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Found 17 results

  1. Looking for anyone who has had a slide racker installed on their Steelmaster. I tried Dan Cheely; but they no longer offer that service. Thanks for any input.
  2. Any wheelgunners out there know Mark with Pinnacle? I have been trying to reach him and cannot get him on the phone or get a return call from him. Any information would be appreciated.
  3. I am sure this has come up before, but I wanted to see if anyone knew of a smith or barrel maker capable of making what I am looking for. Essentially, I want a threaded barrel for my TS orange. No one makes this, though I believe it is possible to accomplish. As far as I understand it, the barrel width and engagement with the bushing would not be impacted by extending the barrel past this point and threading it. So the problem then is a barrel long enough to accomplish this as the stock TS barrel is 5.2" in length. Enter Novo Precision. http://www.novoprecision.com/products/pistol-barrel-blanks/ They can make a custom barrel blank at up to 7" in length, which is more than the size needed. What I am looking for is a smith or barrel shop willing to take custom orders, and has the capability to machine the breech, chamber, feed ramp, barrel taper etc. on a blank from Novo. Before the suggestions come in, I will let you know where I have already asked: CZ Customs and Cajun Gun Works. The former could not lose the production time due to retooling to do it, and the latter said they do not make their own barrels in house. So since Stuart and Micah don't have the ability right now to do this, is there anyone out there who does? I am open to any / all suggestions if you feel the smith is competent or has previous experience with custom barrels. Especially if they have experience with CZ barrels. Thanks all!
  4. Does anyone know of a gunsmith who can or has installed a full length dust cover on a short dust cover model ? I am serious in the pursuit of having this done to a Caspian widebody!!!!
  5. Hi guys, Hoping someone can chime in and help steer me in the right direction here...Shot a little indoor match last night (4 stages) and had several light strikes/hammer falls on each stage. This is my match gun, barely has 1K rounds through it. I have never had this happen with this pistol (practice gun was a different story) so i want to get this squared away before my next match. Here is my current set up: Ammo: Blue Bullets 125g Winchester small pistol primers Vectan BA 9.5 powder OAL @ 1.125 +/- Mixed range brass Pistol: Stock barrel reamed to SAMI spec by Patriot Defense PD BOLO (fitted with the help of PD) 10lb recoil spring 15.5 PD hammer spring PD optimized trigger return spring PD optimized sear spring PD optimized firing pin spring Extreme firing pin (polished) Extreme one piece sear (polished) Extended firing pin block Stock plunger (polished) Stock plunger spring Titan hammer (base and holes polished as instructed) All applicable internals polished for smoother action/lighter trigger pulls, but nothing too crazy (I do not have trigger pull weights to disclose unfortunately) I case gauge every single round i load before matches as well as practice, and this time was no different. I'm not concerned about crazy light trigger pull weights, etc. I set this gun up with the intention of 100% reliability at matches. This is the first and only time she has behaved this way so my initial reaction was a bad/hard batch of primers but I'm not fully bought into that idea yet... I haven't changed a single thing over the past several matches where she ran 100% with this exact set up (ammo included) Thanks in advance for any help/advice you fellow shooters can offer. -Chase
  6. I am new to the forum and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation on a reliable gunsmith to mill my STI Steelmaster for a slide racker.
  7. Hey guys.. looking for someone to lift my welder and open up my loading port in southern cali. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks!
