BeerBaron

If it works then that's fine. A friend of mine had not replaced his springs in 10k rounds and started having fte's. He moved back spring to front and I gave him a new spring for the back (which was noticeably longer than his old ones) and it's run fine since. So if it it works I say just leave it. Do the spring rotation thing next time.

Aftec reccomend just running the rear spring for the first few thousand rounds as 2 brand new springs can create too much tension. After that first few thou you take the (now weaker) rear spring and put it in the front hole and add a new spring to the rear. You then repeat this process every 5,000 or so (throw out front spring, move back to the front and new one in the back). They say doing 2 new springs can make it too tight.

Yes my hammer is the perfect length. It's the 'relief cut' at the back of the frame that's too deep!!

It's a bot. Note the embedded link.

I noticed this looking at a squad mates vortex red dot. Bunch of grapes. My cmore rts2 8moa is a nice round dot as is my cmore slideride in 6, 8 and 12 moa. I find the cheaper red red dots do the bunch of grapes thing. Better ones like cmore don't. I also find find using a bigger Moa dot helps. When using a 2-4 moa dot turned up bright it goes bunch of grapes. Get a nice big 8 Moa dot and even with your messed up eyes you'll get a nice round dot.

Unfortunately no. The shadow 2 frame is wider than the shadow 1. So the safety pin is different length.

Just measured a brand new one and one out of my ck. both are 0.345. It's because the corners are cut off. The balls will push it up into the dovetail. 0.375x60 is the correct cutter. I did use the 360x60 (as that was what I had) but I did have to walk it over to widen the cut.

Yes at rest against the firing pin stop the hammer should be undee tension. This can be affected by the length of the hammer strut. For the reasons drewbeck pointed out you want the hammer to be resting firmly against the firing pin stop. With ts the slide off it'll probably go limp before touching the frame but again that's a function of the length of the hammer strut and the frame.

I used the ammo up pictures the other day on soft grass surface. It worked really well. IMO it works better over a wider spectrum of range surfaces than the wire drum style ones do.

I can measure one tonight. From memory that sounds about right. Trust me the 375x60 is the correct cutter!

No buis. Not needed. If you're loosing the dot or its failing regularly those are both problems that can be addressed. Get slide milled for a decent optic (my choice would be deltapoint pro or rts2) and with a bit of dry fire you'll have your index sorted in no time.

Yeah non-chlorinated brake cleaner is fine. It works well to blast out dirt. Just be sure to re-lube well as it will displace all the lube.

I really like the fioicchi primers. Nearly as soft as federal so great in guns with light da triggers. I got very low sd using them too. Very consistent. I like that they come in small packaging too (though 150 per pack is a bit weird). I also tried the nt version and found them good too. Mine were all silver in color.

I don't see a problem. As long as they feed and eject nicely.

Thanks for filling in those blanks. Ive always been impressed by every egw part I've purchased so I'd put a lot of stock in anything they recommend too.

I've not noticed the yellow stuff (have seen it in the past in 9mm minor loads) but the 38 super major wac load I tried was spewing out black flakes of something all up my right forearm. They appear to be partially burnt bits of powder.

How do zero's compare in price? The best way to get prices down is order in bulk quantities. Most places will cut you a break at 10k+.

The thing to consider with spring tuning is the firing pin stop radius and hammer spring weight only affect the rearward movement of the slide where as the recoil spring affects how it moves rearward and how it returns forward. So I think Charlie's advice is sound. Try heavier hammer spring which will not add any dip during the slide returning forward but will help control movement rear.

Rts2 in 8moa is plenty bright enough even in direct bright sun.

Do jem make the frames in house? I understand egw make the jem grip safety for them (to their design). I would have thought the caspian 1911 race frame would be the hot ticket for single stack builds (but admittedly I'm not a single stack expert).

Just a tip - MSH stands for main spring housing which is just the physical housing that holds the spring etc. people call the spring the main spring (MS) or hammer spring.

Ive used and like the pt. they do need fitting and some polishing if you want a nice finish. The dt look nice too but I haven't bought one yet.

^^^^^ this. Tumbling is 'generally' caused by too much crimp, not enough velocity and occasionally too much velocity. BUT xtremes are notorious for tumbling and poor accuracy. Their 355 and 356 projies many times have been shown undersize as small as 354 or 3545. Before you change all the settings on your press try substituting in a different bullet. That may answer the question easily.

I have to say i Normally hate these hybrid designs but this one appeals to me. First Wilson I've seen in a long time that I'd consider owning.

Sanders has it right. Do not glue the two halves of the toothed washer together. Pop the half off the pouch then glue it back in. Fwiw my racers stay tight a looong time. My race masters on the other hand came loose a lot when new. After 4-5 re tightens they settled in and now my only issue is the first pouch (gets the most use) comes loose every now and then and the magnet mounted to it also comes loose and eventually strips the hole. I then make that pouch further back and promote the next in line to magnet duty by tapping the pouch for the magnet screw. The problem is a very strong magnet mounted with a steel screw into a very thin section of threaded aluminium. The magnet on the racers actually holds up better as it sits in a steel threaded insert that is melted into the plastic.