jstagn

Have a late 1950s Redfield (I think Olympic junior) sight, where is the best place to advertise this?? Thanks....

N320 best of that list. However Clays/claydot and e-3 are better for recoil control. E-3 is very clean.

I have the 5, the problem is that the slide is so highly polished, you have to really squeeze if you want to use the front serrations for racking the slide. So I would get more and smaller serrations. It also helps to keep the outside of the slide free of grease/oil.

Shot 30K + blue bullets in 40/9/45 uspsa/practice, not one failure, great product, great price......

So, to sum up. At the load make ready command, I load my CZ accu-shadow, rack the slide which cocks the hammer, lower the hammer with my weak hand/finger ALL THE WAY (no half cock) while pressing the trigger with my strong hand, and then holster or do I have to manually put the thumb safety on as you would with a 1911sa????

Best holster and best place to buy USPSA PRODUCTION legal holster for CZ accu-shadow???

Ranger Trace, how many rounds can you go before you need maintenance ie. sear/hammer on your 1.5# trigger?

I read somewhere on this forum that someone recommended Longshot because of the mild recoil. Has anyone tried this in 40 and how did it compare to what else you were using?? Seems like a slow powder according to the burn rate chart... Thanks....

Maybe the weather (temp, humidity) has changed????

For the 25yd. no time limit drill, do you use a dot or something to indicate the aiming point of just try to shoot the A zone?

Clipper is spot on.

Late model AET 5.4 SVI 200gr. blue bullets clays/claydot/E-3 and others. NO tumbling. OAL 1.208 crimp .420 (.421 max). Good (better than me) accuracy for USPSA.

Just ordered a new Vortex, comes with small caps to cover lens, should I get a scopecoat or some other full fabric cover for protection?

Like the torque seal option, I just use a marking pen to indicate if anything moved.

Once I am sure everything is set, crimp, seating depth, flair (bell) I use green locktite in the locking ring area because on rare occasions I have had the locking rings come loose. As Forrest stated, always double check everything after you change over. Its also not a bad idea to check everything once every couple hundred/thousand rounds just to be sure. I have complete change over kit including powder measure on a Dillion 650.....

Make sure the priming seating punch is screwed in tight...

Vit n320 or n310, clean, low recoil/smoke and meters well. On the expensive end, but when you consider over 2000 rounds per pound, price per round is cheap. I use 147 blue bullets.

Approximately how many 40 cases can you lube with 1 bottle of Dillon brand lube?

I tried several sear springs on my PARA p14-45 pro-custom, none worked, had to get a replacement from PARA at the time. Others were too short. Para cut the slot too low in the frame on my first frame and even there's would not work properly. They replaced the frame and the new slot was cut higher but still the most common springs were too short. They made up for it with a longer spring. My OLD para had a standard length so almost anyone's would fit. SOO, sold the new para ( too many MIM parts) and kept the old.

Of all the loads you tested, what is the softest shooting that makes PF???

Almost all their 40 is crimped as well as S&B, never heard of 9 crimped, except for NT and Military.

Noticed several posts of shooters using WST for .40 major with lead coated 200gr. bullets. Since this seems more available, just curious if anyone has done comparisons between Claydot/Clays and WST.

I adjusted the primer rod to hit the low primer buzzer, then I just turn off the case feeder and the primers run out the same time the cases run out, no extra anything. All it takes is to slide an empty piece of brass onto the primer rod (drill out the primer hole for a snug fit) and experiment where the correct position is. Once you are satisfied (try several times to make sure) then glue the brass in place. Now each time you hear the primer buzzer go off you simply turn off the case feeder and each will run out at the same time. Buy same size wood dowel rod and make one for each caliber you are loading. OR you can cut the plastic rod to do the same thing, but no going back with this method.

powder. primer and bullets... Or is that too obvious?

Thanks jakemaul, exactly the info I was looking for.