BeerBaron

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. The breaches are super hard.

Weird on the steel comp. it made me double check mine. I could tell from the color (one of mine is bare) that it was ti but I just double checked - non-ferrous. Even my mega daa magnet on my rig wouldn't stick to it. They do advertise it with a ti comp. if it bothers you I'd ask about it.

I have to be honest. For me the lee auto disk is no better than the Dillon. They both work the same way (sliding cavity) but the lee downside is no easy adjustment and only adjustable to the preset disk holes. Of those 2 I'd rate the Dillon measure better. The lee auto drum is miles better and costs the same (or less) than the auto disk. Its only downside is the small-ish hopper but it doesn't bother me. Being able to have a drum set for every load that you can switch in about 30 seconds is awesome. I much prefer it even to my Dillon with the uniquetek micrometer and it's way cheaper.

The lee also has a powder through expanded funnel. Fortunately if you have any lee die sets they come with the lee powder die and funnel/expander (I use lee dies in all calibers as I prefer them to Dillon). replicating my setup requires: Lee powder die with appropriate ptx insert (comes in the lee die sets or about $10 on its own) 2 x lee powder measure riser (stacked - gives more clearance around the tool head especially if using a bullet feeder) about $8 each lee auto drum powder measure (comes with 2 drums) spare lee quick change drums (4 pack about $15) Auto drum $33 - http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/lee-autodrum-powder-measure Risers (get 2, $8) http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/lee-powder-measure-riser Spare drums $15 - http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/lee-quick-change-drums Powder through expanding die $11- http://www.titanreloading.com/pistol-reloading-dies/lee-pistol-powder-thru-expanding-die/9mm-powder-thru-expanding-die about $75 fully decked out with enough drums to do 6 different powders/loads. Or $65 if you have a lee powder die kicking around. Since trying this my 2 complete Dillon measures just sit gathering dust. Its super easy to adjust. Very easy to switch out powders. Hopper has an off 'switch' then you just lift it off and dump the powder. Even removing the measure is easy with no bolts just a thumb wheel. Its also super accurate and amazingly consistent.

One tip if you don't like the Dillon powder measure (I don't). You can run thw hornady but my favorite measure now is the new lee auto drum. Just as accurate as the hornady or rcbs drum type but cheap as dirt and has quick change drums so you can set one up for every load combination you want very cheaply ($15 for 4 drums). I run one one on my Dillon.

Mine worked 100% out of the box. The caveat being I only use fed spp. It runs about 98% with fed srp with the only issue being the odd primer is too tall and drags on the lid a little. Some light upward pressure on the lid cures that. The fed spp run through it like water.

The sv grip is the way to go on the sv frame. The evo grip looks awesome (and I love the msh) but for ease of fit and to keep the gun 'original' id go sv.

No comment.

You will need the comp/barrel tap and/or die so that you can chase the threads on either the barrel or comp or both. Barrels and comps do tend to come a bit on the tight size so that you can chase the threads till you get a really tight fit. If if you are fitting comps to 2011s you really need the correct tap and die (brownells have them) and a comp align reamer too. Jared at binary engineering has a great vid on comp fitting.

I could see a $50 msrp increase but $300 (25%) seems a bit excessive without some major changes to the gun configuration. I have an older Trojan and like it a lot but I have no illusions about its 'worth'.

Maybe try the method suggested above (log on to their gun builder and submit an rma)? as pointed out it's a bit rough if they won't support their product. It would be like Ferrari refusing to service your 458 Italia. I think sv are great and hopefully you can purchase the grip and have the grip fitted and gun refinished. After all you're trying to preserve the value of one of their builds.

I have 3 daa (regular, pro and premium i think) and 3 cr speed (2 deluxe and 1 regular). I like the stiffness of the daa but the cr is better quality and a little more comfortable and easier to fit gear to. If you really want rigid I think daa is stiffer but I really like the cr speed deluxe model too. The guga ribas belt looks nice but I haven't used it personally.

I don't even know what that means. I'm all slap.

