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DIYguy

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About DIYguy

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 03/03/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • Interests
    Engineering and building stuff. USPSA, reloading
  • Real Name
    John Geisler

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  1. Update on status Relubbded the already lubed and sized brass and so long as I ran it wet it ran OK. If the lube started to flash and dry the cases would get tougher and had couple more stick when the lube got to dry. PIA as had the power trimmer all set and had to go through the process again each time a case stuck. Ended up hand dropping cases into the case feeder tube rather than actually run the case feeder. As wet as I was running the brass didn't want the extra mess to clean in the hopper.
  2. Did a search and any responses were about seven years old. I have the Dillon 1500 trimmer and have have trimmed a lot of 223 brass with it. Just went through setting the press up to trim 6.5. So far I've been decapping and resizine my match brass with the Redding Competition die on my Forster single stage. So I annealed a batch of Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass, did the usual Dillon spray lube where I place a handful of brass in a heavy duty ziplock bag that is already wet with lube, add couple more spritz and shake and roll thoroughly. Dump on a dry towel, lightly spread out and let the alcohol flash of a couple of minutes. Run all the brass through the Redding on the Forster. Now we get to the Dillon part. Started off using the brass as it came off the resizing die and ran a press cycle to run the brass into the trim die. Brass went in really hard which was the first hint. Tried to lower the ram and the head flanges broke off the case it was so badly jammed. Tool head and die go over the the big a$$ vice to use like an anvil and punch the brass out. OK, I tried to punch it out, I ended using a torch and a punch to get it out. Relubed another brass, tried again, same thing really hard to go in, had a few thousands of end of case extending from the die, tried to remove, broke head flanges and chipped my shell plate. Repeat extraction with torch and I mean I'm pounding on that thing. Check my lube, try again and case was getting jammed half way going into the die. WTH??? Cases have already been sized and drop into the Wilson gage and plunk. Will not go into the Dillon trim gage. After the first stuck case I cleaned the die again using Lucas Contact Cleaner, case stuck. Lubed die with silicone along with case lube using Dillon lube. Case stuck. After three stuck cases I'm trying anymore. Thought I would shout out here before I contact Dillon.
  3. Sort brass for calibur first as 9mm and 40 love to "sex" while tumbling. Sorting bins and a 5g bucket do the trick. I've wet tumbled with the Frankford tumbler for years using the pins but got tired of busting recapping pins, finding pins lodged in by 6.5 cases and having to inspect every case for the prodigal pin. With 9mm I found tha frequently a pin would lodge in the flash hole and my decapping pin would deflect and multiple time if I didn't stop in time, the end of the decapping spindle would bend. Stopped using pins now just use Dawn and one cap full of Frankford Brass Cleaner (or Lemi Shine) For pistol brass after rinsing I tumble again for about ten to fifteen minutes using Armor-All Wash n Wax to coat the brass to help from tarnishing. Very hot, soft water for tumbling. Still use the Frankford media separater before drying to get as much water out of the cases as possible. For years I've used a food dehydrator which is the same manufacturer as the Hornady, just less expensive. Does a great job but I found it baked water spot on my brass. Now I use the towel method. Roll around, pat, small fan to blow across cases over night. Looking at building my own tumbler with a blower to tumble the brass while drying. Lots of methods, your mileage may vary.
  4. H335 @ 26.2gn Federal 223 case with Federal primer PMC 223 case with Winchester primer Hornady FMJ 55gn 2,930 fps multi string average @ 60° 16" 1:9 barrel CBTO 1.238 Dillon XL650 press
  5. I didn't think something as simple as buying a bore guide for my RPR would end up being as tough as it's turning out. I have the JP Enterprise bore guides for the ARs in 223 and 30 and love them, very well thought out and great quality. Bought the Sinclair Bore Guide that was listed as specifically for the RPR 6.5 Creedmoore and was surprised when I went to use the thing. Guide is about 14" long, and extends 4-13/16" past the end of the rifle. Solvent port is on the very end of the guide. I measured from the end of the guide to the end of my 24" barrel and the shortest cleaning rod would need to be 44" long. Don't feel like spending another $40 for the longer rod just to use the Sinclair guide. If this guide was specifically for the RPR they should know how long the bolt is and where the ejection port is located similar to the JP guides. Tried looking for other options for guides and not discovering a decent model out there. I sent the Sinclair back and now wish I would have kept it. Chop 4-1'2" of the end and some time with the drill press to mill a new solvent port would do the trick since can't find anyone else that has figured this out. Anyone else successful?
