12glocks

There is some variation when running the press but I suspect some of this is new operator technique running the press. I have had good luck with TAC, CFE223, and 8208. The NM crowd seems to really like Varget and RL 15 as well. I will try and attach a youtube video that I picked up a couple of tricks from. Notice how smooth he runs the press when loading. Also, just my opinion, but mean radius is probably a poor and expensive choice when searching for accuracy nodes (precision). Both of those pictures you posted are pretty underwhelming accuracy wise and I would seek something like the photo I attached. Once I have found the accuracy node I can shoot a 10 shot group and see what that looks like (real close to 1 moa). Actual radii are probably a better indices of precision. I don't wan't to go out in the weeds on this tangent though, and like I said, it's just my opinion. I would also encourage the use of a chronograph. Low standard deviation and low extreme spread are good indicators of consistency and uniformity of combustion. If you have another optic from a hunting rifle to evaluate the precision of your loads that would help too. I shoot a lot of sub moa groups with the 6x optic on my 3 gun rifle but I now use and old Nikon Monarch 14x scope for testing, MUCH easier. Its pretty hard to shoot good groups at 100 with a 3x optic (for me).

I thought the Fiocchi primers were hard like CCI.

I have a ProChrono and like it OK. I have a Magneto Speed I like better because it is easier top setup at the gun club I shoot at. If price is no object you could consider a Lab Radar. There is some innaccuracy in chronographs and here is a review Brian Litz did in case your obsessive like me: http://www.appliedballisticsllc.com/Articles/ChronographChapter.pdf

I think the only thing you NEED is dies and conversion kits and quick change kits. If it were me I would get one of these to not speed large to small primer change over: http://www.dillonprecision.com/xl-650-small-priming-system_8_116_23808.html Its two bolts to change from large to small now. I assume you got the correct case feeder plates. I broke/screwed up a couple of things when I first got my 650. If you are a competition shooter and load at the last minute, I would have a spare parts kit on hand. The machine will run better with a Dillon resizing die in station one in my experience but it will run with others.

You want the Dillon trimmer so do you want the RCBS trimmer? Maybe you can get the price down that way...

I have not tried the 62 grain bullets. The match type HPBT bullets make the most sense because they retain energy better (flashing targets, spin spinners), have more wind resistance, and are more accurate. Only one zero with those also. If your only doing bay style shooting just get 55's.

https://www.odinworks.com/223_Wylde_Barrel_18_3_Gun_Rifle_p/b-223-18-3g-r.htm has a sub moa guarantee . Spend the $54 to upgrade to an adjustable gas block. Some of the other brands already mentioned maybe very heavy depending on your intended application. Depends if your after a service rifle barrel or a run and gun 3 gun style barrel or a standard length more precise barrel. I hear from people I trust the Criterion barrels are good to go also.

Don't shoot indoors all the time. Tumble outside, wash your hand after reloading, cast bullets outside. Get your lead level check annually. Mine is around 13-16. No reason to freak out.

I have purchased 2 barrels from Odin Works now and they are awesome barrels. They have had great customer service for me as well. Their adjustable gas blocks are awesome too!

Another happy Galco Ankle Glove user here. I wear it to church or anywhere else I want to. You have to make sure that your pants are wide enough at the bottom to accommodate it though. I carry a G26 in mine. My wife likes it as well ands its always with us when we travel. Super easy to get at when driving or in traffic and it's easy to take on and off in a gas station etc when you stop.

I had run a 550 without a strong mount previously. When I got a 650, my bench is very thick and with the pres mounted at the edge I was only able to get partial range of motion with the handle, so I was forced to go strong mount. The strong mount is very nice BUT I really love the bullet tray. The ergonomics of setting bullets is awesome with the bullet tray. You basically don't take your right hand off the handle and set bullets with your left. I got another 550 recently and I have a strong mount and bullet tray and empty case bin etc. It's just the way to go. If you don't try it, you might not miss it but I highly recommend it.

Of the guns you have listed the Stoeger would be the best choice and I would get the M3K variant. 26" guns do pattern a little better supposedly if you don't buy the M3K. I have been shooting 3 gun for 3 years now. I see a lot of the JM 930's have problems. I don't see any 1187's but some Versa Max's. The M2 is the best choice if you can swing it.

Another option is the Lee Factory Crimp die which uses a circumferential squeezing force on the bullet for crimp. I would probably not use that with a plated bullet. Just putting this out there for information purposes.

I have never been able to find +P+ load data though there is some +P. Power Pistol will give good performance but has a big flash. It's new cousin BE 86 is flash suppressed and should provide good performance. I have not tried it though a fellow 3 gunner I shot with is very impressed with it. I second the Gold Dots. I would easily feel comfortable shooting max loads in a factory glock barrel. Check out load data for 9mm major on this forum. The OP lives in the Southeastern US of A. I wouldn't sweat the hand loads too much down here. All my carry guns have some type of +P+ 9mm LEO ammo in them. I will be switching over to all Underwood ammo in the future. I bought some 10mm ammo for my trips into grizzly country and I am impressed with it.