Was the cracked slide tri-topped? I can't tell for sure in the pic if it's just a flat top or tri top. Not a good run!! congrats on 1st b at nats. Winning your grade at nationals is a great achievement.

bummer. I would still pose the question to STI.

interesting test ZZT. it tends to support what I've seen. Like you I have an interest in barrel fit and every chance I get if I'm playing with a 1911/2011 I will whip the top end off and see how the barrel fits in the slide. I've yet to find one that didn't have some small front to back movement and most have quite a bit side to side too (no idea why they cut the hoods so narrow, especially factory STI). I actually think the side to side may be more of a worry as it may allow the barrel to rotate when fired but again a properly fitted lower lug (to the slide stop pin) should prevent that (though those axial forces on the pin are less than desirable). as you point out once the gun is assembled the fit of the lower lug to the pin and the fit and depth of the upper lugs is probably of most importance (as is fit at the muzzle). as long as it's locked up properly (and not putting pressure on the link) it should be very accurate. I think a gun fit more tightly at the hood (both width and length) would possibly last longer without wear and without breaking pins. Leaving side to side play no doubt allows the axial force of the round being fired to transfer to the lower lug to the slide stop in rather than being restricted by the hood width. That force could cause more wear and broken pins. Once it links down it's less of an issue providing that it sits properly in the bed and that there is not excess room either side of the ramp cut/barrel bed. the vid 3djedi posted shows more movement than I'd personally like but it's hard to judge properly just from a vid. I would say by eye my 2 CK's have less movement than that but they have 'some' front to back clearance at the hood.

yep, that will get you 90% of the way to an IMM. it won;'t have the island of course but you can still drill popple holes and cut a slot in the slide for them. then add some more slide lightening to get the slide weight down similar to that of an IMM. My IMM slide weighs in at 8.2oz.....!!

It won't hurt to ask. They seem to break from loose or missing trigger guard screw(s). I would certainly at least ask STI if they'll warranty it.

My finger has only 2 positions. On the trigger when I'm shooting and on the frame (usually touching the nub of the slide stop pin) when doing ANYTHING else. keeping it simple ensures it's never on the trigger when it's not supposed to be.

Well tandemkross shipped parts to a friend of mine in Australia recently. Around December. But it sounds like Matt will be your best choice.

Some movement back and forward is not uncommon as the barrel needs some room to move in and out of battery freely. To be honest that 'seems' like a little more than ideal. what's important is how it locks up when the gun is assembled. Presumably when it's in battery the lower lug is firmly on the pin (not the link) and it's holding the barrel deep into the lugs with the hood up against the breach. Ideally you'd think the hood would be fitted such that even resting in the slide it would be tight front to back and side to side but most 1911s and 2011s I've toyed with (and it's many as fit interests me) have some room.

If you're loading 9mm the 1050 is really the only sensible option. If you're running say 38 super then a 650 could work fine. Even then the 1050 is the better base for automation.

3n38 is pricey but it's a great powder. I mean you wouldn't put cheap gas in a Ferrari. Open guns are the Supercars of the gun sports. It's worth giving them the good fuel. 3n38 is very clean to shoot, very consistent to measure/drop, very consistent velocity, great amount of gas and it smells good too.

Ok, if you want to keep using the sb primers I would suggest a slower burning powder (lower pressure for the same velocity). I think hs6 is slower than cfe (someone here will no doubt confirm/deny). You our don't want any primer shavings in the gun if you can avoid it. 3n38 is an option. Costs more but the powder cost is still probably the cheapest part of the round. AA#7 is another popular slower powder.

Ok. That's why I ask. See the primers that have a kind of 'nipple' on them? That's bad. That can cause primer material to get shaved off in the firing pin hole and if you're really unlucky it can cause light strikes. Ive seen it happen to sb primers with a friend of mine who loads a reasonably fast powder in his open gun too (wsf). I would suggest if you want to keep using that load consider switching to fed srp or win srp or cci spp. You don't want the primer flowing back into the firing pin hole like that. It's not present on all your cases but it is on some of them.