12glocks

I don't know I just averaged it when it went across the crony. The actual average was 870.1 FPS. The min/max charge in my Hornady 6 for Power Pistol is 3.5/5.1 for a 147.

Glock 34, Power Pistol 3.3 gr, COL 1.140, velocity 875 FPS, PF 125. To address your other question about COL, there is a lot of variability in the COL for 9mm bullets in the manuals. If I were going to pick a "standard" I observe on here I would say 1.130. I prefer a little longer with 147's. If it is a bullet in the manual like the Hornady 147 FMJ (which is a long bullet) I load it to 1.160 even though the manual says 1.165. I know these long rounds will not chamber in some guns. When I shortened my COL I chronographed my loads to make sure there was no surprises. Everything I have read about reloading the 9mm has cautioned about potential big pressure increases when shortening the COL because of the small case capacity. I choose not to use propellants like Bullseye because it is possible to double charge the case, I have used 231 and it works well, Unique is OK but is seem like it did not meter so great through my Redding (seemed like Dillon was OK) meter, I really want to try the CFE pistol, when loading hot 40's with fast propellants I glocked a lot of cases. I did not do that so much when I slowed the propellant burn speed down.

I did a search and found little. I am running a 147 at 875 FPS for a 125 PF. I was thinking bumping back up to 130 something. Has anyone pushed the PF to low to knock over steel? Thanks in advance!

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/gas-system-parts/gas-blocks/ar-15-m16-adjustable-gas-block-prod71253.aspx I ave one of these and have had good luck with it so far. I like the fact that it is toolless though admittedly I always have tools at a match.

Another vote for Dawson's. I run the adjustable rear and a narrow front.

We shoot copper jacketed rifle and pistol bullets at the spinners. It is just the steel or bimetallic stuff that hurts the targets I thought. I routinely use Prairie Storm on spinners FWIW.

After pooping a primer and having a case head separation, I only use brass with a crimped primer in it AND I inspect each one of those carefully. I will save the other brass for a bolt gun that I could buy one day.

I have the RT 1500 and I cannot fit it 2 additional dies on a 650 toolhead. I tried different brands of dies to make this work unsuccessfully, so I have a second toolhead for cleaning up the necks. I believe I have seen guys set up the RT 1200 trimmers with 2 addition dies on a 650 toolhead but I would think the 550 toolhead would be too small. Just for the sake of discussion, I think the 650 with a case feeder is a processing beast, one of its true strengths. You have to handle the brass so much more on the 550.

Lee Dies should work fine but I have always substituted a small base die for the Lee Sizer. Lee dies look like crap compared to others but have a stronger decaper design. I dont like the lock rings or the seating stems but they work. The FCD has worked well for me in the past though I am using a taper crimp die now. I have never seen any compelling evidence Lee dies are less accurate, have more runout etc. I will have to try and resize some brass with a Lee 223 die. I bet it would drop fine in a case gauge. The RCBS has a flimsy decapping pin setup ESPECIALLY for military brass with crimped primer pockets. I use a Lee universal decapper for this (stronger design). Having said that for low volume I would go RCBS or Redding small base die setup. High volume go Dillon. Dillon = small base. No experience with Hornady or Lyman dies.

I think the statement the RT1500 should ONLY be used for forming 300 blackout is incorrect. It is the only Dillon trimmer that should be used for 300 blackout (too much work for the RT1200) and it requires the special tool head on a 650 only (off the top of my head). I use a RT1500 on a standard 650 tool head to bulk process 223/5.56 brass. It's a bit of a PITA to setup but it works awesome! I kind of wish I would have purchased the RT 1200 as I think I could fit an additional die on my toolhead and I don't load for a blackout. FWIW I looked at shop vac flow rates and all that thinking I may need to upgrade to a more powerful unit. I have one of the smallest shop vacs and it pulls all the chips from my trimmer fine. Hope this part of it helps.

While I agree with the rest of your post, I believe your wrong about the "chamber checkers" unless you do not mean case gauges by that. If you follow the ling below you will see that: Dillon handgun case gages allow you to check your handgun ammunition to ensure it will fit a minimum sized chamber. http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25548/catid/3/Dillon_Handgun_Case_Gages

I have probably 2 or 3 out of 200 that do not case gauge when loading 9mm on my 650 which is a new press for me. They will drop in a Glock barrel. I had a couple of malfunctions so I started case gauging 100% of the rounds. I suspect the problem could be that the Dillon dies are more beveled at the bottom of the die and do not quite size down as far as, say, a Lee sizing die. If you did not give another 1/8th of a turn after bottoming the sizing die, the tool head floats a little and you may be loosing a little on the bottom of the case as well. What I do is run the out of spec rounds through a Lee FCD on a single stage press and they will drop in the gauge after that. I have no crimp set just take advantage of the post sizer feature. I may try and swap a Lee sizer die and see what happens.

I was really unable to get any dies in statio 5 with a RT1500 on there. I almost wish I got the RT 1200 for space. I don't think that die is a good choice. It i probably going to come out of the dillon trim die pretty small anyhow. That main this is to clean the neck up with an expander ball (I thought). Perhaps you can see the die not to squeeze it? I have had good luck with Lee dies and like some of the designs. The Collet sizing dies do not fit into that category for me. Be careful if you cam over on one of those I have not really used mine since the last time I broke it.

My 650 that is a month old has the lighter color on the left.

