowing it to move far enough back to release the hammer?

So what hornady Die set do I have then that has an integral seat/crimp that came in the .380 box? Or are you talking about a Lee seat/crimp die as not being available? In any event the Hornady set I got sucked and the Lee set rocked.

If you are doing high volume of two calibers and both those calibers are known to need primer pockets swaged, then go with the 1050. You'll probably do one toolhead with the trimmer to do case prep on the rifle stuff and other toolheads to do the 9 and rifle loading. On the 650 I am limited in speed because of the need to push the arm forward after each stroke to insert the case into the shellplate and insert the primer. For this reason alone the 1050 is better. Yes, there is a 100% difference in initial cost but time is money and being able to do a lot more rounds in less time helps put a bigger dent into the ammo savings. For me, the savings is about $4 a box for 9mm loading myself and over $10 a box loading .45ACP. For high dollar stuff like .45 Colt or 38 Super, the savings adds up really quick as my LGS is near $40 a box on .45 Colt. If I had the funds to go from the 650 to the 1050 I'd jump at the chance.

What brand are you talking about?

I frigging hate Hornady dies. The size die was OK for my limited use, but the seat/crimp die sucks, even when adjusted exactly to directions. Tried the Hornady for .380 rounds, and I couldn't get a single dummy round to work correctly in my girlfriends gun. Bought the Lee Deluxe set and in 15 minutes made a bunch of dummy rounds that worked perfectly in her gun. (plunk test, magazine feed, chamber, and extract properly)

*blink* LOL I do like those grips.

FWIW the newest Ghost pouches have a narrower mounting setup and are about a half inch narrower than the previous ones. If you run the pouches bullets out, the mounting is the same width as the bullets out pouches. I have 6 of the wide style and 2 of the new style and am waiting to hear back if I can order the new style without buying the entire new pouch.

Holy crap, and I thought my bag was heavy now. Going to have to start adding a separate kit for shooting day. Gun Backup gun UpLula 6 mags phillips screwdriver (damn grip screws) Cliff bars Bottle of powerade Small rag for wiping grease if needed Hearing protection pouches for brass pick up at end of day Looks like I'll put together an extra small bag with some tools, a tackle box with parts, slide glide, first aid supplies, bug spray, and suncreen. (I like the extra batteries for time idea since we were looking for a spare timer my last match) Other things I saw people have with them... Several pairs of shoes, extra socks, raingear, an extra shirt, and a couple towels. This stuff would normally just sit in a box in my trunk anyway as it would be a go to kit for hiking or general use. of coure everyone seems to have the jogging stroller or collapsable wagon.

I have the impact pros and they do great, but if there is gunfire going off nearby, they suppress everything. No way you are going to suppress the loud gunfire and yet allow in all other ambient volume. On the plus side, the volume sensitivity is freaking amazing. Turn them all the way up and you hear every cartridge case hit the range floor, exhaust fan, crickets in the woods, etc. If any of you remember those whisper 2000 commercials from years back, I swear these could actually be the holy grail of late night television. They are bulky though and do not fold like the impact sport models do. I've never used the impact sports so I can't compare the two.

So true. I was looking two weeks back at the hornady die setup until I looked for experiences and found just how many people had to adjust things and keep replacing broken parts. Easier to just save up and buy the bullet feeder. there is a reason why you don't see them up for sale individually.

I use one shot and have never had a single round go pop instead of bang out of either my 45 or 9mm. I dump a couple hundred at a time into a plastic bag and spray around in the bag then seal the ziplock opening and tumble them around to coat. I dump them into the hopper within 5 minutes for loading. I've loaded rounds like this and shot them 2 hours later and I've shot rounds loaded like this 6 months later and haven't had an issue.

Wanted to say thanks for some numbers. I also run Blue Bullets in my 1911.

Only problem I've ever had with my casefeeder is that it will still put 380 and 32 cases down the shoot when it knows damn well I am loading 9mm.

I get a swing of about .005-.007 which is really next to nothing on a bullet with a baked on polymer coating. At first I thought something was wrong with the way I was working the press, but then I saw the shellplate flex ever so slightly depending on if the case in the size die had more or less lube. That affected the bullet seating station as it was on the opposite side of the press. So unless you have a shellplate that rotates with .000 of variation when force is applied, you will never have zero.

