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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About DIYguy

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 03/03/1955

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  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • Interests
    Engineering and building stuff. USPSA, reloading
  • Real Name
    John Geisler

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  1. Another question before I actually order my die and bushing. Will the standard 6.5 Creedmoor die #36446 work with the .057 pins. Not sure if the spindle rod is different to clamp tightly on the small diameter pin, the pins reference PPC. Also asking about the bushing as I have a standard micrometer and digital calipers. The micrometer will not work for casing necks and calipers will read thicker than actual because of the blade. I don't have a loaded Lapua round to reference so I either do the math or cheat and ask. FYI....Forster press and I always anneal my brass befo
  2. I've been loading a lot of Hornady brass with Hornady ELD-M 140g bullets for my RPR 6.5 Creedmore and using the Hornady Match grade S dies. These all have large primer pockets and 2mm flash holes. I just received my order of couple hundred Lapua 6.5 Creeddmoor brass which has small pocket and 1.5 flash hole. Decided rather than resetting my die for each brass I'm ordering another Redding Competition S die. When I set up the Hornady I went through all the measurements and math for figure out which neck busing I needed for each brass. I'm going to go the lazy route and ask what others are using
  3. Update on status Relubbded the already lubed and sized brass and so long as I ran it wet it ran OK. If the lube started to flash and dry the cases would get tougher and had couple more stick when the lube got to dry. PIA as had the power trimmer all set and had to go through the process again each time a case stuck. Ended up hand dropping cases into the case feeder tube rather than actually run the case feeder. As wet as I was running the brass didn't want the extra mess to clean in the hopper.
  4. Did a search and any responses were about seven years old. I have the Dillon 1500 trimmer and have have trimmed a lot of 223 brass with it. Just went through setting the press up to trim 6.5. So far I've been decapping and resizine my match brass with the Redding Competition die on my Forster single stage. So I annealed a batch of Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass, did the usual Dillon spray lube where I place a handful of brass in a heavy duty ziplock bag that is already wet with lube, add couple more spritz and shake and roll thoroughly. Dump on a dry towel, lightly spread out and let th
  5. Sort brass for calibur first as 9mm and 40 love to "sex" while tumbling. Sorting bins and a 5g bucket do the trick. I've wet tumbled with the Frankford tumbler for years using the pins but got tired of busting recapping pins, finding pins lodged in by 6.5 cases and having to inspect every case for the prodigal pin. With 9mm I found tha frequently a pin would lodge in the flash hole and my decapping pin would deflect and multiple time if I didn't stop in time, the end of the decapping spindle would bend. Stopped using pins now just use Dawn and one cap full of Frankford Brass Cleane
  6. H335 @ 26.2gn Federal 223 case with Federal primer PMC 223 case with Winchester primer Hornady FMJ 55gn 2,930 fps multi string average @ 60° 16" 1:9 barrel CBTO 1.238 Dillon XL650 press
  7. I didn't think something as simple as buying a bore guide for my RPR would end up being as tough as it's turning out. I have the JP Enterprise bore guides for the ARs in 223 and 30 and love them, very well thought out and great quality. Bought the Sinclair Bore Guide that was listed as specifically for the RPR 6.5 Creedmoore and was surprised when I went to use the thing. Guide is about 14" long, and extends 4-13/16" past the end of the rifle. Solvent port is on the very end of the guide. I measured from the end of the guide to the end of my 24" barrel and the shortest cleaning rod would need
  8. After a lot of weighing the pros and cons for the 338 LM ended up going with the 308 Win since I already have 6.5CM. Rifle ordered, now comes the long wait for the build. Checked the specs for the Omega 300, rated up to 300 WM but doesn't say anything about a 338 so thinking not. Cost of ammo even for reloads, have five 7.62 Pmags in the bag already (may or may not use those) 80 minute drive to the long range compared to 10 minute drive to my local 200m range. Added another press to line on the bench, a Forster CoAx, Redding Competition S die set with bushing. Lapua brass, Hor
  9. My current club only goes to 200m but my membership application is pending at another club that goes to 1,000y. Will know for sure in February. I also have an Omega 300 can that would fit a 308 but not the 338 but not a deal breaker. 338 @ 1,000 would be interesting. Have a new Vortex Golden Eagle, rings and level on the way in anticipation of playing long but that's a different topic.
  10. I have an opportunity to buy an Elite Precision rifle with the ACC chassis by MBT at a very good price in any caliber I want directly from the manufacturer. I already have an RPR in 6.5 that I load so I'm debating between 308 and Lapua 338. We all know 308 is cheap and the 338 is expensive to shoot but since I'm reloading shouldn't be as bad. Once the brass is out of the way at about $2 each, each round should be in the $1.50 +/- range. Anyone else loading Lapua 338 have any info to share?
  11. As I posted earlier, I don't think melting plastic has anything to do with the Hornaday hoppers falling off and more about how they are mounted. Friction fit with no mechanical fastener. Regarding the Dram Worx hoppers, I've been using mine for a few load sessions and like it. For the Thanksgiving relative gathering yesterday I was able to run away and hide in my shop and get some reloads done. While the Brother-in-Law and his wife were in the kitchen I managed to crank out 300+ 223 loads with the new hopper. Pulled charged cases of the line multiple times during the process and we
  12. One of the other upgrades that was part of the "Grand Slam" was the primmer stop switch. This was the other upgrade as part of the package that I really wanted. In the photo I'm set up for case prep and have the Dillon RT 1500 case trimmer setup so my skylight won't fit. The primmer stop replace the normal primmer block and slides to the left and locks in place to deactivate the primmer advancement arm. Very cool, works great.
  13. Part of the "Grand Slam" upgrade kit from Snowshooze on eBay is the casing rod with a roller bearing and the part I REALLY like, the casing feed shutoff. The top portion of the casing block slides back and locks in place to stop feeding casings. When I'm doing change over or setup I LOVE this option. I use to have to manually remove each case that dropped when checking powder weights for ladder loads. Very worthwhile upgrade.
  14. One of the early upgrades I install and VERY glad I did was the replacement for the live primmer ski jump. For those not familiar, here's what the live primmer catcher looks like.
  15. Yondering: Looks like you have the 550, I have the 650. I purchased my bushing from Snowshooze on eBay as part of the shell plate set which includes a new spring, low mass detente ball and the lubricated bronze bushing. As mentioned earlier n the post I took the low mas ball and spring out and put the original back in. I didn't thing I was getting as positive of an index stop with the low mass. Picture of the bushing on the plate below.
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