I squibed a couple of 9mm rounds (I use Power Pistol) and sold my 550's. That was a mistake that I wish I did not make. I have talked to smart guys who are experienced shooters that have squibed on the 500. I suspect it's about running fast making good production. I am running a 650 now and do like it a lot better but it is expensive. I think the important thing is to run the press more slowly than wide open. I do a lot more case inspection than I did before as well and that has saved me headaches priming. Is the fail safe rod adjusted correctly? Also I think a light may help as well. http://inlinefabrication.com/products/skylighttm-led-lighting-kit-for-the-dillon-550 I do have a powder check installed and it's OK. But it has become dislodged so that it is not probing the cases and not alarming either. I would think you could shake 38 cases. I pulled a couple hundred 9mm rounds after my squib because I could not hear propellant when I shook the case.

I think the LC brass and other brass with crimped primer pockets is going to be part of the equation for success. I will look into those primers, though I am predisposed to stick with US or quality European manufacturing. Frankly the brand of primer is not something I considered.

I believe I have seen Tula primers at the local gun shows. I am not sure if they are the KVB-5.56 primers though. Sounds like the equivalent to the CCI 41's which I have. I could order them. I have never been a fan of the combloc quality so I have traditionally avoided things like Tula brand names. I have heard Wolf primers work fine. Those are sourced from Russia I think. Why is it you think they will stay in the pocket more over, say, domestic primers?

This is very helpful thank you!! I thought I would avoid the Federal cases in the future and maybe the Winchester as well. They both feel quite loose to me. For now I will keep that brass in case I ever get another 223 bolt gun. It is interesting what you say about the 77 grainers. I bet the pressure curve launching those has a pressure spike at some point to get that heavier bullet moving. As to your point about some primers being bigger in diameter, which ones would you suggest? I assume your meaning is that the bigger primers, dimensionally, are more likely to stay in the pocket. I have been running CCI 400 primers wanting the harder cup because of the free floating firing pin. I did wonder if a softer cup (federal or winchester) would flow more and sort of lock itself in the pocket more. I am ALWAYS cognisant of the possibility of a slam fire so lets just say I am diligent where things get pointed, so I am will to try softer primers if that would help. Thanks again!

In the past I have pierced a couple of WSR primers with near max loads 223 loads. I avoid the WSR primer in warm loads now. Fast forward to starting 3 gun and testing a 69's and 77's for better long range accuracy (and they are!!). I was shooting sub moa groups, then the groups spread out, then the gun failed to extract a couple of times. I noticed one of the ejected cases was missing a primer. On inspection of the rifle, the primer was crumpled up where the rotary bolt locks up. The primer prevented the extractor from grabbing the rim of the case. I had primed those test loads on a single stage and they seated super easy. It was a Federal case fired probably twice the lost the primer. I noticed a lot of domestic non Mil brass has looser primer pockets than a crimped military case after it has been swaged. Fearing a repeat of the same, I am considering favoring lighter loads for competition. My gun cycles them nicely, even with the gas block turned down. The recoil IS milder. I am concerned about knocking over targets at long range (like a Larue) though the lighter 69 grain loads carry more energy than a 55 (by my research). Were talking a 69 at about 2700 fps. The other thing I can do is avoid non crimped brass for use during the actual competition. I am thinking about not using Federal brass for anything but practice. This is new to me so any suggestions about keeping the primers in the pockets would be appreciated. Is there a brand of primer that is better or would a sealant help etc? Thanks in advance!

I have a lot of Gen 2 and 3's. When I recently purchased a G34 to dedicate to 3 gun, I went with another Gen 3. I think the dimple on the Gen 4 trigger bar is a solution to a problem that does not exist and is correctable. There is more aftermarket support for the Gen 3's I understand as well. I like the grip texture on the Gen 4. I think they got the RSA issue corrected on the 9's now. The Gen 3 gun are more than proven. Not sure about the Gen 4's YET, maybe.

http://mtrcustomleather.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=190#.U6LZOpRdWUE The place where I get my bull hide belts. Add to cart and have your belt a week later.

The Gen 1 Glock mags did not drop free and they were designed that way and they are called non full metal lined (NFML). Those mags have a U shape at the top of the mag well that looks like this: http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2012/10/11/605277_01_glock_17_generation_1_magazine_640.jpg The subsequent generations of full metal lined mags (FML) should drop free. I have, however, dropped FML mags on the floor in shooting competitions so many times they would longer drop free. They can become dimensionally aberrant over time from use. Edit: spelling

I am a new 3 gunner but the Salomon Speedcross seem to be the alpha shoe. I just ordered a set this morning. http://www.salomon.com/us/product/speedcross-3-cs.html There are other threads on the issue. Some guys like boots.

I would not try to duplicate the COAL of a factory round, some of them are pretty short. I would follow a load manual recipe and substitute the berry 147 for say a Hornady 147 and use THAT COAL. In the case of the Hornady projectile I am loading, the COAL is very close to max. Max COAL may cause issues getting in and out of a magazine. Some of the factory offerings are pretty short and pressures can increase pretty quickly in a case as small as the 9mm. I hope you got the Lee 4 die set. I find these far superior to the 3 die set. The number 4 die in the 4 die size has a carbide sizer ring which should size the case again and eliminate most feeding issues. Also I have had issues with the Berries bullets, tumbling at higher velocities (in 40). I know longer use them. I may give the coated bullets a try. But real jacketed bullets are my preference.

There is a link on the Colt Competition Rifles web page "Colt in the Media" and your article (which I liked) is not there (in case you want it there). Thanks for the article!