xrayfk05

No, it just doesn't matter unless you are seriously overdoing it. Especially with mixed brass. Bell enough not to shave lead, crimp enough to function/fit the gauge. I usually disassemble a completed round so see how much crim I ended up with and adjust if needed.

9.3 grain 3N38, 124 Also Pro RN, 32.5mm OAL get me to 165'ish wth an older STI. (Just comped, not ported) I mainly use Lovex D37.1 which needs 10.8 grains with the same components as above for 162 PF. For matches 162PF is a bit too close for comfort but I don't shoot them in open. Geco brass can be had for 25 cents a piece from Luxembourg, that includes shipping. I don't know how Geco brass hold up since I have only reloaded it 2 or 3 times so far. Ordinary SP primers btw.

Why? Nothing we do requires the precision name brands (mitu, starret etc) offer over decent cheap callipers. In fact most decent cheap callipers will read the same as the expensive brands and only advantage more expensive ones have is battery life. (No joke, expensive ones turn off, cheap ones only turn off the display but keep draining the battery) Assuming you have digital ones, if you have analogue ones buy a set of decent cheap callipers.

If there is no position dictated start position is facing downrange, as in facing downrange. Whether it is enforced or not depends on the level of the match and the RO. If there is a start position briefed you are free to look where you want. (unless otherwise specified ofc) 8.2.2. : The competitor assumes the start position as specified in the written stage briefing. Unless otherwise specified, the competitor must stand erect, facing downrange, with the handgun loaded and holstered, and arms hanging naturally by the sides (see Appendix E2). I guess you could argue if facing means looking/the face, the torso or both.

No Shortcuts, ie. leaving the shooting area and entering elsewhere to save time. Jumping is allowed as long as you don't set foot outside the shooting area. Berms are off-limits, no bagging/unbagging holstering of weapons there. Default starting position is standing relaxed and erect facing downrange, arms naturally by your side. Not just wrist below belt. That's all I can think off of the top of my head.

Hmm, in the details they say 1050 fps from 3.1" and in the specs they say 1050 fps from 4". Your guess is as good as any.

Does not surprise me, both Hornady and Dillon use the same shell plate for 9mm and .38 Super. (Or actually the entire conversion kit)

Classes and training are great, it is a lot easier if someone tells you what you can improve on and how rather than finding it out yourself. Practice does not make perfect, it makes permanent! In other words you need to practice right. That said, if you don't train and only shoot once a week you can take all the classes you can find but it will not help you much. You will need to train on and practice the things you learned at the classes, otherwise it is just wasted money. (Classes can be fun though, that can be reason enough to take one) I would never take a $3000,- class and certainly not a 5 day one. 5 days is just too long to stay focused and either you get overloaded with info or it's a lot of repetition which you can do yourself for free. I'm sure there are other options than just dropping 1000's of dollars on a single class, $500,- get you 8 hours of one-on-one time with Steve Anderson for example and I am sure there are other trainers that do the same. And that training will be specifically tailored to you. There is also the option of a videocall or a video analysis for $50 to $100.- (Again at Anderson, but I think Tom Castro and Ben Stoeger have something similar)

I do wonder how you decided on the RL1100? You are only loading 1 to 2 K rounds a month, that's 1 to 2 hours on a 750 and the RL1100 will not add much. (Unless you need the swaging) If you can afford it, go for it but there is a lot you can do with the extra money spend. (Get a 750 for 9mm and a 550 for 223 for example )

Snug up the nut on the Lee die a bit more to prevent it from moving so easily. The spring on the Dillon die does not prevent breaking pins, it's supposed to prevent primers from getting pulled back into the case after depriming. Ironically enough most people having issues with primers getting pulled back are using Dillon dies.

I see, thanks for clearing that up. Level 2s are the main match you see over here and mostly 2/2/2 unless there are more than 6 stages.

You might want to explain that a bit for us non-uspsa shooters, basically you are saying you don't have to reload for short courses. In USPSA you don't have to reload for short or medium courses. In IPSC even standard has to reload on medium courses.

I don't think mag capacity has anything to do with it, keep in mind IPSC has been 15 rounds for production for years and for standard about 20 rounds of 9mm / 18 .40 S&W, depending on what fits in the box. I don't know any European country having a < 20 rounds mag limit for handguns, some have a 20 round max. rule but that only affects open. (Or a rare 9mm. standard magazine ) Production Optics follow the same rules,. max 15 rounds per magazine.

I also think the failsafe rod is a pain in the behind, but that is easily replaced with the old setup. Bind the 2 moving "lips" together with a zip tie, the 2 springs needed are still available for a few bucks. Maybe that will at least solve part of you problem? I am using both the LnL AP and the 650 and I can't say I have ever noticed any difference with regards to the powder measure. I do admit being able to just change the metering insert on the Hornady is just genius.

That's what I thought, but that set screw is steel with a brass tip/insert.

Without knowing the primer brand it's hard to say anything, but some strikes seem pretty marginal. Any new (to me) 2011 I buy get's a new #19 hammer spring so I know it will light off everything I throw at it. (And than it still does not ignite some hard rifle primers) Factory spring on racy guns usually are not that strong, strong enough but no more. -edit- That is for Small primers, large primers do not seem to need as hard a spring and #15 will be more than enough.

Wet tumbling for a few hours is fine as well, every now and than a round finds itself between my spent cases and get wet tumbled for 2 hours. So far they all worked just fine. (Pistol ammo only)

Had the same happen with my LnL AP, pretty surprising to have a 0.6" diameter rod break off. It looked like there was a small crack for a while and corrosion did the rest. (yay 70 to 80% humidity in my garage)

A blowback PCC will always have sooty(er) cases than guns with a lockup system like most pistols. In a blowback gun nothing keeps the bolt from moving apart from weight of the bolt, buffer and spring, as soon as you fire it starts moving. If you really want cleaner cases you could try a heavier buffer. (assuming it's and AR-like gun)

Makes me wonder if some patent expired so they can make a copy-of and also why they developed another primer filler while they already have 2 on the market. Don't get me wrong I'm all for it, there are not a whole lot of primer fillers on the market and if it works well and is decently priced I may pick one up so I do no have to change over my RF-100 from SP to LP every so often. I'll wait for someone else to buy it first though DAA products always seem to go thru some sort of teething stage before they are workable. You only have to check the thread on the other 2 primer fillers.

The rules are different, so talking about both is at least confusing. Biggest difference, berms are off limits in IPSC.

I hope you can sift through all the advice regarding USPSA while your question was about IPSC.

I was obviously referring to the Mark7, not the 750. It happens a lot on Benos to just throw money at a problem, no matter the size of the problem. I agree entirely with buy once cry once, but no need to cry harder than needed.

Recommending a $2500+ press and expensive conversion kits for someone who loaded on a single stage for 20 years, only on the Benos forums. Seriously any progressive will be a massive upgrade, even a 550. (No matter how much I dislike the 550) Without knowing how many more rounds "higher volume" is it's hard to recommend anything. Any of the recommended presses will work for a few thousand rounds a month, LnL AP, Dillon 650/750 or even the 550. If you want to to faster/do more I would invest in a primer filler first, bullet feeder 2nd and only go for a more expensive/complicated press if I need the swaging. (assuming you buy a press with case feeder) Do keep in mind the 550 has some limitations if you decide to go that round, only 4 stations and no official case feeder

Were the bullets sized after coating? Otherwise that might be your problem. Also case gauges do not check for OAL, the only way to check OAL is your barrel. Every barrel and bullet combo can seat a different max. OAL. (Round bullet - Shorter OAL, pointier bullet - longer OAL. Usually )