BeerBaron

EGW is top notch parts to I'm not surprised they agreed to replace the hammer. the heat during PVD could have weakened it...

matt, check the pics. he has thumb rest.

unfortunately shit happens. this is a game. we will tend to push things to the limit when we compete. This game also has strict safety rules and when we push the limit and perhaps beyond we suffer a severe penalty which hopefully teaches us how to moderate our desire to push the boundaries a little. In the end no one was hurt and you'll probably spend a bit of time thinking about targets that approach the 180 or can be overrun etc. usually stage builders will add vision barriers to stop people being able to see a target from beyond the 180 but not always so we need to be cognisant of issues when we back up, or stop mid stride. the only way to take it is as a learning experience and move on. Nice that Dave Sevigny took time to give you the man equivalent of a hug. Sometimes we need one.

it's funny you mention that. I've heard similar things from GMs before including a vid of TGO where he said he aims for 'consistent 1.5sec reload'. I guess the key is consistency but I can't help but think sometimes they quote fairly conservative times. The other thing is what is a draw? is that to a 2 yard open target? or to a 25 yard partial? both are going to have different results if I crank out a .85 draw and first shot followed by a 15 split. generally when talking draws I assume we are talking hands by sides to an open target somewhere inside of 10 yards. For me thats a 1 sec or better goal on those. look at gooldy's vid running a 100% classifier. He's pulling a sub 0.80 draw and a sub 0.90 reload on both strings. if that's what it takes too run GM level classifier scores then presumably someone figured that's a GM level skill...

first question - what brand and type of primers are they? pressure that would turn a fed spp into a smeared mess will leave a CCI SRP looking brand new...

All you need is a tiger mk2 type bushing. Tandemkross for one will ship to you, or try brownells. They will too. You can order the mk2 volquartsen bushing through brownells. A washer is not a great solution.

Generally speaking if you want to shoot lighter bullets fast (i.e. Open gun) you want a slower twist rate. For heavier bullets at slower speeds a faster twist rate is desirable. There's a lot more to it but that's the very basic theory. Joe: yes I have 1:16 barreled gun as well as a 1:24 and have tried 1:32 as well. I'm by no means an expert on barrels but I can understand the theory of why the slower twist would be desirable with a short 115gn pill going 1400 fps. Im not sure what you mean by 'deflection' with rts2 at 25 yards? Do you mean a height over bore issue? Or some kind of parallax error? Id like to hear what you've found?

I also prefer the 3m 'safety walk' grip tape over the generic skate tape. One benefit is it doesn't shed nearly as much grit as the generic skate tape does. Some of them shed grit all over the place and you don't want any getting in the gun.. the 3m stuff also seems to have better adhesive on it.

For me there are a few key elements: must haves: titanium comp that works (there are a few good ones) 2-4 popple holes slide racker on the weak hand side which is fitted with ball detents for easy removal i also think a slower twist rate like a 1:24 or 1:32 is worthwhile. Steel grip (though this is user preference) cmore rts2 or deltapoint pro. The new mini dots are small, low and light. So mine would be either 4.5inch (imm length) or 5 inch (5.4inch barrel). Wide frame but cut short of being full length. 3 x 3/16 popple holes, decent titanium comp (cheely, sv, Eric's, binary etc). Cmore rts2 8moa on single sided mount. Racker retained with ball detents. Pt evo or sv steel grip. A nice trigger is a good thing too.

Just checking but you know you need a chrono right? Just loading up the rounds and shooting them won't yield much without a chrono to measure the velocity.

I wholeheartedly agree.

You'll need to use the 38 kit as the 9mm kit is designed around sti tubes with a spacer (shorter follower).

25 rounds is pretty drastic. I'm going to say the only way that can happen is a faulty slide or the slide was hitting the comp. it's impossible to tell from the pic but it looks to have clearance between slide and comp so the likely answer then is faulty slide. that sucks having put work into a build that now needs to be done again. Even if the slide is replaced free someone has to eat the cost of the fitting and machining.

They may have 3n38 for the same price? It comes in 4lb jugs too. 3n38 is slower burning than 3n37. The slower burning powder gives more gas and lower pressure spike. 37 to me feels snappier. It also burns hotter. I would say 37 is not a bad option for 9mm but for super 38 is the way to go. It was specifically made by vv for 38 super ipsc style open loads.