Wow, those are some wide grips. I also have bigger hands, though maybe not big enough for that size. Going to have to compare how large my hands are to the photo you took while holding the gun from the rear.

Just go buy 22LR in boxes of 300+ if you want soft and easy shooting. Way cheaper than you can reload anything on your own anyway.

I had already been referring to that multiple times as well as the many videos available. What the tutorials don;t show is broken stuff and the swearing. Anyway, I got everything back together and the trigger feels great in DA. However in SA it's just not right. For example if I pull the trigger and hold it back and rack the slide, the hammer resets. I slowly let the trigger forward and I can feel the click of the reset. If I pull the trigger back at this point everything works perfect. However if I go forward a couple mm from where I can feel the click to where I actually hear the click and start to pull the trigger, the hammer/trigger releases into what is best described as the DA mode and it operates the same as it would if I was pulling the trigger with hammer down. So if I let the trigger forward in SA and hear the click, and start to pull back, the hammer releases and I can then actually let the trigger forward and it acts as a decocking lever. I didn't file or sand on anything and all the stuff I did was polishing so I'm sure it's just a matter of fitting one mating surface. Just not sure which one yet.

Best to give them a call. My SP-01 manual safety had factory night sights and I bought the 050-390 Fiber Optic Front Sight as it claims that it is the same height as the factory front sight. I left the OEM rear sight on. I was told by CGW if I changed out the rear sight to go with the one they sell with the serrations that I would need a different front sight that they sell as a set. FWIW the barrel bushing was put into a used Shadow Target that I bought while the front sight and other work I'm messing with is for a regular SP-01.

Make sure you get the correct bshing as there are different sizes. Measure the barrel diameter to be sure. Also, follow the instructions to a T. I believe they tell you to use a certain size socket to knock the old bushing out. Make sure you use that size only because any other size will not work right and you'll just wind up swearing. Make sure you align the slot on top of the bushing with the roll pin slot for the front sight before you start knocking the new bushing in. I just used a hammer and a block of wood and it popped right in. On my original barrel there were some fine scratches from where the old bushing and barrel wore together so I took the barrel and polished it up so it would slide perfect in the new bushing. The black barrel coating comes off in seconds on a polishing wheel.

Yes, I got a new pin with the kit I got from CGW. I picked up the production package. Oddly enough, the pins for the hammer were cake compared to some of these other pins. I've been working on polishing the trigger bar today and have polished the hammer strut and the sides of the hammer along with the one surface of the sear and I gave the new stainless guide rod a high polish as well. I'm not touching any of the new CGW cut stuff except the sides of the hammer. I believe I managed to get the slide back together correctly. I kept thinking that the block was supposed to be level with the machined part of the slide that rides the hammer but in reality it sits about a 1/16 or 1/8" lower. My other CZ is a shadow, so I couldn't look at it for inspiration.

I bought a used Shadow Target over the winter with a claimed 20,000 rounds through the barrel, you could see the wear on the original bushing. Bought the CGW bushing, popped it in and dayum is the barrel snug in there. No slop at all. (slides freely)

With some brute force I managed to get the punch out. I taped the frame up good and took it out to my shop press. I pushed the pin back into the frame and the piece of the punch that had broken off inside popped free. (was hammering on it good but it was frozen inside) I was then able to take a smaller punch and knock the pin free. Now the damn firing pin block won't pop back into place with the new extended firing pin and reduced power springs. I swear everytime something gets figured out, I have a new problem. It will start to capture the pin but won't pop into place and actually hold the firing pin.

On my 75 SP-01 manual safety model. (non shadow) Well just as the title says, I have broken off a punch as I was knocking out the trigger pin. I got it knocked through about a quarter inch then everything just got stuck, the punch broke, and now I can't get the broken off portion of the punch to pull back out. At this point it feels like the only thing that might work is to drill out the trigger pin, remove the trigger bar and spring assembly, then attempt to knock the broken off punch back out with a separate punch. Anyone know of a different way?