  8. Let me preface all of this with a little explanation of how I shoot. I am NOT a "slapper" I am a "rider" when it comes to pulling the trigger. What I mean is that my finger NEVER completely loses contact with the trigger shoe except when I am finished shooting and moving to the next array, etc. When I intentionally slap the trigger on my gun the problem doesn't happen. This post will be to educate and perhaps someone can share a similar experience and provide answers. Gun In Question STI Edge in 40sw The original problem. During rapid fire (targets 10yds and closer) my hammer was falling to the half cock intermittently with no explanation or consistency. Original assumption was this was simply something incorrect with the sear/hammer. Keep in mind these were factory STI internals. To give you an idea of my shooting level I am in upper B class and can shoot a bill drill under 2 sec everytime. I have a smith install an extreme engineering sear and hammer, disco, along with SVI safeties. I also installed a JEM grip safety myself and blended it to the gun in this same time period. After this I am thinking the hammer problem will be gone. The trigger job is excellent and I am very happy with everything. The gun starts doing the same thing before, hammer to half cock under rapid fire. I take the gun to another smith under recommendation from a friend. He fits and installs a complete new SVI trigger group along with a new trigger bow and realizes the gun is doing the same thing. Note here that I am able to replicate the hammer follow with a dry gun and when I show him how I do it he is able to test it himself in the same way. After the smith is fighting to get the gun working for 3 months I go to pick it up from him. Here is how he describes the problem. As soon as the shot breaks I am letting the trigger out to prep the next shot before the slide can even make it to the rear completely. Because of this I am unloading the tension on the center leg of the sear spring by holding the trigger in just the right spot. When the slide reaches its stopping point the only thing holding the sear in place is the left leg of the sear spring. The inertia from the slide bottoming out is enough to unload the left leg of the sear spring. Therefore, the sear "bounces" just enough to allow the hammer to fall and it catches on the half cock as the slide returns to battery. His solution. First step remove all and I mean ALL pretravel so that when I rest my finger on the trigger there is no way for me to prep it and unload the tension on the center leaf. There was so little pre travel that the hammer was falling from half cock when I squeezed the trigger. Not good so I did give the trigger a little pretravel to fix that and because it was quite odd/difficult shooting a trigger that had zero take up and I was able to do so without causing the original problem to re surface. Second step set a very positive angle on the sear (see picture below). This was to keep the sear from being as likely to bounce out of the hammer hooks from what I remember. Next step was to adjust the sear spring so the majority of tension was on the sear and very little on the center leg for pretravel/reset. Now I give kudos to the smith because he did what I asked and this fixed the issue. The result however, was the oppostie of what I would call a glass rod break trigger. After I shot the gun a little I decided I just couldn't shoot smoothly like this. I removed the sear spring the smith installed and left it as is in case I needed to go back. As I mentioned I also put a little pretravel back into the trigger so I could time the break better. I tweaked the other spring to the way it was with the first trigger job. Roughly just over 2lbs I would guess. I shoot the gun and still no hammer follow issue. However, now it seems I am stuck with a trigger with terrible creep and a snappy break. I am literally having to jerk the trigger to get it to break all at once. I only put 20rds through it before I decided I would not be able to shoot it this way. Does this mean I am doomed from shooting 1911/2011s with lighter triggers? Or at least until I completely change how I shoot? OR has anyone ever experienced this and found a way to solve it? Would an open gun 2011 have the same problem?? I am thinking have a normal factory trigger job (3-4lbs) and leave most of the pretravel out. Maybe that will be reliable and still allow a decent trigger. Another option to try is maybe a much lighter slide and lighter recoil springs, but that is expensive and who knows if it will work. The last option is to sell the gun and switch to another gun type. I really don't want to do this as I really enjoy shooting hi cap divisions and the 2011s shoot the smoothest/flattest easily for me. Also I would be taking quite a loss after what all I have invested into the 2011 game. I don't really expect any solid answers as this seems to not be a very common problem. Hopefully someone out there is at the beginning of my same problem and this helps them. I will add that every 1911 I have picked up so far I can cause this hammer follow issue in dry fire. I haven't shot enough in live fire to see if that's the case. I even did it to my gun while I was standing in the smith's shop, albeit it isn't something I could do everytime and can't do at all in live fire with my gun.
