BeerBaron

Being 13+ years old the chances are it was made properly. For instance I bet all the small parts are numbered to ensure they match the frame. Not done anymore.

bent firing pin or broken firing pin spring is a possibility.

not sure if it'll work but here's the direct link to DAA: http://www.doublealpha.biz/nikko-stirling-diamond-t4?osCsid=9849de451a334cdeafb1812901607ece thanks for the info from Greg, my version progression info was a little different (from someone else at cmore but it was a ph call where I wrote the info down).

what RDA is saying about the ogive affecting OAL is correct but I'd amend it slightly to say the ogive MAY be contacting the seating stem. many type of bullets will contact the tip of my fairly flat lee seating stem. best bet if you are interested is pull the seating stem and see for a given bullet does it contact the ogive or the tip?

something is not right. I run the whidden clamped tool head on a 650 (using lee dies) and I might get one case in 5,000 hang up. probably not even that often (I can barely remember one happening). I can suggest tightening it up with cases in the dies. I also suggest have a good look at the case pusher and make sure it's not pulling back the case when it's retracting from the shell plate. I still use a plain Dillon head for 1 caliber and it works fine but my press is smoother with the whidden. it gives more feel too. I can actually feel a piece of brass going into the carbide sizing ring in S1. I also run the press fairly quickly (bullet feeder) so it's not like I'm babying things to get it to run. It runs very comfortably at around just over 1,000/hour pace (around 100/5min).

it's the Dillon 9mm sizing die causing this coke bottle shape. van man explained it well. it's generally not an issue in practice but I prefer the lee sizing die particularly in 9mm. you can keep all the other dies and just buy a lee 9mm sizer/decapper and it will go away.

whatever you do, do not stop. it's up to the RO to stop you. if he doesn't catch it and you stop he's likely to look at you blankly while the timer is ticking over... I have made this booboo. a stage with a dropping target covered by a no shoot. it was activated by felling a popper. when the popper falls the no shoot drops revealing the shoot target which then also dropped leaving on 1 inch of the top visible (should have been a disappearing target but people often mess up scoring those so by leaving 1 inch visible it can technically be non-dissapearing). While I was doing my last minute run through I heard the guy setting that target having some difficulty (which must have gotten in my head). I shot the popper and set up on the dropper. nothing happened. I waited a beat, then lowered the gun and turned around waiting for the RO to call REF/Reshoot. Well as I'm looking at him the f$%king thing drops.. likely it was just hung up slightly. I was so annoyed and had switched out of 'stage mode' that I didn't even fire at it thus incurring 2 misses and 1 FTE. d'oh!! moral is it's the RO's responsibility to stop you. you cannot count on him/her seeing everything. ZZT says he'd re-shoot you if you stopped yourself and explained what happened but that's not what he should do. if he doesn't call the 'creeping/false start' he cannot and should not take your word for it. next thing will be a shooter gets a crap draw or a hesitated start and decides he'll stop himself and grab a re-shoot. this is why only RO's can ORDER re-shoots.

be careful when you say that to people. someone may get injured when they fall over laughing...

Peltor tactical sport with gel cups or MSA sordins with gel cups. I actually like the peltors a little better I think but both are excellent. The HL's are cheap in price and cheap in quality. thin and poorly shaped cups. noticably less effective than the peltors or MSA's despite being rated about the same. I can't think of a single positive about the HL's impacts except the cheap price. junk in my opinion. I gave mine away. whether you get peltors or MSA's the optional gel cups are a must have. they enhance the NRR and massively enhance comfort.

I use a Sony action cam mounted on a set of peltor muffs. excellent quality, very light and you can control it from any smartphone. it also has 1 touch on+start with an audible sound. has 1 touch stop/off too also with a (different) sound so you don't mess up and miss recording runs.

