BeerBaron

Look to places that have been through this. Australia brought in 10 round mag limits a number of years ago and Canada had had them too. Both countries have big ipsc shooting populations. From my experience open guns there are identical to open guns everywhere except for the mags. Practically no one is running a single stack in open. The 2011 has a better grip, easier reloads and if you travel interstate you can gas it up with big sticks. The single stack open will be an orphan.

Looks really nice. Shoots great too.

They should be solid. Is it poor fit between the spigot on the back of the ratchet type piece that fits into the pouch? Or do they just need a tighten? the rm pouches have a ball joint there instead of the ratchet type plastic washers. It can come loose when new but settles down after a while.

Open up the inside of the prone pad? Then you can use whatever.

Daa racers or racemasters. I have both and both are excellent. The rms have a little more adjustment and an aluminum body. The r's are cheaper. Either one will be great.

It's interesting. It has the ported (4 ports) Schumann island barrel which makes it desirable. The comp is similar to the current design but can't tell if its titanium or steel. If someone really wanted it as an open gun they'd want a frame mounted optic which would be a bit of a hassle with this gun as they've made cuts in the frame where your optic mount sits. Probably still doable though. The sv plastic grip dates it. At least 7 years old, possibly more like 10+ . if it went cheap you could get it updated with an sv stainless grip, frame mounted rts2 (or whatever optic you like) and consider a 9mm conversion if you wanted. Assuming it's in good health (which is a big assumption!) you could have a sweet gun under $3k.

The link works for me? It's on double alphas website in the scopes section. I don't know anything further than that though.

The rolls Royce of die lock nuts are the hornady 'sure-loc' lock rings. High quality steel with 2 large flats machines in them. Once you have them set properly they have a tension adjustment to lock them to the die. That way you can remove a die if needed without messing up the position of the lock ring on the die. They are $$ but are the nicest rings. Ive used them on my lee dies but eventuality found I basically never remove dies. My toolheads have the complete 5 dies on them so I just swap out heads. So for me they are kind of overkill and may be for you too. This is them. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hornady-044606-SURE-LOC-LOCK-RING-6/23234678

Great pics sarge. It's a bit hard to tell how much chamfer each one has at the mouth but the egw does look a little different at the mouth.

I could be wrong but my understanding was they meant lower sizing compared to other dies like Dillon. The regular lee sizer does go lower than Dillon as in the Dillon dies (and hornady from memory) the carbide sizing ring is slightly recessed from the die body and it has a tapered/chamfered lead in to help guide cases into the die if they come up to meet it slightly off center. The lee has the carbide sizing ring basically flush with the die body but still has a very slight chamfer at the entrance so it's possible the die that lee make for egw has that squared up which would make it size lower. If I can find my 9mm I die later I'll compare it with one of my regular lee 9mm sizers.

Take a round that won't p&s and colour it with a blue sharpie. Then drop it in and turn it a little. Remove and inspect. If its the bullet itself it touching then its likely oal or bullet profile issue. Case mouth touching - crimp issue. Middle of case - likely oversize bullet or damaged case or not resized small enough - u die can help here. If its a ring near the case head then a u die 'may' help. But some brass gets a decent ring in the base that cannot be sized out without a push through die or roll sizer. Some just need to be tossed.

The u die doesn't size any further down than the regular lee die, it sizes 'smaller'. All the lee sizing dies (either u die or regular) do size closer to the case head than Dillon dies as the sizing ring is right at the mouth of the die and doesn't have the same level of lead in or chamfer at the mouth.

I don't load any 40 atm but I use the regular lee sizing die in 9mm (which can suffer the same bulge issues as 40) and 38 super. I've not had the need for the u die. I did try it in 9mm for a while but for me it wasn't needed. I would try the regular die set first and only run the u die if you have either setback issue or lots of case gauge failures.

I actually wonder who really makes the rts2. There's a couple other brands out there with a near identical chassis with just some small feature differences (auto brightness, different dot size etc). Nikko stirling for example (and I think there's one or two others, the dig Romeo 3 is similar but the nikko is near identical) http://www.doublealpha.biz/nikko-stirling-diamond-t4

Yes I use the Delrin index ball and cut spring along with the roller bearing. I also put an index mark on the bolt head to monitor any change in bolt position. Its very smooth with no index 'snap'. This vid was a while ago but the load is either 10.4gn of 3n38 or around 11gn of n105 both of which are a pretty full case in 38 super.

Nice. I understand why ck have the proprietary catch (to match the curved shape on right of grip) but interchangeability is one of the features of having a 2011. The ck grips proprietary magwell I don't understand. Surely it would have been simple enough to make the foot of the grip standard...

How does the new mk7 press effect your plans? 10 station machine with integrated autodrive. Very impressive and very expensive at $8500.

Does the pt evo also accept generic 2011 mag catch? I love my ck grips but do wish I could change mag catches if needed (ck mag catch has a lot of extra meat on the right side).

Drill a deeper dimple in the nitrofin in line with the plunger. Even just a little deeper than normal will lock it up so tight you likely won't be able to activate it even if you want to. Don't hack off the bit the locks the slide. You may want to use it at some point or sell it.

Try some hornady one shot if your not already. It won't completely cure the powder die sticking but it does help.

+1 3n38 for me too in super/comp. I've tried n105, n350, 3n37, autocomp and cfe. My fav is still 3n38 but n105 I really liked too.

weird. I've been using my daa range cart for about 2 years. I filled the tyres when I got it (which was a pain in the ass trying to do it at a gas station). Once I got them filled they have stayed full for all that time. including weekly use and use on rocky ground, mud etc. However, I may be lucky as I know at least one guy who had issue. he replaced his with solid tyres from a hardware store.

nope. should definitely means what we think it means.

no, should still means should. not must or shall. it's a recommendation not a requirement. notice how that sentence says things like "finger MUST be outside trigger guard", "gun MUST be pointed in safe direction". then it says "external safety SHOULD be applied". In many IPSC matches I can't think of anyone I've ever seen activate an external safety other than at LAMR before they slot it into the holster... same as uspsa.