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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About N3WWN

  • Rank
    Sees Target
  • Birthday 09/04/1975

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Greensburg, PA
  • Interests
    USPSA - Limited, Single Stack
    Small bore silhouette
    100 yard benchrest
  • Real Name
    Rich Alloway

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  1. I've played with both 3 and 4 leaf springs in my xx11 pistols and can't say that I have a definite preference for one over the other. I think I probably liked the 4 leaf springs when I had less experience adjusting the spring because the trigger return was decoupled from the disconnector. I could set a safe disconnector weight and then lighten the trigger return to tweak the trigger weight. Currently, I don't worry so much about the perfect trigger weight... I worry more about safe sear and disconnector weight and I don't notice an extra couple of ounces more or less after the timer goes off. That said, I wouldn't take out a perfectly good 4 leaf spring and replace it with a 3 leaf spring just because it's a 4 leaf spring.
  2. Hmmm.... Just verified it: https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=12535 If that doesn't work, just google "brownells 2 1/2 lb trigger job". Should be the first result. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. I was also concerned about my eyelashes smudging the Rx inserts, so went with the cheapest pair of Rx shooting glasses I could find: Wiley X Saber Advanced. The glasses themselves, with 3 lenses, cost less than $65 locally. The Rx insert was from sportrx.com and was $165 (shipped) and that included expedited shipping. The insert is far enough from my eyes that my eyelashes don't smudge it at all. After over a year of weekly shooting with the Wiley X Saber Advanced, the only "problems" that I have with them are: It is still a pain to swap out the lenses. I ended up buying a 2nd set of glasses (another 3-lens pack) and have the vermillion lens in one frame and clear in the other frame. I like the vermillion in bright, outdoor conditions and clear for indoor shooting. I should have purchased the anti-reflective coating on the Rx insert. I did get the anti-fog, which seems to work pretty well, but I get a lot of reflections between the lenses, esp with the clear lenses and bright indoor lights. Wearing a hat helps a LOT, but I'd still prefer to have had the anti-reflective coating.
  4. Get a paint pen of a contrasting color (silver, gold, bronze and copper seem to work well against most finishes) and put some small witness marks on the screws, mounts, battery covers, etc so you can instantly tell if they've moved.
  5. I have both 9mm (spacer) mags and 38SC (no spacer) mags that I run in my 9mm 1911 with zero problems. I shoot 9mm minor with typical 9mm COAL, so they're not loaded long, either.
  6. I do them for myself: https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=12535
  7. I had the same issue. What I did was to take a bit of skateboard tape and put one little square on the front of the round locking lever and one on the back. That was enough additional grip so that I could depress the lever with one hand.
  8. The photo @Postal Bob posted is where I started with my SWC load development, but they wouldn't feed 100% in either of my twin 1911s. I ended up at 1.200", which looks like this: No more feed issues. YMMV
  9. I concur with everything SteveRA said, but would like to add that you may find certain lengths feed better or worse than others. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. In general, I would say, "yes"... but sometimes there isn't a noticable difference. I had 180gr TC bullets that would feed in all but 2 guns. Switching to 200gr RN solved the feeding issues (my bullet vendor didn't have 180gr RN), but the 170gr SWC bullets that I use now feed even better. Buy a sample pack (or 100) of the various bullets that you want to try, seat them in dummy rounds at various lengths, remove the recoil spring and guide rod from your pistol and hand cycle them. You'll feel which ones feed better than others. I've heard this referred to as "Enos tuning". If you have 1911s or 2011s, you may need to remove the disconnector, also, as the bump of the slide engaging the disconnector can feel like a hiccup in feeding. Not sure if this is true of other guns, though. Once you have the length, work your load up like normal to verify velocity, accuracy and check for pressure signs. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. I used Alma Cole's method and really liked the results: The only thing I didn't like was how "shiny" and light the grit was, so I masked everything off and hit it with some matte black spray paint: There's no sign of the paint coming off, so I'd imagine you could paint it any color you like. It may wear off from the high spots, so if you paint it white or some other contrasting color, it may show through. Come to think of it, that may be a really interesting look! BTW, the XDm frame is a serial numbered part (I don't like making permanent changes to serial numbered parts) and I wanted to build up the grip a bit, so the grit is actually epoxied to some 3" heavy duty heat-shrink tubing.
  12. After running 180gr coated LFP bullets for about 5 years, I ran 200gr coated LRN bullets for a year or so. They were okay for local matches where the longest shots are usually within 10-15 yards, but the ballistics weren't that great with the distances that I was seeing at Area matches and Nationals. The drop was a little too much for my taste and, as mentioned above, the slide cycling felt slower. I definitely wouldn't have liked the drop with 220gr bullets, that's for sure. Instead of going back to the 180gr bullets, I tested out some 155gr coated LRN and 170gr coated LSWC. I chose the 170gr LSWC and have been very happy with the results. I don't plan on ever changing to anything else.
  13. My XDm 5.25 in 40 S&W won't cycle minor (133 PF) ammo reliably with the 16 lb recoil spring I use for major PF ammo (171 PF). It will stovepipe every 2-3 rounds. It's 100% reliable with minor PF ammo with a 14 lb recoil spring, though!
  14. When mine broke, I was able to cock the striker, but it wouldn't drop and I zeroed the stage. I pulled the gun apart at the safe table, didn't see an issue, reassembled the gun and finished the match. I disassembled the slide at home and, after I tapped out the pin to pull the striker, I saw a "large" shard of metal, about 1/16" wide x 3/8" long, now laying on the gun cleaning mat. A few seconds of searching found the donor part, which was the rest of the striker retaining pin. For me, I was resetting the striker so I had a realistic first trigger pull. My XDm was my only competition pistol and my trigger control was lacking. Since I couldn't get the full trigger on every pull, I wanted it on at least the first pull since my grip was firming up at the end of the draw. Now I reset it because it's what I do (habit), not necessarily because I think it currently has any benefit. But, all of my XDm slides have the upgraded striker retaining pin, so I don't think about it at all, let alone worry about it.
  15. I used to use a Dawson 0.090" front sight but am now a fan of the Brazos Micro Dot http://www.1911store.com/lightningrodmicrodotkimbernovak.aspx The Micro Dot is 0.100" wide with a 0.040" recessed fiber. The sight is thin without being too thin (too much light on the sides) and the dot is big enough to acquire quickly but small enough that it is not distracting. I use the Micro Dot in conjunction with a Kensight adjustable rear with a 0.135" notch. When I tried the Manny Dot, it was just too skinny for the rear sight notch that I have on my guns. I switched to Brazos front sights after my Dawson front sights kept breaking.
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