Endoz

I stand when reloading, use force to seat primers, the two step stroke Benos talks about. I'm going to bet it has to do with brass I'm picking up from the range or could it be the fact i'm using a striker fired gun (G34) and the firing pin spring doesn't have enough force to light slightly high (as to be unnoticeable) primers? . I just picked up a SA Range officer in 9mm so i'll try same ammo and see what happens.

I've been reloading on my Dillon XL650 (which i love btw) for almost a year now, many thousands of rounds but am still having issues getting primers to seat on some rounds. About 4 out of 400 on last batch were obviously not in, but during testing, one in 20 or so fails to go bang. Not good for using during a match. I've worked with Dillon over the phone to try and resolve this issue, making sure plate is tight enough but not too tight, etc. Primer pockets ARE NOT reamed, to me thats more time than I want to spend, does anyone else have issues with 650 not seating primers? My machine is mounted on a strongmount, bolted to a 2" thick butcher block table that is stiff as hell. Im applying adequate force to the lever to drive them home in my mind, can't imagine using more force and having the machine hold up. Ive switched to now practicing with reloads and buying ammo to shoot matches as I lose too much time cycling out bad rounds, but that goes against the whole point of reloading to me. What am i missing? thanks Endoz

I may drop down to 3.6 - 3.7gr titegroup and recheck PF so the rounds don't have as much recoil. I liked them better at 1.150 OAL. But i'm nitpicking.

Well, bought a chrono and these are the results at 33F outside temp; 124gr Rainer Plated RN 3.8 gr Titegroup OAL - 1.150" Avg FPS - 1027 for PF of 127 ( so made minor after all ) Switched to 1.135 OAL w/ same powder and bullet/ Avg FPS - 1039 for PF of 128 Then loaded samples of coated bullets @ 1.135 OAL to compare to Rainer plated. Blue Bullet 125gr RN - Avg FPS - 1070 for PF of 133 Bajou 124 gr RN - Avg FPS - 1076 for PF of 133 Ibijiheads 125gr RN - Avg FPS - 1073 for PF of 134 These coated rounds at 1.135" had more snap to them, and seemed more accurate. Going to start loading coated from here on out.

Thanks all, great info! Endoz

10-4 thanks. Chrono next.

Ok so i've been easing into the reloading thing, i'm at 4K rounds now on an XL650, really satisfying, and am interested in shooting my first USPSA match weather permitting (its sub freezing here). So far this has been my load which has cycled my G34 well, and is accurate enough. It just doesn't make minor. 124gr Rainer Plated RN ( switching to coated from now on ) 3.8 gr Titegroup OAL - 1.150" I haven't got a chronograph yet so don't know my velocity but according to the Hogdon calculator i should be at approx. 957 fps which equates to a PF of 118 for USPSA. So the question is whats the best or safest way to make power floor with room to spare in minor? By going lower OAL or more powder ( up to 4.1 max )? Yes i'm being cautious as I am new to this. Appreciate any insights, Endoz

You are right. The SA ships with a small wire clip that temporarily holds the spring in place while you install it onto the gun, then you drop the hammer and pull the pin out. The spring is never 'captured' like it is on most 1911's. This is because of a proprietary safety on the housing I just discovered that i didn't even know it had. You can turn a tiny pin( with a tiny two pronged key) that prevents spring from compressing and therefore prevents hammer from cocking. The hammer strut must be slightly shorter than most 1911's but since its my only one I have nothing to compare to. Appreciate all the help, i hope this is useful for other Springfield owners out there in the future.

Here's a pic

I didn't 'disassemble" the housing per se, when i took it off, the retainer pin fell out (which seems odd) and the spring, and the pieces at both end of it came out. Given the amnt of effort it took to get the whole assembly back together again, i can't imagine how the retainer pin "fell out". There's the pointed end cap on the bottom of the spring and the belled mouth cap at the top of the spring. I have a pin replacement set and the parts are identical to that kit. As for the leaf spring its on top of everything, the leftmost spring sitting on top of the left leg of sear and the middle leaf is on top of the disconnector.

Tore down my Springfield to clean it and when reassembling,(something i've never done before) i've found my hammer only has spring tension from the 3 o'clock position (fully cocked) to around 2 o'clock. When the trigger is pulled, it hits the firing pin then bounces back to 2 o'clock. Its almost like the hammer spur isn't long enough but i didn't change anything..so not sure how this can be the case. Again, when hammer is in 12 o'clock position there is no tension on hammer strut, you can wiggle it, it doesn't come in to tension with mainspring housing until 2 o'clock then has tension until full hammer back at 3. Mainspring seems to be working as it did before when i check it, its all the way at the top of the housing against the retainer pin. I must be missing something stupid. Any advice/insights appreciated and happy holidays. Endoz

Went to range today with no problems, measured OAL several times from rnds in magazines and all fine. Did Dot Torture drill at 7 yards and rounds were accurate. Did notice a fair amnt of powder residue on casings, using titegroup.

According to that calculator i'm at 0.376 - 0.377 or moderate to light crimp. Assuming rnds don't change OAL during firing i'm going to call that good. Thanks all Endoz Moderate Crimp__(.003) 0.376

Very helpful calculator thanks!

never thought of using math, thanks! I'll test some more to see if their changing during firing.