  9. I have a Gen 3 G34 with at least 60k rounds through it. Almost all of those rounds have been minor rounds. I'm now starting to see about 10% or more of my rounds tumble when I haven't cleaned my barrel for a couple thousand rounds or so (a recent development). - Never was a problem before. When I clean it, they stop tumbling for a bit. Before cleaning there isn't any noticeable buildup or burrs. I would think it could be my reload, but my son shoots the same ammo and quantity I do, on the same cleaning interval, in his Gen 4 G34 without this issue. Is it time to replace the barrel? How can I tell if the barrel is worn out? Thanks
  10. I am asking for any recommendations or referrals for gunsmiths currently building or working on Caspian HiCap pistols for USPSA/IPSC Open class. The owner of the shop I manage has offered to purchase both a Caspian HiCap frame and slide for me to build an Open pistol. It will be used to shoot action matches under the shop name for advertising and as a gift So, are there any gunsmiths out there specializing or accepting "parts provided" builds for Caspian frame Open guns? Any advice or help is appreciated.
  11. Can anyone recommend a CZ gunsmith in the SF bay area? I need help installing (and polishing parts, etc) a CGW pro-package for an SP-01. Alternatively, if someone in the area is a CZ "expert"or experienced, I could try to install it myself while you watch over my shoulder and advise. Thanks! Sergio
  12. Looking for some recommendations to get my slide milled for an optic. Any information will be appreciated! Thanks Jeff
  13. Stoddard's Range and Guns, the only gun store and range in the City of Atlanta is looking to hire a full time gunsmith to handle an array of guns. We are in need of someone with experience and will provide armorer assistance. We have a large population surrounding our Atlanta store and we have another store in Douglasville GA. The area has been underserved and is in need of a great Gunsmith.
  14. Hello to everyone. I am brand new to this forum. It was recommended to me today by a gunsmith I was trying to hire. I have opened the first range and gun store ever to be permitted in Atlanta GA. I am looking for advise on how to find and hire a great gunsmith to operate at our new store in a metropolitan area in excess of 6 million people. I apologize if I am not using the forum correctly as I am truly new to this type of communication. Any help or interest will be much appreciated.
  15. hi everyone, hopefully the collective knowledge of brian enos forums can help me out with my shotgun issue. I've been shooting a remington 1100 for my 3-gun matches. I've opened the loading port, added dave's metal works easy loader, and added capacity to 10+1 its been a great shotgun that will run light loads and heavy loads perfectly... until recently. the interceptor latch broke and so i replaced it with a new part. now, the shotgun double feeds intermittently. it appears that the interceptor is not catching the shell as it rushes by. this new part is not contoured like my original part (which was contoured along the lines of the loading port that i opened up). i would love it if a gunsmith who was familiar with 3-gun and familiar with remington 1100's had a chance to take a look at my shotgun and tune it properly for competition. thanks to anyone who might be of help and who might be able to point me in the right direction. location is santa barbara California.
  16. Hi Everyone, This is my first post so I apologize if it is a little out of the norm or does not follow specific guidelines. I am somewhat new to USPSA shooting with a few competitions under my belt and I have decided this is the sport for me and I am ready to take this to the next level. I am in the designing and planning stages of building a limited gun from the ground up and need some help. I really don't know where to start. 5" or 6" gun? sight tracker barrel? Ignition parts? Narrow frame or wide frame? ramped or unramped? what sights? I would like to hear what has worked for everyone out there and what has failed. I came very close to purchasing an STI Apeiro but decided I could spend the same amount of money to have a fully customized gun built exactly how I want. I am definitly heading down the road of a 2011 frame with the island barrel, but to be honest that is about as far as I've made it. I look forward to everyones responses, after reading through this forum a bit, I'm sure I'll have some very opinionated replies. Thanks guys and gals!
  17. Moved to Kingwood, TX a couple of years ago. Long time USPSA and 3G shooter. In need of a good Gunsmith near home. Any and all suggestions very appreciated. I do work downtown in the Galleria area, so anywhere in between would work as well.
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