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xrayfk05

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Everything posted by xrayfk05

  1. Way off topic and you'd be better off doing a search or starting a new thread. That said, I would not recommend a press like that for anyone shooting 9mm and the like. With those S-L-O-W does not even begin to describe it, I'd get a Square Deal B if 9mm is all you reload and you want to keep costs down. Do a search on Youtube so you at least have an idea what you are getting into.
  2. That is one of those on which you cannot change the insert right? What works for me on my Racemaster holster is cleaning it out with brake cleaner (non-chlor) drying it thoroughly and liberally applying Dry Lubrication Spray while working the insert up and down. I use WD-40 specialist, but others will work I guess. For me this is a last ditch effort to try before throwing it out, kinda done with DAA holsters. They work great at the start but not so much in the long run. (Note: I have no experience with the latest generation, but that will not happen either)
  3. Don't we? It's not like I can tell my boss I'll work a few hours extra this week so I can pay for my ammo. And even if I could what I earned what be nowhere close to the savings of reloading, even if it's "just" 9mm. I can reload 1000 rounds in an hour, including case prep, which saves me 75,- per 1000. Let me know where I can get a job that pays 75.- an hour after tax Even if components were more expensive or of it took me twice as long it would be nowhere close.
  4. Whether 15 per 1000 is acceptable or not is up to you to decide, for me it would not be. If the alternative was hand picking them it might be. As I said before my RF100 hardly ever has an upside down primer, no matter the brand or SP/LP. 1 or 2 in a 1000 if that. The Pal filler being quicker is a bogus argument, the only time I spend with the RF100 is dumping primers and emptying the tube. The time in between doesn't count since I don't have to do anything. The RF100 is infinitely faster if you only count the time you yourself spend.
  5. I spread my loaded rounds on an old towel, spray with brake cleaner and rub them a bit. Works like a charm.
  6. Maybe the mags got updated, but with the original magazines the S2 does not fit the box. Lower/smaller basepads are indeed the solution. I have seen people getting moved to open on multiple occasions, and that is with very few S2 standard shooters and with most matches having a minimal gear check.
  7. Correct, and if you run a stock S2 in Standard you get moved to open. Box magazines are too long for standard, I have seen that a few times so just throwing it in here.
  8. 1) not entirely sure, but I think not allowed 2) no problem, double action has to be a 5# pull though. 3) No problem as long as they match the profile and contour of the OEM panels. 4) no.
  9. I have used both, my FA wore out so I needed a replacement. When/if you get the FA running well they both work exactly the same, only difference is the PAL filler works great out of the box whereas the FA needed some work. I also expect the Pal Filler to outlast the FA by miles. The Pal Filler is build like a tank, the FA is a cheap piece of plastic.
  10. I would not be surprised if they were struggling, they are still selling their old tech with some minor updates. When my original Pro Chrono with Bluetooth adapter died (it fell, i didn't shoot it. Honest*) I replaced it with a LMBR + bluetooth adapter. Same price, but no hassle with setting up lighting or diffusers. Just turn it on and plop it down, work great on indoors ranges. Same with the timers, only the most expensive one has BT and they all look pretty chunky. (And still a 9V battery? Give me a break) I have used several of their products and I have always like them and their support was pretty good back than. It's a shame really. *the muzzle blast pushed it off the table
  11. I think mine came with some spart parts including a motor so chances are slim you'll need a backup unit.
  12. @terrydoc as per the proposal: 15. A handgun in its ready condition (see Section 8.1), but unloaded and with an empty magazine inserted or empty cylinder closed, must fit within the confines of a box which has internal dimensions of 225 mm x 150 mm x 45 mm (tolerance of +1 mm, -0 mm). Note that all magazines must comply. The box must have a cut out in one side to cater for an optical/electronic sight.
  13. This is why I had mine replaced whick fixed the issue. 9mm, round count unknown.
  14. Armanov makes some good stuff, I have received a new station #1 locator from Dillon under warranty though. Cases would get hung up on it and they sent me a new one free of charge.
  15. The one time I tried a SVI magazine in a Bul it was near impossible to remove, so yeah No idea what type of Bul, but a plastic grip.
  16. Having shot a 2011 with a steel grip I will never go back to plastic, it just doesn't feel right. That is for 9mm minor and certainly for .40 major.
  17. Even though racker may be technically allowed the gun has to fit the box which is only 1.77" high Personally I have never seen a racker on a standaard gun.
  18. Apples and oranges, with the Pal Filler you have to get all primers same side up and hold it while it is filling a tube. With the RF100 you just dump primers into the bowl and I don't care how long it takes a minute. I bought my Pal Filler from http://www.armeriapatria.it/ and IIRC the make them in batches so they might become available again. You could shoot them an e-mail to check. I think Sarge posted a Facebook page or e-mail adres of the maker of the Pal Filler somewhere. You could also take a look at the DAA PRIMER-PRO Collator, same price range as the Pal Filler but hands-free. It does have some quirks like most DAA products but most are solved or have a work-around. I would NOT recommend the DAA Primafill at all though.
  19. I wonder if any has used S&B SR primers in their pistols, they apear to be as hard as a rock. Even a #20 mainspring in the 2011 is not enough fora 100% ignition rate. The same combo hardly makes a dent in some Murom SRM primers, while some woirk just fine.
  20. It's a stab in the dark than, 2 most important things (IMO) get it level and make sure the stabilizer plate is correct and tight. Tight horizontally, the space between the tip of the plate and the wall of the RF100. A primer should just be able to pass, no more.
  21. Do you have the reostat upgrade on it? If not that would be the first thing I would do. It made mine from being unusable to 1 or 2 upside down primers per 1000, both SP en LP. (With Ginex, S&B, FIoccho, Magtech and Murom) You can still decap and re-use upside down primers, so nothing lost there but some time.
  22. I always have the sneaking suspicion that it is just brake cleaner with a fancy name and price tag. Main ingredients are the same as far as you can see on the label anyway.
  23. No-one can give you any advice if you don't mention the caliber and the bullet weight. But I guess you helped yourself? Also what is SP? Sport Pistol?
  24. The sizing ring which sizes the entire case has a fixed diameter, what you set the crimp to has no relevance. If brass thickness*2 + bullet diameter exceeds the diameter of the sizing ring the bullet gets swaged causing all sorts of accuracy problems. Not so apparent on 9mm since it is a tapered round, but with .40S&W a coated bullet will be loose in the case after using the FCD. (Which you can "fix" applying setting a heavy crimp with said FCD) In my opinion the FCD is a tool which you should only use if you know what you are doing and for general reloading should not be needed.
  25. A G34 Too racy? The barrel is simply too long. (over 5")
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