xrayfk05

For 9mm you only need to crimp just enough to take the bell out, if you do that you will not shave coated bullets. If you do you are crimping too much.

Fixed it for you

Where are you located? Outside of the US you cannot reach their site for whatever reason. Use a VPN or find another source. (or PM you e-mail and I will send it to you)

I tried the O ring a few days back and it worked like crap, I lubed it with regular oil and the shellplate was hard to advance and cases would not eject. Just tried it again but lubed with liquid lanoline and now it looks to work great, I have only tried a few cases so I have no idea about the longevity or how often to re-lube. This was with a #16 (.223) shell plate btw. As long as you are not sizing you can use the 9mm shell plate for .223 just as well btw.

In my experience Quickload can be very inaccurate if you go beyond it's "working" boundaries. To get some coated 124's chambered I had to shorten the round to 1.04" and loaded with 3.8 grains of Lovex D032 (AA #2) Quickload predicts near 80K PSI. At normal OAL's Quickload is spot on compared to the reloading tables. Rounds shot fine with no over pressure signs whatsoever, 130 power factor. (normal load would be 4.1 grains to get PF 130) And yes, normal SP primers. I got there by shooting them at a normal OAL in a gun that would handle them and shortening them step by step shooting over a Chrono. In your case I would start with say 3.5 grains and work up until you get your PF at that OAL, if you are not comfortable with that look for a different bullet.

Did you measure the diameter of the bullet? And with #3 you mean a bullet just dropped into the chamber?

Adding a bullet feeder to my 650 with case feeder did not bring me much throughput wise, it is very nice only to have to pull the handle though.

I have used both for pistol (9mm and .45) and the MR Bullet feeder die is just plain better, it just works. The Hornady one is too complicated, it works pretty well with FMJ bullets but with plated/coated or lead? Save yourself the aggravation and get the MR. I had to keep adjusting, cleaning and messing with the Hornady one until it was working again, the MR is just set it and forget it. The brand of press has no relevance to the brand of bullet feeder, it's all the same principle. A shell plate goes up, case receives a bullet, shell plate goes down I have no experience with any rifle bullet feeders btw.

Do you have the Reostat (speed) upgrade on it? Without it it was useless for me with it I loaded over 10K rounds at the moment without any flipped primers. (S&B, Magtech or Ginex) Or well, I had 1 flipped primer but I'm not sure if that was caused by the RF100.

Because it has been replaced by the Gempro 300 I have been using my Gempro 250 for close to 10 years now and it has always been reliable and repeatable. When I still used check weight to see if it was measuring correctly it always measured 5.00 or 5.02 for the 5 grain weight. I stopped doubting the scale a long time ago. Trickling directly into a pan on the scale can be tricky and sometimes it's faster to pick up the pan and set it back on to get a reading but that's not what I used the scale for anyway. If I take the scale from my warm living room to a cold, moist garage the scale will drift for a few minutes until it is warmed up. You can still use the scale as long as you zero it before you weigh. Before I bought the Gempro I used a cheap $20 electronic scale and that was a waste of money.

I'll take that one In my garage it is about 70% to 80% humid, last time I left powder in the hopper for 2 days the weight thrown increased. The muzzle velocity did not change though. I always empty the hopper and the QD makes that an easy process, removing the toolhead of the 650 is just fine until you add a bullet feeder.

Thicker coating on the good bullets? No idea, I had the same thing happen with 9MM plated bullets in my Infinity with AET barrel. I shot thousands of them with excellent accuracy at 25 meters and all of a sudden I had a lot of misses and tumbling bullets, even at 10 meters. It took me a few weeks to work out it was a new batch of bullets causing the issue, back to the old batch and all was good. Never buying that brand again. (LOS bullets). Bullets worked fine in a "normal" barrel btw.

Have one as well, when you get it setup correctly by deburring all sharp edges and some more fiddling it usually takes about 15 seconds to load a tube. That is excluding swirling the primers to get them right side up. I had a clip of it on youtube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha2FdHldkZY however I found out that the VP work s better if you keep the bulk of the primers on the other side of the VP so only 2 or 3 primers are pushing down on the one going down the hole if it makes sense. MY VP is going south fast due to bad connections and not working very well anymore so I recently bought a 2nd had RF100 which is working excellent so far. Not a single flipped primer and takes < 1 min filling a tube without any manual intervention. b.t.w. I don't think the VP is available any more unless you can find some old stock.

See appendix D3: Classic Division. There is no maximum barrel length but the gun must fit the box: A handgun in its ready condition (see Section 8.1), but unloaded and with an empty magazine inserted, must fit wholly within the confines of a box which has internal dimensions of 225 mm x 150 mm x 45 mm (tolerance of +1 mm, -0 mm). Note that all magazines must comply. 15. The handgun is placed inside the box (and ultimately removed) by the competitor with the slide parallel to the longest side of the box. Rear adjustable sights may be slightly depressed during insertion but the slide must be fully forward when the gun is seated inside the box.

Just e-mail Dillon and they will send you a couple of new ones free of charge. And don't forget to check the box, the dies come with a couple of extra e-clips.

Without the cover on you are measuring the air pressure as well as what is on the scale.

Do you have the version with the Rheostat? (The knob in the blue housing to adjust the speed). You can buy it from Dillon and it made mine work 100% with S&B primers, "only" loading 3000 rounds so far but no jams or flipped primers whatsoever.

One of the cases is expanded with the MBF and the other one with the Hornady PTX, both had the bullet fed by the MBF die. In my experience both work equally well and both will keep the bullet from tipping during indexing and keep the bullet mostly straight until seated. It's a 147 grain .356 coated bullet (I think the left one is the Hornady, I think I could use less expansion on the Hornady but it doesn't bother me)

How would 5.7.6 even apply? The firearm didn't fail and is not unsafe.

Less felt recoil with heavier bullets is only true if you are trying to achieve a certain PF, for all other scenarios a lighter bullet will recoil less. Try the 115 grain with any fast powder and find out how much you need to cycle reliably. For really soft loads try a 95/100 grain bullet with 3.8 ish grain of a fast powder. (Check your manual to be safe )

Loaded on a Dillon 650 by any chance?

I use (non chlorinated" brake cleaner to clean off Dillon case lube, drop the rounds on a towel, spray and rub. Clean rounds. Only doing it because you get very dirty hands otherwise, I don't think it really matters for pistol rounds.

I would love to say the SVI makes me a better shooter but I am not sure Trigger is a lot better, the steel grip fits my hand a lot better and the weight makes recoil easier as well so I probably do shoot better with the SVI. $5K worth better, not in 5000 years Would I buy the SVI again? Absolutely, without a doubt. I would say all this matters a lot more for beginner/novice shooters than for shooters with more experience. When I just started I heavily preferred the 147s in 9mm, now I shoot both 124 and 147 and it's pretty much a wash.

I wanted to start with a Shadow 1 but than I got to shoot a Para ordnance 18.9 and that just felt right so I decided on a 2011 in 9mm. Ordered an Infinity for as my first gun and bought an older Para 18.9 to tide me over while waiting for the Infinity. Did a "triggerjob" on the 18.9, mainly removing the series 80 safety "features" and adjusting the sear spring, never did anything to the SVI other than clean it. Both guns were/are (Sold the para) dead nuts reliable, only malfunctions I ever had on the Para were self induced, mostly ammo related. The SVI was a bit picky magazine wise but after finding a few mags that work properly it is 100% reliable as well.