Anything I break and don't have I buy an extra when they send me the part. I have only broken a couple of parts and those were caused by operator error, learning the machine...

I have Dillon, Lee, and RCBS small base 223 dies and I listed them in the order of my preference. The RCBS decapping pin is easiest to break. The Dillon expander ball is carbide and the die is the most robust design. The Lee die sizes to minimum specs and drops in the case gauge nicely. The die I actually resize with is the Dillon trim die which resizes also, on my case prep tool head. I then clean the flash holes and run the expander ball through the neck with the Dillon die 2 full turns out with no lube thanks to the carbide expander ball. I just got some 8208 XBR to try and there are some smart people using it. It is supposed to meter well. A lot of folks are running CFE 223 up here to good effect, at least I get sub moa easy. Not a lot of temp swings in the southeastern US of A.

I have purchased two barrels from Odin Works now and they have both been fantastic sub moa barrels with sub moa guarantees. There $290 and you can upgrade to an adjustable gas block for about $54 more. 2.16 pounds. As far as the best, thats going to cost a lot more...

Sorry to go off topic. This issue is very hard to find information on. Do you have a video, picture, or parts list for this? Got to Midway and look for the rcbs powder measure and the case activated linkage. Those two items are all you need. I put a linkage on each loading head I have and move the powder measure between heads. I have 2 powder measures, one for small throws for pistol and one for rifle. They have micrometer adjustments so it's easy to set up.jj Thanks for giving me direction on this!!

Sorry to go off topic. This issue is very hard to find information on. Do you have a video, picture, or parts list for this?

I am curious if the Atlas is lighter than the Seekins?

And a longer gas system, full mass bolt. adjustable gas block, heavier buffer and buffer spring. As to the other points I was speaking in general terms. I personally don't go to the ragged edge. I do think, in general terms, MIL brass has tighter pockets. One of these days I am going to do a mag dump and then check accuracy. Perhaps a properly stress relieved barrel would have minimal degradation in accuracy? I would be interested to hear your experience as to barrel heating with propellant speed vs rounds fired? Thats not a snarky comment either. I honestly don't know. I like slower powders in rifle and pistol for some reason.

I wish I would have purchased a 1200 instead of a 1500. The 1500 is a lot larger and makes fitting other dies on the prep tool head much harder. The motor is quiet. I would like to find a quiet shot vac.

There are a number of considerations I make/made when deciding how "hot" to have a match load. In an ideal world one would probably want something that shoots flat like a laser. That is probably one of the considerations of the AMU using MK262 ammo in competition. So the upside is it is flatter shooting. The downside is there is a theoretical degradation in accuracy as the barrel gets hotter, hot loads will make a barrel hotter quicker obviously. Also I have pooped a couple primers in AR's with warmer loads and I believe it to be a bigger risk with hotter loads. I personally have the philosophy that I want to do everything I can to keep the bolt in battery a little longer so the pressure will start to abate before the bolt unlocks. Military 5.56 in known for pooping primers even with crimped pockets. I also use only once fired military brass that I have swaged the pockets on as you are. There tighter than domestic commercial brass. I have pierced a couple of primers as well, WSR's specifically, getting into warm load territory. I switched to CCI 400's for the harder cup (to reduce the risk of slam fires too) Another consideration is bullet drop and reticle choices. It helps to have multiple match loads when evaluating reticles. FWIW the only thing good about 55 gr projectiles is price. Long range shooters use heavy bullets for good reasons BUT they are significantly more accurate in general. I am not sure of the distances you routinely shoot at. By your post I judge you to be an experienced shooter/reloader so I am guessing you are shooting primarily short range. Heavy bullets are advantageous at 400 yards. Accuracy is my first priority in match ammo. I do like the velocity but it can take a while to get those primers out of the fire control group. My present match load is .8 grains below max for 223 pressure using a Hornady 75. My 2 cents.

In the small 9mm case, a small decrease in COAL can dramatically increase pressures. There is an older article in Handloader about the issue. Increasing COAL not much difference.

I load several thousand 223/5.56 and 9mm every year for 3 gun on a 650. Switch over is easy. Primer size is the same, so you do a tool head, shell plate, locater buttons, CF arm and body bushings. The nice thing is the case insert slide cam is the same for 223 and pistol. I forgot you need a small rilfe case feed plate. I too have two tool heads for 223/5.56; a processing tool head and a loading one. Dillon makes a tool head just for the trimmer and it is much easier to use than a standard toolhead. Depending on how much 223 you shoot per year, it could quickly pay for itself since you have access to FREE BRASS. If you buy in bulk like I am sure you already do for 40, you should be able to load 55 grain stuff for about $170-180 per K assuming 9 cents per bullet. I use more expensive match bullets but they shot half moa and are better at the long range game for less than $300 per k. If you have unlimited access to brass, why not sell 2 buckets worth to fund the purchase.