  6. After a lot of weighing the pros and cons for the 338 LM ended up going with the 308 Win since I already have 6.5CM. Rifle ordered, now comes the long wait for the build. Checked the specs for the Omega 300, rated up to 300 WM but doesn't say anything about a 338 so thinking not. Cost of ammo even for reloads, have five 7.62 Pmags in the bag already (may or may not use those) 80 minute drive to the long range compared to 10 minute drive to my local 200m range. Added another press to line on the bench, a Forster CoAx, Redding Competition S die set with bushing. Lapua brass, Hornady ELD Match 208gr bullets (G7 BC of 348) and RL-17 powder to start with. Also ordered an annealing machine but not sure how longs that's going to take, I think they build them per order.
  7. My current club only goes to 200m but my membership application is pending at another club that goes to 1,000y. Will know for sure in February. I also have an Omega 300 can that would fit a 308 but not the 338 but not a deal breaker. 338 @ 1,000 would be interesting. Have a new Vortex Golden Eagle, rings and level on the way in anticipation of playing long but that's a different topic.
  8. I have an opportunity to buy an Elite Precision rifle with the ACC chassis by MBT at a very good price in any caliber I want directly from the manufacturer. I already have an RPR in 6.5 that I load so I'm debating between 308 and Lapua 338. We all know 308 is cheap and the 338 is expensive to shoot but since I'm reloading shouldn't be as bad. Once the brass is out of the way at about $2 each, each round should be in the $1.50 +/- range. Anyone else loading Lapua 338 have any info to share?
  9. As I posted earlier, I don't think melting plastic has anything to do with the Hornaday hoppers falling off and more about how they are mounted. Friction fit with no mechanical fastener. Regarding the Dram Worx hoppers, I've been using mine for a few load sessions and like it. For the Thanksgiving relative gathering yesterday I was able to run away and hide in my shop and get some reloads done. While the Brother-in-Law and his wife were in the kitchen I managed to crank out 300+ 223 loads with the new hopper. Pulled charged cases of the line multiple times during the process and weighed the charge and they all came out at the weight they were supposed to. Impressed! Just ordered another one, going to try the one with the powder alarm.
  10. One of the other upgrades that was part of the "Grand Slam" was the primmer stop switch. This was the other upgrade as part of the package that I really wanted. In the photo I'm set up for case prep and have the Dillon RT 1500 case trimmer setup so my skylight won't fit. The primmer stop replace the normal primmer block and slides to the left and locks in place to deactivate the primmer advancement arm. Very cool, works great.
  11. Part of the "Grand Slam" upgrade kit from Snowshooze on eBay is the casing rod with a roller bearing and the part I REALLY like, the casing feed shutoff. The top portion of the casing block slides back and locks in place to stop feeding casings. When I'm doing change over or setup I LOVE this option. I use to have to manually remove each case that dropped when checking powder weights for ladder loads. Very worthwhile upgrade.
  12. One of the early upgrades I install and VERY glad I did was the replacement for the live primmer ski jump. For those not familiar, here's what the live primmer catcher looks like.
  13. Yondering: Looks like you have the 550, I have the 650. I purchased my bushing from Snowshooze on eBay as part of the shell plate set which includes a new spring, low mass detente ball and the lubricated bronze bushing. As mentioned earlier n the post I took the low mas ball and spring out and put the original back in. I didn't thing I was getting as positive of an index stop with the low mass. Picture of the bushing on the plate below.
  14. Yondering: How does the diameter of the bronze washer match up to the diameter of the shell plate bolt? Picked up a similar bronze washer through Snowshooze with some of his other stuff and washer is a perfect match to the bolt head. Doubt he's making his own so he could possibly be getting them from the same place. Ming: Thanks for the links, this is the kind of info I was hoping we could share!
  15. Some of us are familiar with several of the upgrades / options mentioned, others are not. For those that can, photos of some of the modifications would be helpful. One example, the live primer accessories is a very small plastic bottle that screws under the press and catches the primers rather than have them decorate the floor. I'll try and get some photos of my add-ons but might take couple days considering my schedule. m700: I'm familiar with the modification you mentioned, others might not have any idea. Pictures would help.
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