I would guess it's the same as the "v1" RTS2. you can tell the different versions: V1 - single contact 'finger' under the battery and a circle with single 'finger' over the battery. V2 - rubber under the lower battery contact V3 - rubber under the lower contact and extra contact 'finger' added above the battery. V4 - looks like V1 inside but if you remove the battery dot will turn off but when you re-insert the battery dot will come on automatically and will have held the same brightness setting as when you removed the battery. V1-3 will all need to be switched on if battery is removed and replaced and they will come on at the default brightness (setting 5 I think). When you say dot is the same from memory it's 3MOA? not the same as the 6 or 8 MOA? Once again it does make me wonder who really makes the RTS2 type sights.

yep, what Dan said above.

yeah there's no real drama with running a longer pin. the only minor 'issue' is that because of the spring space taken up by the IBF the stock SV pins have the 'shoulder' on the pin further back to allow a decent FP spring length. when using another makers pin you'll have to cut probably 1-2 more coils than you do with the sv pin. not a big deal.

if none of these solutions work consider the possibility that the pin holes in the frame are out of spec. this would explain why it happened with stock parts too. if the distance between the hammer and sear pins is slightly out of spec (on the large side) then you get less sear/hammer engagement. if the trigger job was setup on a jig it may look fine but when in the frame it's a different story. this can be checked by getting a set of 'outside pins' (sorry can't remember the technical term). these pins allow you to setup the sear and hammer outside the frame but using the frame pin holes. then you can see what kind of engagement you have. one solution would be a longer sear (will need the nose custom cut) or obviously a new frame would fix it too (last resort!).

the most likely culprit is mag hitting trigger bar or disco. I've had this happen on a 2011 before (scared the beejeezuz out of me). fortunately I had POV vid both times and my finger is visibly up on the side of the frame (not on the kaboom button). check the front corner of the disco and check anything else that may be loose. it is possible that after 30k on a sear and hammer the sear engagement has been reduced/worn which could contribute.

good thing I didn't tell my wife how smart I am! though I'm sure the loose ibf wasn't helping.

some guns set for super will run SC no problem. if it doesn't run some extractor tuning will get it running. that's the only difference. the load can affect accuracy. one particular load in my Schumann barreled SV was so bad I thought the gun was broken. group was all over a IPSC target at just 20 yards! Switched back to my regular load and had a regular group size.... some guns/barrels seem pickier than others. generally though with open guns bad accuracy is: loose grip loose scope mount loose scope broken/wandering scope baffle strikes in the comp (un-aligned comp or too much build up in the chambers) too much crimp final reason is the load. gun/barrel just does not like that particular load combo.

if you have the stock plastic MSH you can do the pin job easy without a drill press. if you've swapped to a steel MSH I suggest it's better done with a drill press. you just need a short pin. bobby keigans has a vid on YouTube showing it up close. I would cut the leg off AND pin it.

The issue with trays is with v2 or v3. They both have more pressure on the battery making the tray much harder to get out and therefore more likely to break. V1 or v4 don't have that issue.

El prez is more a transition drill (and general skills drill). If you need to improve dot tracking ripping shots at speed into a single target is a way to gain some dot awareness. If that fails do the bill drill into the berm. No target. Just observe the dot.

forget dot tracking in dry fire. it's a live fire thing. bill drill is about the bet thing you can do to observe dot tracking. try it at different distances too. just don't end up dot fixated. the whole point of the red dot is that you can shoot with a target focus.

You may have some color blindness. That's a green fiber.

Yes little issues are not ideal but are solvable. To clarify one of your issues both my ck opens came with a little letter that did mention the scope mount screws were not set with loctite and that I should remove them and apply loctite. Funnily enough I went to do it and found they were loctited. The 2 scope to mount screws weren't though (I use blue on those). The letter also mentioned the aftec had only one spring installed. I wish my trigger came a little lighter too (my hardcore is 2lb6oz) but it has a heavy hammer spring and lots of leaf spring pressure both on the disco and the sear. After a few more rounds I'll adjust it to how I like it just around 2lb.

You'll certain have heightened awareness if you let a few shots rip in the tv room!! ps I assume you mean dry fire.

For all the ball ache I'd ask Dillon for a new station 1. They should just work. I use one for both 9mm and super and it's never needed that much messing with. It just works. I do keep a decent amount of grease under it. They can get dinged up and I might get a case jam maybe once in 3,000 or more. But from new it should work flawlessly.