Thank the shooting gods my club buys the targets and patches in bulk and just gives them to members. I would hate having to buy, ship and store targets. I just grab what I need at the club. it's one of the things I pay my membership for. it is a private club with their own range though, not a public range or commercial range. I don't know why more clubs don't do it that way? It's so much easier for a club of a couple hundred people to buy in bulk for their members rather than every man for himself buying a 100lb stack of targets a few times a year. ok if they don't want to provide them free to members at least buy in bulk and on-sell at cost to members. thinking more about this I think actually my full years membership cost is 100% offset by the saving on targets. Not having ever had to buy them I had no idea what they cost. at $1 each + pasters I'm in front. bonus.

I know. I'm just here for the lols.

svi for one has had them for many years. they make a non functioning beaver tail. no grip safety action. PS I love the bruce gray hard tail mod. for anyone who wanted to retain a grip safety it will ensure it's not causing FTF issues. the problem is those with a high grip will be pushing the web of their hand upwards hard into the beaver tail portion which causes the grip safety to pivot enough that it will stop the trigger bar. it's a common issue. all my competition 1911/2011's are disabled and pinned but the gray bard tail would be an option if I needed to keep it functional for some reason.

to be fair he is already an experienced IDPA shooter and has shot 2 sanctioned IDPA matches and is a fully bonded IDPA safety officer. I say rock out!

jeezuz that thing must be loud and need a lot of powder with all 6 holes in the barrel! I've seen IMM's with 2, 3 and even 4 holes but I've never seen one using the full 6 holes including the 3 square holes with a comp as well. yikes!

I wonder why it doesn't come with the solid pin any more? That was a good uprgade to the trigger feel (removed heaps of play).

mike is on the right track. most "5inch" open guns are running a 5.4 or 5.5 inch barrel with a regular government slide. The IMM is basically a government slide with the front half inch chopped off. So the barrels in those are approx 5 inch to the crown as Mike pointed out. They are not really a common shape/size as they are effectively 4.5inch to the front lockup surface with around half an inch of threaded end to the crown. I 'think' your best bet will be Schumann as I don't believe SVI will sell either IMM slides or IMM barrels (as pointed out all their retail barrels are also non-AET).

yeah they are touch sensitive. to turn it on you don't have to push the button in at all. just touch your finger to it lightly. the Lucas oil is probably ok. I use a slightly thinner one for break in called battle born. https://www.amazon.com/Breakthrough-Advanced-Firearm-Cleaning-Technology/dp/B00U8WMV1Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1487894412&sr=1-2&keywords=breakthrough%2Bbattle%2Bborn&th=1&psc=1 it has a lot of bullshit about how special it is like all gun oils do. I won it off a prize table so thought I'd try it. It's very thin. looks as thin as water. but it lubes very well and given how tight the new gun is a nice thin oil is a good idea. opinion on using motor oil on guns is divided. I have used it before but even at $8 a bottle gun oil last such a long time the cost isn't an issue. even the little 2oz bottle will last more than a year even if you used it once a week... for $8 the battle born stuff is worth a try I think. see if you like it. it and Lucas extreme duty are pretty much all I use these days.

honestly for me all you need is: a bag of good patches (I like the gunslick brand ones) a rod a brass jag attachment (for use with the patches) a nylon brush head attachment a bronze brush head attachment one of the nylon brushes with a big head and small head one of the same as above but in bronze bottle of hoppes 9 bore cleaner oil of some kind bore snake is handy for quick cleans too some q tips for cleaning the lug area, barrel bed area and firing pin tunnel the plastic EGW/10-8 tool is also handy for getting into small spaces etc if you had to buy a kit to start with the gunslick pistol kit is not bad. the bore cleaner it comes with is good as is the oil and the patches. the rods are just rods like anyone else's. I do have the double alpha kit which is handy as it stores all the stuff neatly and folds open to a mat but it comes with heaps of bits you don't really need (stainless steel brushes for instance!). this is the DAA kit, not bad at $50USD atm including a bore snake. http://www.doublealpha.biz/combo-cleaning-kit-gun-rope

my other piece of advice is before taking it to the range strip it down, clean out the grease and lube it up with a very thin oil. lots of lube.

small tip on the RTS2 buttons. you don't have to push them hard at all. the lightest touch will activate them. I also didn't like that they aren't 'clicky' but just adjust brightness while looking at the dot and don't press them hard.